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rdweninger

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Everything posted by rdweninger

  1. rdweninger
    My front struts were shot. New KYB's fixed the clunking. Put new bearings in the strut mounts.
  2. rdweninger
    Good one, G. Not only would that work, but would be a great conversation piece. Make sure it is NGK. Subaru's new 5-cyl.
  3. rdweninger
    OP, Joe... take your intake gaskets down to the Subaru dealer in town. Compare them to the Subaru OEM intake gaskets. You will see why not to use them. Don't forget your cam seals and orings at the dealer. Looks like the kit has the cam seals... there's an oring behind the seal. Also, the reinforced oring inside the cam case is dealer item.
  4. rdweninger
    We have a few stations in town that offer ethynol free fuel. Check all your stations in town. Marinas should all carry it.
  5. rdweninger
    Dee2, that's like saying you should only take your car to Midas to have the brakes done... because they are 'professionals'. And honing a cylinder is quite simple as well. However, re-boring a cylinder should be done at a machine shop. And why not lap your own heads... it's easy. Tip- Start with 100 or 120 grit. I spray some wd-40 on the wet/dry sandpaper for lube. Finish with 200 or 220 grit. Don't worry too much about slight discoloration about the fire ring. Use Felpro permatorque head gaskets. I use half inch glass as my base.
  6. rdweninger
    Fuel pump and/or Fuel Filter.
  7. rdweninger
    Finally, MilesFox mentions the radiator hoses. For some reason, they always blow in the middle of a long road trip. Also, replace the 2 heater hoses at the firewall.... or be ready with the parts. Always have drinking water (a lot) in the rig. You can use it for coolant, windshield cleaner and personal hydration. I remember heading east on I90 a few years back... we hit a super swarm of bugs (caddis flies?) around Moses Lake. Late at night... no exit... middle of nowhere... could not see thru the windscreen. Had to 'clean' the windshield with water from my canteen.
  8. rdweninger
    As you pull the fuses, check your multimeter to see if there was a drop in draw from that circuit. That would be where your battery drain is coming from. I'm not sure how many should be hot w/o ignition. I could test my 85 ea82 tonight.
  9. rdweninger
    My o-ring developed a leak back in 2001. I coated it with some black rtv for a quick fix. Now, 13 years later, Tom reminds me that I need to order one. 806927010.... 806927010... call dealer now... 806927010
  10. rdweninger
    Distys came as Hitachie and NipponDenso. Make sure your cap/rotor is compatible with your disty. Nice job with the multimeter... I told you it would be your friend... ha!
  11. rdweninger
    I did my '85 wagon recently. New tie rods, ball joints, steering boots, wheel bearings and seals, struts and mounts, brake pads, turned the rotors, rebuilt the calipers and rebooted the axles. I sourced all the parts at rockauto except the steering boots. Car had 220,000 on it. All original parts... even the brake pads. You need to determine how many miles are on the vehicle, any parts recently replaced, and how long you intend to own the vehicle. I will probably be buried in my Subie... it's cheaper than a coffin.
  12. rdweninger
    Tru 'dat. Pre 1983 was 200mm 21 spline 7/8" shaft. 1983 + was 225mm 21 spline 7/8" shaft Watch out for EA82 parts when ordering for EA81... Yes... tell the parts guy it's for an 84. EA82 4wd is 225mm with 24 spline 1" shaft EA82 Frontwheel Drive is 200mm with 21 spline 7/8" shaft..... yep... same as the pre 1983 EA81 ... like Gloyale says. The guy is usually, almost always, mostly correct alot of the time. How's that for a compliment? OP - replace your throwout bearing now... otherwise, you will be pulling the motor AGAIN in the near future. Also replace the pilot bearing...fer sure.
  13. rdweninger
    Disconnect battery. Remove starter from vehicle. The contacts are accessible by removing the 3 small bolts holding the endcap on. You will see the copper contacts will have deep grooves in them. the one on the battery side will have deeper grooves. Replace both contacts. I wrote up a post about a year ago. Google search Subaru replace starter contacts... you might watch a youtube video. Hope this helps. I've fixed several starters this way.
  14. rdweninger
    Ditch the covers... front and back. Now you can see your cam seals. Change belts in 20 minutes. Check tension easily. Change water pump.
  15. rdweninger
    TomRhere, my notes indicate same... with exception of the condenser.... which notes say goes to the positive side of coil. I'll get a visual on my Hatch tonight and report back tomorrow. The yellow from the harness is the tach signal wire. Beings that was hooked to the same side as B/W from harness which is 12v ignition... the fuel pump ran constant with key on.
  16. rdweninger
    What? Nobody else wants to field this question? First of all, what you have here is a complete mess. If it were mine, I would unhook everything from it's power source... ie., battery. Then start from scratch. Hook up one circuit at a time. Be prepared to install new fuseable links, new ignition switch, maybe a fuse block, several relays and such. By the time you get this Brat fixed... you will be an expert on Subaru Brat wiring. Or maybe your dash will look like the cockpit of a fighter jet... with independent switchs/fuses for all new circuits. Or... drop it off at Shawn's shop in Denver... he'll fix it. Ha! Sorry Shawn. Best of luck to you... buy a multimeter and 12v test light today.
  17. rdweninger
    The ea82 heads are interchangeable... just might have to delete the egr and plug the egr port. (if the right side ends up on the left side)
  18. rdweninger
    a manual fuel pump? I'm guessing this is an electric fuel pump? with a manual switch. Check your timing. Install fuel pressure regulator before the Weber. The backfire is unburnt/extra fuel in your exhaust, that then ignites when it gets hot enough or finds a 'spark'...
  19. rdweninger
    I have never heard of loosen axle nuts to 'fix' a problem. You best torque them back to the 145-150 lbs as required by Subaru law. That's where your wheel shudder is coming from... and a whole bunch of other problems if you don't get them torqued up soon ! make sure all tires are the same size and have approximately the same tread depth to prevent what you call torque binding.
  20. rdweninger
    Nice one, El Presidente. Cracking me up. Looks like the breaker bar worked for the mad pig. I just picked up my 3/4" breaker bar, extension, sliding t-handle and ratchet set. An old Williams set... USA. So nice to have. Am so glad I broke my 1/2" breaker bar. It was a cheapo. Now I need to find a tractor to work on.
  21. rdweninger
    Looks good. I have considered painting my engine bay... but I don't seem to have the dedication that you have when it comes to de-greasing. Did you finish it with one can? How many coats?
  22. rdweninger
    I could handle slightly inferior... if that was my only choice for aftermarket. Sounds like the window weld eats rubber... does that sound like an accurate statement? I should post Wanted... new or slightly used OEM tranny mount for ea82.
  23. rdweninger
    Back on subject... how do you know all the aftermarket motor mounts come from India? What about the aftermarket tranny mounts? I pulled 2 ea82 motors in the past year with 200k + miles. The motor mounts looked good. I didn't check the tranny mounts... other than noticing they seemed all 'lubed' up. What is there, just the one tranny mount?
  24. rdweninger
    Aftermarket axles are mostly crap... as you will find out. I 'heard' that there is a new company that makes 'new' axles that are reliable... can't remember the name. I know MWE in Denver rebuilds axles for a lot of Subaru's... good quality. Personally, I clean, grease and reboot my own. Although, I do so when I first see a torn boot. Not after it has been grinding for 6 weeks.
  25. rdweninger
    Do you offer free shipping? Sorry, I had to ask. What part of Seattle? I have a brother up there who could pick them up... meet you somewhere.
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