rdweninger

Take some measurements. It might be something like this ... 21 teeth, 7/8" middle hole diam, and 225mm outside diameter. Once you have the numbers, we can tell you what it fits.

Scooner, the stock stud length is 37mm. That's like 1.5". Just make sure your flange covers the unthreaded middle part.... so your nut does not run out of threads towards the middle of the stud.

Hello all. My daughter reported to me that she has to add brake fluid every few weeks. Her Soob is an 1985 EA82, FWD only, AT. I am assuming she has a leaky wheel cylinder. The car is 100 miles away, but I will head down there this weekend for the repair. My question is, I'm pretty sure the 4WD EA82's get the 3/4" rear wheel cylinders.... but do the FWD EA82s get the 5/8" cylinder? I think all the EA81's got the 5/8". I just want to order the correct ones, first time. Thanks for your help.

Was thinking, could also be a failing pedal box ... they have a tendency to crack and weaken over time. You adjust the cable .... pedal box weakens more over the next few weeks ... adjust the cable again .... and so on. Let us know what you find ...

You mean the PCV ? There's a good write up from Loyale 2.7. Basically, the passenger side gets fresh air in. Then dirty crankcase air from the driver side goes back into the intake to be burned. Yes.... you want this.

I have heard that aftermarket clutch cables have problems stretching out. However, I do not have any experience with aftermarket cables. Can you smell the clutch? Losing oil at the rear main and possibly affecting the clutch disc friction surface? Curious what brand disc/PP you put in last. Did you really find a new flywheel?

I could be a brake caliper sticking. Did you lube the pins when you did the brake job? PS Belt could be slipping when pump is under load - check fluid and tension of belt. Tighten those axle nuts - A lot of retail auto part stores will 'loan' you a 36mm socket and 1/2" bar. Let us know what you find.

I can help with scanning to pdf. I have scanners and software to create pdf. I can OCR the docs for quick search. Let me know if you want some help.

10 years ago, mine had a pin hole in it and had steam coming out of it... but only when up to operating temp (maybe slightly over, as I was low on coolant again) I too, looked for a water leak for 2 weeks. My conclusion is .... Steam dissipates - Water puddles.

did anyone else notice the detail on that photo? Amazing pixelization. ok, I just made up that word. OP, what camera do you have? I want one.

not sure about the GD post, but he advised me personally to go with no cork and use only ultra grey on the oil pan. 3 years and no leaks on two different ea82's. I would like to hear more on the different metals and some basic chemistry. I always thought that the problem with the 2.5 and the blowing headgaskets was related to some sort of dielectric condition. Maybe a 'galvie' anode would be a good idea on all motors?

Update. I checked the connection at the heater - looks good. Checked the resistor pack - looks good. Pulled the fuse block again to get access to the heater fan relay. The connector to that relay was a little burnt looking, so I investigated a bit closer and found ..... the hot wire had a bare spot. The wire had seemed to have rubbed against a metal bracket near the relay spring clip holder (the one closest to the steering wheel). Not sure if that's why the connector was burnt looking - but I really need to solder in some new connectors and use the Bosch relay. Anyone have a source for these Bosch connectors and relays? I have searched the interweb, but there the info is overwhelming.

The intake manifold is what delivers the air/fuel mixture to your cylinder heads. If your 87 is carbed, then the carburetor sits on top on the intake manifold. If your 87 is efi, then the throttle body sits atop the manifold. Use ONLY Subaru OEM intake manifold gaskets. A lot of times, the intake bolts will snap off in the heads ... leaving you with a bolt stub which may prove difficult to remove. A lot of old vacuum lines will crack/crumble upon removal. You should take this chance to replace them. My humble advice is .... if you are not sure where the intake manifold is, then you might need some help from someone with a bit more experience with automotive mechanics. But, having said that, there is no better time to learn. Maybe a board member close to you could give you a hand. Good luck ... and read the posts on this site for more knowledge.

I'll have some time this evening to start pulling things apart .... but the strange thing is that with the dash selector set to OFF, the blower motor should not be receiving any voltage. My understanding of the 'flow' of electricity in this circuit would be battery - fuse - selector button - fan resistor pack - blower motor - ground. And somewhere in that flow is ignition switch (ie., key on). Does this sound correct? And if so, why would I be blowing fuses with the key OFF? I'll check the blower motor connection tonight and report back tomorrow.

If you look at the round top of the EA82 strut part that receives the top of the spring ... there will be a stamp mark indicating "OUT". You might have to clean that piece up to see the stamp.

Hello Subagurus. 1985 EA82. Here is the story... A few weeks ago, had been driving for 30 minutes - then the heater/defrost stopped blowing. I only run the fan on high (4) because I want to save my resistor pack (high runs at the full 12 volts). So I get home and find that the two 15 amp fuses for the heater have blown. I replace the 2 fuses... all works well. Yesterday, I drive the Soob for about 10 minutes. Heat was on, Fan was blowing set to high.... then stopped blowing. So I figure the fuses blew again. Get home, sure enough, both fuses for heater were blown. I go to replace the fuses, and immediately when I insert the 15 amp fuse into the slots ... the fuse blows. I did this twice, same result. Key is OFF (actually sitting on the dash). Heat Selection is set to OFF. Fan is set to lowest setting. This has me stumped. Why would I be blowing fuses with everything off, no key? Any suggestions on what might be the problem? I pulled the fuse block, and all looks good - no mice - no moisture. There is also a fuse for FAN - but that fuse has never blown. Not even sure that runs the Heat/Defrost Fan.

HG's go on dry. No sealant required. Make sure the block and head surface is clean and flat. You can hand-lap your heads in 30 minutes - or have a machine shop do them. Important - Make sure to chase/clean the threads in your block and your head bolts. Use proper torque sequence. Ok to go 5# over. Something going wrong with your torque wrench ... you shouldn't have loose head bolts. Maybe borrow or buy a better torque wrench - use 1/2 drive. good luck with your re-seal.

Clean up the old cap/rotor and keep for spares.

hey Morf ... Jackaroo jacked your Hatch. I would buy both of them ... still have lots of room in my pasture.

Very nice. Lake Blue is my favorite color. If you take care of it, you will own this car for a VERY long time. Start looking for a good deal on 13" tires... getting harder to find these days.

I don't think you could move the gear on the cam just by putting the disty in. Try some engine assembly lube on the disty gear ... wiggle, lift, wiggle harder.

maybe some eggnog and rum .... in case everything else fails.

Here's a tip that most of you may already know. Use your multimeter (set to ohms) to check fuses. You do not need to pull the fuses, they have 2 small contacts on the face (where it states the amps). Just put your probes on each contact and if ohms = 0, then the fuse is good. I have a Duramax with approx. 2000 fuses ... when the trailer lights go out, you never know which fuse it is ... so I check 'em all.

That is strange. When I re-boot, I always make sure to use a small screwdriver to let some air in before I band it. But you say yours 'keep' doing it? If the boots suck in (ie., air tight), then how does the grease get out?

I'd be interested in a thread on how to replace the synchros. My 2nd gear has been bad for years. Like a step by step procedure, any special tools required ... and exactly which part is the synchro ? Can you tell I've never had mine apart ? But I'll try anything, once.