rdweninger

89 would be EFI. Check your codes on the ECU. Lots of info on this site on the procedures. Check for vacuum leaks by spraying carb cleaner around the intake and existing vacuum lines. That would be my guess... a cracked vacuum line... especially after a top end rebuild. Intake bolts loose?

Check the alternator fins. Make sure the pulley and fins rotate w/o hitting anything. My fins were all bent in and hit the alt body after my front-end collision.

Could be a fuse. Check those. Could be the relay again... That would be bad luck. Hook up 12v to the blower motor directly... if it don't run, the motor is shot. There is also a resistor pack that controls the low medium high fan output. Those burn out.... but the high setting 'should' always work because it is not resisted.

not sure if you replaced the front struts - but they have an inside and outside orientation. You know, like "This side out". It is marked on the top of the plate where the coil spring seats.

Pull the bulbs ???

Good grief LeoRod, you're not listening and not looking. Jonas posted a pic clearly displaying the relays as if they were two squirrel nuts. Nice one, Jonas. To make things a bit easier, try pulling out the front seat. It's like 4 bolts and will give you plenty of room to lay on your back and put you legs up on the back seat. I have actually taken a nap like that. On the ea82's, I think I loosen the screws holding the fuse box up... just to make it easier to get at the relays. Disconnect your battery negative first.. Or... go to the library... I promise, it won't make you smarter.

yes, the front is a called a strut - basically a shock inside a coil spring. You just need to find the replacement shock and then compress the coil springs to replace the inside shock. A shop can do this if you don't have access to a few spring compressors. You might consider getting new top hats or at least replace the bearings in them. The rear is just a standard looking shock absorber. Do the rears first and see if there is improvement - easy and cheap. When I did my front struts, I ended up regrease/rebooting the axles, rebuilding my calipers, turned the rotors, new pads, all new brake fluid, new tie rod ends, new steering boots, new ball joints, new wheel bearings/seals and wrapped my exhaust to keep the heat off all the new rubber parts. Hopefully, I won't have to replace anything on the suspension/steering/brake system for another 30 years. When I bought the car in 1993, the previous owner had just put new pads on. That was 85,000. I ran those pads for 145,000 miles (odo is at 220,000 now). So yes, I hope I'm good to go for 30 years. We will see... maybe.

Sapper has an '84 ea81 wagon. Very different struts/shocks than the ea82. The originals will have Fuji stamped on them. You gotta look ... they may have been replaced already. How does the wagon ride?

The existing threads are 10mm x 1.25 So 10mm in decimal inch is .39" which is just smaller than 13/32". The Heli-coil kit comes with a 13/32" drill bit... which is just larger than the existing hole... and will accommodate the new tap and threads for Heli-Coil brand. Your 'new' studs require a 9/16" hole and drill bit... which is just over an 1/8" larger than the 13/32" required. Personally, I would not drill out my heads with 9/16". That is way too excessive in my opinion. You're losing a lot of material that you cannot replace! Ever. I used Keenserts (stainless) on my heads. Google them. Then used the stock 10mm x 1.25 studs (new, of course). I don't remember the drill required, but they will tell you when you order the insert for 10mm x 1.25. It is probably a numbered bit very close to 13/32"

There's not a lot of performance gains to be found on the 1.8 OHV. A Weber carb may help with fuel delivery coupled with an EA82 intake manifold. I would start with a compression test to see what you are working with. Use ONLY NGK plugs. Check plug wires with ohms meter and/or replace if old. Check for vacuum leaks.

Nice DL. I wish I had the 4 headlights. The lenses on my GL's all suck. they leak and/or fog up.

Also, when you order from RA, check other items you may need in the future. If the 2nd part you want to order has the little truck icon, then that part will ship from the same facility as the first part you ordered. Thus, spreading your shipping cost out. Careful... it's easy to get carried away. But it is nice having an inventory of parts in your garage. Pads, shoes, spring sets, caps, rotors, wheel bearings, seals, belts, bulbs. I think I paid $11 each for my lift supports for my Hatchie. Must have been on closeout.

