BlackBoot

I have heard about the murphys soap for smoke, but forgot about that, thanks for reminding me. I don't have a steam cleaner, so I fill a small pump up garden sprayer with warm water, sunlight soap and some vinegar. Spray all over fabric and carpet surfaces, and use a scrub brush on the tough spots. Then I just shop vac it all out, and repeat if needed. Also I removed the seats and cleaned them out of the car, way easier to do it that way. And I find that spray penetrating oil works great for degreasing an engine bay, spray on a warm engine, let sit overnight and wash off the next day. Hope it doesn't damage any seals? None so far.

I would like to add an RX body kit if I can find one, and wrap the car in blue vinyl, to end up looking like this one.

Still looks clean,

this is my GL Coupe, It's in great shape very clean and same owner for 25 years. It has minor rust and some small dents and scrapes. It was a city car hardly ever driven, running poorly, terrible lifter tick, full of carbon. after some treatment in the fuel and oil then a hard drive on the highway the carbon is burned out now. Interior still smells like smoke even after steam cleaning, needs ozone treatment. all that I have done so far; -oil and filter change -fuel and oil conditioner flush -itallian tune up (drive at 4500 rpm for 30 minutes) -full steam detail inside -degrease engine compartment -removed loose rust -removed ugly blue pinstripes with auto body eraser -pressure washed underside and wheels to remove grime and grit -repaired and replaced small interior broken or missing trim parts still needs; -new axle -main pulley and belts (pulley broken, only one belt channel -steering dust boots look damaged -rust repair and body work -more steam cleaning -ozone treatment for smoke Wish list; -sweet sexy wheels -RX body kit -LSD of course -webber -new speakers and aux audio in mod to factory radio -convert to AWD (FWD 5spd now)

I found the coupe while looking for an engine for my wagon with the cracked block,(JB weld held for a year of rough driving) but after HG replacment can't get the heads torqued right because of the crack, still runs on 2 cyl. I got the car for $300 it's old enough for collector plates, but needs some bodywork and paint first. Link to the applicaton form. http://www.icbc.com/csDelPrd/Satellite?blobcol=urldata&blobheader=application%2Fpdf&blobheadername1=Content-Disposition&blobheadervalue1=filename%3D%22collector-status.pdf%22&blobkey=id&blobtable=MungoBlobs&blobwhere=1381376883172&ssbinary=true Can't have much fun with all stock and what's the car really worth to a collector? FWD no frills? Maybe an RX bodykit, and some performance enhancements?

I knew the coupes were rare, but how many were made, and are still out there? I heard somewhere only 2600 rx, were ever made?

I was thinking of removing the back hatch, and having a fabric cover made, Kinda looks like a brat with the hatch off. Removing the weight of the glass, and avoid breaking it, because it will be hella difficult finding a replacement. But this car is complete, and very clean, so I am thinking of just keeping it close to stock and getting collector plates, that will get some strange looks at the classic car meets. But If I'm going to restore this car, it needs sexy wheels. And I do have a 92 spfi wagon, I can put my DR in that.

Thanks Scott. I know the cross tube has been replaced, It would be nice if it's a 4wd. Have to crawl under for a look, dang this thing is low compared to a wagon. Also, are the front axles the same on a fwd or awd? The yard seems to charge more? Is the carb different on a fwd? Basicaly, what is different about this fwd carb 5 spd coupe, from the common awd wagon. This car is eligible for collector status and plates, here in British Columbia, also considering restoring to all OEM era correct and applying for collector plates? Wheeler vs. collector Any thoughts?

