rdweninger

probably best to check the yellow pages. Then call them for soob availability. Most guys are not going to tell you that there is a sweet 82 hatchie down at joe's wrecking yard.... because they might want the parts first. If you are not familiar with 'yellow pages' ... you might try googling eugene auto salvage. good luck finding your parts. If need ... you can post a wanted ad in the marketplace within this forum. What do you need, and for what vehicle?

+1 on the relay... if needed. You have new contacts in starter, so that's good. Maybe first, clean and tighten battery connections. Then check resistance in battery cables.

Yes, you can replace the 2 heater hoses with 5/8" (I believe) and the bypass with 1/4" found at any parts store. Just be sure to allow plenty of length to make your bends with not too tight a radius.

Inspect tires. Bubble or tread separated? Sounds like you re-did the front end ... so I'm sure you know where to check fastener torques. Hub stripped?

The Rock Auto Bosch pump has a precision pressed impeller. That sounds fancy, but it means that is a stamped impeller. Which is not what you want when it comes to your cooling system. Check out the Aisin brand. It has a precision diecast impeller. It's only $7 more. Before you order from RA, look at what hoses you might need. Heater hose, bypass hose, upper/lower rad, there's another one out of the water pump.... don't recall what they call it. Then put the water pump into your cart ... and check out if the hoses ship from the same warehouse. There will be a weird looking 'truck' icon next to items (parts) that ship from same warehouse. Will save you tons on shipping. Get your hoses.... thermoswitch, maybe?

I only carry liability on a few of my Soobs ... the ones that I drive. However, all my Soobs have comprehensive coverage (to cover fire, hail and theft). I can't afford collision on any of them.

Uh .. Oh. Folding body doesn't sound good. Maybe I'll just remove the headliner and start pounding with BFH. Then cut in an aftermarket sunroof and fab a polycarbonite windshield. I'll post some pics of the damage (from home).

Not sure about other state insurance regs.... but in OR, you can add just comprehensive. (Have to have liability by law). My comp is only a few bucks more per month. Collision, on the other hand, is VERY expensive... which is why I don't have it. If you hit a deer, road hazard, flying rock, or a tree falls on your car ... comp will cover it.

So the car in question is my 85 Hatch. Hood and roof destroyed by a slow elk. I was going to cut the A-pillar about 8" up and cut the roof out all the way back to the front of B-pillar. Then put in an 8" lexan windshield. Of course, this would be my 'summer' car... as it would be a full-time convertable. However, I am thinking I may want to fix the Hatchie properly. Question is, can I use an earlier EA81 wagon hood and roof to replace the Hatchie's? Like an 80-84 wagon? What do you think ... any way a good body man can cut/weld in a new top and fix the hood hinges and get a new windshield to fit? I don't know ... kinda leaning towards the convertable. Nobody has one of those ... right?

Comprehensive Insurance covers road hazards, theft and acts of God (like a hail storm). Hopefully, you have comp. It's quite inexpensive. Although, there is a deductible, but alot of glass shops will 'pay' your deductible.

I see the pic. kinda small. Can't really see the 'problem' with the crank.

95% chance that the high speed vibration is your wheels and/or tires. Not a guess... I've had a couple tire shops tell me that figure. Could be tire separating .... bent wheel .... not balanced correctly... lost weight. A friend of mine sandblasted and powder coated his rims. Bought new tires, mounted and balanced. Had bad vibration. He had the shop re-balance all 4 wheels ... twice. All his front-end components checked out ok. Still bad vibration up front. I finally told him to try a different tire shop... guess what... they re-balanced all 4 and no more vibration. This leads me to believe that some spin balancers may not be calibrated correctly.

For sure, read the date code. I have heard tires 'break down' with time. Not just mileage. Beginning in 2000, they used a 4-digit code. Like wwyy (ww=week yy=year). So 5205 would mean the tire was manufactured the 52 week of 2005. Prior to 2000, they used a 3-digit code. So 517 would be the 51st week of 1997 (or 1987, or 1977) ... because they didn't use a 2-digit year. The date could be imbedded within DOTEK6G DFM517 (517 is the date code) Could be on either side of the tire, or both sides if you're lucky.

Yes, Ferox. Could you please post link (if written) to your delete mods on the Hitachi? Like what is hooked up and everything else is deleted? Thank you. Awesome graphics ihscout54. What software did you use to create that.... and did you post it as an image filetype? Great job.

I have read all over the SVX forums and found that I can ground pin A4 at the TCU to get Power Mode full time... or put in a switch for on/off. So I tried this last year, and it did not work. I just got a poor running SVX with check engine light. I double checked the pin, yes it is A4, yes it is the TCU. What I found was that there was some voltage on that pin. It would lightly spark when I touched it to ground. Does anyone here have any experience with their SVX? I have heard this is similar on the late 90's Outbacks and/or Legacys. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

I did my research and, yes, ea82 ujoints will be a challenge. I am considering a driveline shop in Portland ... but there's no fun in that. My boy's car was easy. Remove rear driveshaft. Pull rear driveshaft from $100 parts car (she keeps giving, and giving and giving). Install new old driveshaft. But now, I want a replacement spare for my '85 ea82 wagon. So I gotta fix the broken one. Thanks, Dad !!! Tom, can I buy any ujoint for the ea82 ... or is it a special ujoint for replacing staked oem's?

You da man, Naru. How do you get WiFi under the bridge? You in NW?

Tru 'dat. Driveline U-joints. Just heard the same sound from EA82. Diagnosed my boy's car in 5 seconds.

What is the number on the bulb? Make sure it is low beam and test outside of vehicle wiring (one hot wire and one ground wire). The headlamps always have 12v to them ... it is the ground (ie., headlight switch) that completes the circuit. Relays are - 1 for left side, 1 for right side... pretty sure on that.

yep ... I would definitely go with the Fiesta engine. Subaru obviously didn't have a clue when they designed the horizontally opposed engine. Maybe you should google 'to the moon and back Subaru'.

That screw is prone to loosen .... so previous owner probably used some loctite to keep it in there. Make sure you have the proper screwdriver ... #1 , #2 etc. of good steel quality. Sometimes helps to vocalize a primal grunt when applying maximum pressure. good luck ... and don't strip the head.

If you want, you can ram a screwdriver in next to the female brass fitting to keep it from spinning. Otherwise, get physical with them. Don't worry about the timing mark on the rear cover... you will notice that it lines up with the gasket line at the heads (or valve cover... I forget. But you'll see it)

Tru 'dat. Loose the covers. I removed both front and back on 3 of my EA82's. Never had a problem. And I drive gravel logging roads every weekend - snow in the winter. Now, you can keep an eye on all your timing components - and replace a water pump in 15 minutes.

Yes, your compression gauge is broken. Either that, or you did a great job on the heads. Also amazing if the rings are original. Now, I have to check my numbers tonight.

I have had 2 disty's rebuilt by Philbin in Portland, OR. Give them a call. I think I paid $120 for the last rebuild. New IM, new bushings, new vacuum advance. Mine were for 85 wagons. Yours may be the optical dizzy ... check on that.