So no 'BRAT' emblems or badges on the vehicle??? Interesting. Now, I want a Brumby. I hate my Brat. Ha! Thanks for the info.

Ok... I just have to ask. I've heard the term for years. Why do the Aussie's call them Brumby's.

Only ordered 1 ? I'm pretty sure they don't come 2 per pack. Although, some brands may. I wish they all did. Ya, I got scared off when I priced them at my local auto parts store for $30 each. So, I opted for the same brand/part # from RA. And of course ordered a bunch of other parts to spread the shipping cost over a bunch of parts. Good luck. Enjoy fixing up your '84 EA81 Wagon. How many miles on it?

I'll guess it's an 84 wagon. I checked RockAuto. Body Exterior - They have AMS and Sachs for your wagon , 'bout $16 each. Double check your extended and compressed lengths before ordering. Don't order the Hatch parts unless you have a 2-door Hatchback.

Called Lift Supports. What year is you wagon? 84 is different body style than 85.

Just to be sure, is it the check engine light or the EGR light. The EGR light comes on every 60,000 miles and can be cleared by swapping some plugs under the dash. As far as pics go... I was just wanting to see the nicest cleanest Subaru in CA. Was kidding about needing them to diagnose.

I figured you were a sled-head.

Sapper, I think what you are talking about are two different things. The rear diff has gear oil. Drain and replace the fluid. Then, the transmission has it's own gear oil. Drain and replace that. I think I used 80w-90 in both areas... or maybe 75w-90. ATF is automatic transmission fluid. We use it as a 'cleaner' in our crankcase (and other fluids work, see above). I remember a product called Rislone about 20 years ago. A lot of mechanics advised it's use... but it would remain in the crankcase for the full oil change cycle. The oil galleys in these motors seem to 'gunk up' I had a stuck valve in an 1800cc a few years back. I put in ATF and ran for 6-8 minutes at 1500-2000 rpm. This fixed the problem. So now, just before every other oil change, I put in a half quart of ATF... run the motor for 5 minutes at 1500 rpm... drain the oil... replace the filter... fill with Delo 15-40. I have never heard the tick of death since then. 285,000 miles. You do any sledding over there? I'm ready.

When / If you add ATF to your engine oil just prior to changing the oil .... I would only run the motor for maybe 5-10 minutes at 1500-2000 rpm. And I maybe do this every 3rd oil change. I use Delo 10-40 since 1990 and I have 280,000 on my '85. I have never had any issues with the motor, cams, valves, HG's, mains, oil pump. I have a small cam seal leak, and if I were to put in synthetic oil, it would become a BIG seal leak. Compare your old thermostat to your new OEM thermostat. You will see the difference. Pull the thermoswitch from the radiator and clean the green stuff off sensor (inside) and the electrical contacts. You can test with a multimeter, hot water and thermometer on your stovetop. It will complete the ground (ie., the circuit) when it reaches 180 degrees or so. And yes... hot water will burn you. Ask me how I know. You in Stanley?

Need pics of your Subaru before we can diagnose the problem. also, year and model would help. so we know how to read the codes, blinky lights or ODBII

Dinky, get down to OK before this guy scraps an '84 wagon for no good reason. Got fuel ?

I also had the license plate bulb socket problem on an S-10. Just go thru all your wires and bulb sockets. Clean things up. Look for shorts in the hot wire... rusty bulb sockets Popping fuses is simply something drawing too many amps.

did you replace the CTS? That helps control the air/fuel mixture - depending upon if the engine is cold or warmed up. It's kinda like a choke on carbed engines. And please, you gotta stop sniffin your tailpipe. Ha! Sorry 'bout that. There's carbon monoxide. Nice looking Loyale. Take care of it. Word is... they are not making any more of them.