Here is what I'm Starting with. Only 130,000 KM (80,000 Mi) parked indoors, everything working and complete, tick of death, needs an axle and the steering dust boots are torn. this car has seen a lot of speed bumps and road debris. Bought from the original owner, only locally driven ect. The owner warned me about taking it on the highway, hadn't been in years he said. so carbonized. And now, after.. drove hard on highway, tick got louder. put half can seafoam in oil, half in 1/4 tank gas, drove for a day, drained and fresh oil and filter 10w30. Italian tune up, ? it worked !! ? drove at 4000 rpm in 4th gear, for 15 minutes. No tick! Front wheel drive, carb. I have a dual range trans and diff with moustache bar in storage, what other parts and mods am I looking for? other than the lift components I am familiar with.

here it is, upside down? whatever

But now I don't want to chop and buggy build this one, too good condition and low miles. I could even apply for collector plates, it over 25 years old, and If it's kept all original. So the wagon will end up being the buggy, or if I get a legacy.

Looking at the coupe I just bought, $300. Just taking the rear hatch off, it resembles a brat.

So I'm picking up an 86 GL 3 door coupe this week, It's FWD, I have a dual range and diff, and can get the rest of the driveline from the wrecker. But what bolts on and what does not? Do I have to fabricate anything?

There are lots of pre cut and bent cage kits for impreza, with all sorts of options. I think it would be worth the investment to get all the bent pieces, and fab the easy pieces? Approved cage parts, takes the guesswork out of engineering this project safely. Also saves time, instead of messing about with difficult bends and no pattern to work off, but i'm sure there are some free impreza cage plans out there somewhere?

http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?202315-Roll-cage-tube-specification-thread-MSA-amp-FIA-info This Impreza roll cage looks like a pretty good start for a buggy, along with a very cut down donor car

Here's a link to crawlers using these for exactly this! http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/techarticles/wheels/131_0707_cutting_brakes/photo_08.html And they are installed at the wheel.

This one from offroadingsubarus.com is cool, Like a legacy turned into a brat, http://offroadingsubarus.com/images/new_bratlifted.jpg

This is my idea.

How many brake lines are on the loyale? From under the hood that is, to the rear wheels?

Legacy is available and affordable, but the forester or outback parts are going on anyway, This is where "economy of effort" comes in. Start with the vehicle with most of the desired parts, think or what your time and effort is worth swapping and altering to fit, also paying for each part or group of parts. Donor car is the way to go, get the whole car for $500 Parts individually would come to way more. The base legacy is fine to start, but in the end I think it's better to pay a bit more and get the car that has the suspension your going to get anyway, already on, and working. I'm a renovation contractor by trade, old stuff always has expensive surprises.

I like the small platform the loyale provides, I can get down quad trails, and daily drive. I' d like to see more people out wheelin' and I thought I'd bring it up here, and try to find the most economical, economy of effort and capability in one package. I have 2 paths on this, one completly stripped buggy, and one saftey/road/emissions legal and daily driver capable, possibly pickup conversion? My main goal? Cheap, easy, legal and daily. I was introduced to the subaru Loyale through research, I was looking for a vehicle with comparable capabilities to the vehicle I drove on 3 overseas tours with the army. Volkwagen Iltis The Iltis was 15 years + in service when I joined, drove the hell out of those, they were retired 5 years ago,and now they go for at least $10,000 surplus beat to hell, I would never buy one for that price, I was the guy who beat em up. Enter subaru...

I'm up for it! I have lots of time but low on cash, started my own business this year. Lack of cash it a creativity motivatior. I assume that a forester or outback is ideal to start with?

Locking brakes off also, cool. So where to place the valves, can they be put into the joint between the steel lines and the rubberlines near each wheel? Or can they be under the hood? Are all 4 lines accesable under the hood? Fittings or adaptor types and size? So at each wheel if sufficiently placed and protected? Or under the hood? For the switches I'd like; lock On, lock Off and momentary 5 to 10 second on or off.

I've also learned that hot rodders have retrofit ABS and traction control, into early model vehicles. It would be quite simple to get an ABS unit from the wrecker, and control the solenoids directly without a computer controller. The abs pump would also alow push button wheel lock without pushing the brake pedal.