bhazard

I will probably do that, with silicone caulk. I think I want to replace the seal around he glass too. Do you know of a source for it?

Drain tubes are clear. Water appears to be leaking in under the tracks/rails. I found this guide (http://caverpilot.com/cars/how-to-remove-replace-sunroof-in-1991-subaru-legacy-and-stop-leaking-roof-or-headliner/) and proceeded to pull the entire assembly but the tracks appear to be riveted and spot welded to the pan instead of attached with screws like in the writeup. Is this a matter of drilling it all out or should I just silicone around the tracks? Has anyone else dealt with this issue?

Not looking for a big lift. Just a slight raise over stock. Main thing I *don't* want to do is crawl around in a muddy junkyard finding trailing arm brackets because I lifted too high and now my wheels are pulled too far forward.

Okay, basically my question was something like "How much can I lift it without needing to change more than just struts". I'll probably just retain stock ride height then.

97 Impreza L sedan. 127k miles, struts are all bad. Car bounces down the road. Car is bone stock, if I use 98-02 Forester struts instead of the ones that "belong" on the car, and otherwise keep stock springs and such, how much lift am I looking at? I've already used forester struts AND springs before to lift a 97 OBS. That also necessitated changing trailing arm brackets and such. I'd rather avoid all that work on this L if I can. If it gets me a small 1 or maybe 2 inch lift, cool.

This might have been different because it was an XFE model and they added a lot of underbody panels for fuel economy. Suppose I could have dug out a control arm. There was a LOT of snow though.

So far this winter I've pulled a full size 4wd suburban off a snow bank, and a Chevy Aveo back on the road, it was probably 10 yards off the road in a foot of snow. This morning I happened across a Cobalt that was stuck on a huge drift in the middle of a side road. Couldnt find anything to hook onto. Everything underneath was covered by plastic panels. Ended up giving them a ride home a half mile or so.

Uhh the current Impreza is rated at 36 mpg highway, I'd say thats pretty efficient for a modern car with AWD standard. I'm sure 40 mpg on a highway trip is easy with the 5 speed. Only thing I dont understand is why does the legacy now have a 6 speed standard, while the impreza and forester are still stuck with 5 gears? The main drawback of the EJ25 over the (older) 22 is the interference design...

They actually called them Merkur there? I figured they were Ford Sierra just like the rest of Europe. Sweet van, and your English is better than most Americans.

"Cold air" on an NA as powerful as a turbo? Where'd you read this, a Cavalier forum?

The disc was messed up. Possibly happened when I put it back together. The hub was pushed back so it was sticking out of the other side of the disc. Car is now running and driving

Well the good engine is in and it does run great, but now the clutch wont fully disengage! Seriously! Im going nuts here!

Impossible to tell a direct difference in MPG, but .4L less may be good for a couple mpg. Too many variables. If hes looking for mpg, and it has to be subaru, and has to be awd, why an auto? Ive managed 34mpg on a 55mph highway trip according to my ultragauge, but I'm sure I could have done better with a 5 speed. An EJ18, 5 speed fwd could probably manage 40mpg if driven right. Especially in a coupe.

Sourced a very well running engine 5 miles from where Im working on the car, for a good price at that. Knocker is already out, less than two hours, these things are so easy to pull. Good engine should be in tomorrow.

Well they havent gotten back to me yet... must not like business too much. I might try "the sube shop" in Morgantown next.

True, but the only way I will be able to afford that is if they can take both of my core engines for a bit of a discount. Its also a 5 hour drive. I'll check into it.

I wouldnt even try, I was told it had a knock and gambled on it being piston slap, and I dont really wanna go back to that place, it made me wish I had my concealed carry permit. I bought it for pennies compared to the "good" junkyard engines out there. Im probably looking at spending 3-4 times as much now for one thats guaranteed to be good/low miles.

So I got it all back together the other night, but the new engine is junk. Sounds like theres no rod bearings in it. Found a 31k mile engine on car-part for $1300, and a 30k mile one for $1400. Im gonna find out if either place buys core/rebuildable engines since I now have two.

Progress has been made... had it out within a few hours of getting it in the garage.

Found out that my new-to-me forester has spent its whole life in WI, I'm the 3rd owner, and had an animal collision in November 09.

Mine burns through all gears in the rain ^^^

I paid $700 for an 02 forester with the same issue, perfect body.

Brought my replacement EJ25 home today. Festiva ftw. Timing belt is a Gates and looks pretty new, so I think I'm gonna run with it. Maybe check the idlers and water pump and see if they've been replaced as well.

Yes there was an empty 1gal jug of Chevron delo in the back. And lots of directions to places in Wisconsin. So im sure theres a lot of highway miles. Timing belt looks good though. The car seems fairly well maintained other than the blown motor.

I'm on a super tight budget here. I scored the engine for 350. So it'll at least hold me over for a while til I can get what I really want for it.