rdweninger

Can we get back to the part where he said he is planning on sleeping in his car this winter?

Electrical problems are always challenging. Keep at it and let us know what you find the problem to be. Don't EVER give up !

PICK THE 1983 U.S SKI TEAM WAGON !!!!!!!! and stay out of Alabama.

I couldn't find a torque spec when I rebuilt my oil pump. So I just torqued it at about 6 or 7 foot pounds... that's the same as the water pump.

You can sometimes tune those horns. After you check you have power and the horn is the problem... loosen the nut (on back of horn) and adjust the tuning 'fork' by moving the Phillips screw in and out.

This would be a good time to rebuild your front calipers... being that they have to be removed/unhooked. Rebuild kits are cheap... just an oring and a boot. Flush out all the old brake fluid. You're going to enjoy the new ride.

What's a 'wongleflute'. You all lost me on that. And yes, this is a forum for helping and meeting your fellow soobienuts. Be Nice.

+ 1 on changing the ATF. Measure what drains out. Amount will be different than stated capacity because all does not drain out. Save the old fluid, mix with acetone to make liquid wrench. Then drain and replace the fluid again after 1 month if you wish to get near 100% new fluid.

yes, you will need a spring compresser to replace the shocks. The whole assembly is called a strut (ie., shock with a coilover). Front and Rear will require the springs be compressed. The job is a bit dangerous ... so be careful if you do it yourself. Have a shop quote you a price to do all 4 on the bench. They have wall mounted spring compressers which are much safer. Tophats ... you can just replace the bearing in them after they have been removed from the vehicle. Read up on the subject. The fronts have an inside/outside orientation.

Attach a 6" rubber hose to the end of your turkey baster. Works for me.

Parts do not exchange well if you are thinking stock to stock. However, you mentioned the 82 has the newer ea82 engine and 5 spd tranny. So it depends on what you want to do with the car. If you are thinking you want the motor and tranny for your 85-89 GL, then that's about all that will swap. Well... okay... the wheels also. Then put an ea81 or ej22 back into the 82... but go with the 5 spd. Bring that 3rd - Eye back to life. As you describe it.... $400 - $500. Then prepare yourself for a labor of love.

Looks like your #1 and #3 plug wires are wrong. Disty firing order is 1-3-2-4 Starting with the #1 at disty being closest to the firewall.... then #3 is counter clockwise from #1. #1 cylinder is front passenger side. #3 cyl is rear passenger side.

They will take care of him in Dutch Harbor if he pulls any crap up there. ALOT of crab pots on the bottom of the ocean with no buoys attached.

The '86 could be spfi or carbed. Drum rear brakes. The 2 headlight system could be problematic because the lenses sometimes leak and the reflective coating dulls and/or flakes off. Every EA82 I own has the crappy lenses. Whereas your DL has 4 sealed beam headlights... instead of just the 9004 bulb replacement on ea82s. I would not have a problem towing the DL... just gear down BEFORE you head down a 6% downgrade. No LSD. You've got a lot of things to fix / inspect / replace / maintain before you decide to take an '86 over the Rockies. And don't forget about the Cascade Range. Good luck on your trip. Keep your tools handy... you may need them!

You may be looking at EA81 starters. Years overlapped. Tell parts lookup to search for 1989 Subaru Loyale 1.8 liter OHC. What's up with the starter? You may be able to fix it yourself... could be ignition, relay, bad fuse, faulty ground, worn contacts. I wouldn't just go throwing money at the problem.

My take is ... if you accept payment for goods, then you should ship them asap... like NEXT DAY. Yes, he is down on his luck. But that is no excuse for failing to ship the parts. He received the cash for the parts and the amount for shipping. Advice to everyone.... When you are down on your luck, don't screw your friends or your family. They are the only ones who are there to help you get back on your feet.

yes, you need both pcv ports... as you say. Fresh air enters on the passenger side and exits from the driver side. Jesek has a good write up on how to set up your pcv circuit with catch. Clean and check your pcv valve and all hoses... they can plug up. I removed the entire charcoal canister and every bit of emissions on my EA82. All that is left is a Weber, disty, alt, and coil. Make sure you have an OEM Subaru thermostat. Make sure the thermoswitch in radiator kicks on at about 180 or 190. 'Burp' the cooling system with frontend greatly elevated, cap off, heater full on, engine running, thermostat open.

Didn't see the vacuum line from carb to disty. Also the vacuum line for heater control is not hooked up. You might need a pressure regulator on the fuel line before the Weber - prevents dieseling. Dems some old-looking plug wires - could be a problem. New cap and rotor? Set timing with vac-advance unhooked. Check all sparkplug connections - I had #2 not connected well after my 'mechanic' finished a HG job. Keep removing the remaining emissions junk.

Pull your starter. Replace the copper contacts. I wrote a post on this a few months back.

If you go zip tie, I have heard that the exhaust heat will make the ties brittle after some time. I have my exhaust wrapped and my boots zip tied on one rig. On other Soobs, I have stainless steel safety wire.... it won't rust. Zip ties going strong for 2 years now.

Thanks everyone. I took pics this weekend.... now just need to figure out how to post them. I got the hood off (no easy task) and the radiator unwrapped from the crank pulley. Bumper removed. I should be able to beat the front clip back into shape to receive the stock EA81 radiator. Gloyale says he loves the Hitachie carb - wonder if he has some time to look at the broken base plate and help remove all the vacuum mess to simplify the operation? The Hatch will be a convertible (open roof, really). Probably figure out a way to fabric over the engine compartment - like some snowmobiles are. And finally, a poly-carbonate windshield - half size. I can really see the value of this Hatchie going up ..... Ha!

Check for vacuum leaks around the carb and intake manifold. Your car is 28 years old. Those vacuum lines get hard and brittle. Lots of help out there on utube. I use carb cleaner... yes, it is flammable. Good luck... plenty of time till the snow flies. Did you check your timing belts? And Timing?

I have a 1985 EA82 Wagon - GL10, 2wd(front), Auto Trans, MPFI. Great car for the 16 year old daughter. Oh... 85,000 on the meter.

Hello all. So, I'm a bit confused on my plan to rebuild the 85 Hatchback. Story is, the elk did some major damage up front. Radiator is toast and the carb is busted off the intake manifold. So, I would like to go with a Weber. Question is, should I get the 32/36 DGVE (with electric choke)? And if I do, should I swap in an EA82 intake manifold? Do I need the adaptor plate also? Or is there a Weber that will direct fit the EA81? Then, I read about putting lower rad hose from the EA82 to fit the new intake thermostat housing. So should I get a new EA81 radiator. Or will an EA82 radiator fit the Hatchback? Anyone had good luck with the RockAuto Spectra Premium radiators? Part #s? Thanks for your input. Wish there were some Soobie Nuts around Tillamook. I'll try to post some pics this weekend. Sorry about all the questions... but I find myself just staring at the carnage... with no solutions.

Tru 'dat Jeszek. Delo 15-40 in ALL my rigs. Exceeds military specs that were developed for submarine engines in WWII. The subs had to change their oil at sea... would leave a big oil slick... planes would spot and bomb. With the 'new' engine oil - no more oil changes required at sea. Although, I am looking into Rotella.