rdweninger

Struts are fun to replace... Not. I just finished up my front-end rebuild. I actually wore a full faced helmet, big leather gloves and motorcycle jacket while compressing the springs and replacing the shock. Scary fun !!! I'm glad it's over with. Let me know when you have procured your new shocks. I've got a few tips to make it easier for you.

No need to take the tie rod off if you are only inspecting the cone and spring washer. But if you are removing the wheel bearing housing for repair... try this... Tie Rod Removal - .... take 2 hammers and hit simultaneously from both sides where the tierod passes thru the wheel bearing housing (some call it a hub). Of course, take the cotter pin and nut off first... maybe soak with PB Blaster or similar for a few hours. If that does not work, I turn the castle nut over and thread it on so it is just flush with the tierod bolt threads. Then one good shot with a ball peen and the tie rod will drop out. Careful, you could mess the threads up or even bend the tierod 'bolt'. On reassembly, the conical washer goes on first. Then the spring washer with the convex side facing out towards the nut... which goes on next.

I love my Subaru parts gal. She is always very helpful when finding me the parts I need. Even though she knows I usually source my parts elsewhere because of price issues. Nearest Subie dealer is 90 miles away.... but I'm ordering parts within minutes with a simple telephone call and they usually show up in 2 days. And... It doesn't hurt to send them (her) a package with some Tillamook cheese and Tillamook jerky every now and then. You wouldn't believe the discounts I get. Remember .... It's all about the love. Where do you think Subaru got that line? Ease up there... little buddy. Your car is nearly 30 years old - parts are not getting any cheaper.

One thing to try, quick and easy... spray carb cleaner around any vacuum ports/connections. I know you checked engine vacuum... but this tests for any vacuum leaks. Rule out any vacuum leaks... first.

+1 on Checking the timing. Maybe ohm out your plug wires. Double check the firing order. Make sure the plug caps are secure in the disty cap and on the plugs. I bought an EA82 that ran 'pretty good'. I wasn't too happy about the first tank's mpg... so I looked around a bit. The car ran 'really good' after I secured the #2 plug wire. Now I get 29 mpg.

I think you need the adapter plate and throttle assembly mod. Get ahold of Redline to get the specifics for what you need for the Brat. I swapped out a Carter-Weber on an '85 EA82.... so no experience with the Brat... yet.

+1 on jacking up the front diff a few inches. This will help with clearance to get the motor to slide onto shaft. I would still remove the inspection plate... It worked for me. Bad decision to not replace the pilot bearing... unless you know for a fact that it was very recently replaced. It cost about $5 Punch it out... punch it back in.

Did you remove the inspection plate? Sounds stupid, but that was what my problem was... and I have pulled/dropped in several motors. All it takes is for that plate to be bent up slightly... then the motor will not slide back. And don't cuss at your Subie... they can hear you.

Uh, Oh. You might need that clutch alignment tool to get everything centered before you bolt it. I'm not sure about all the swapping of parts... you might google it (Subaru flywheel step) or post something over on the Off Road section. Good luck. You'll get it.

Sounds like the step is different with XT clutch. I would check the specs on the step difference. Yes, you may want to have your flywheel machined to the proper specs. However, this is not why you can't get your shaft in. This is just an alignment problem. Did you use the clutch alignment tool? Is the bell housing inspection plate in the way?

I don't know guys.... he said it doesn't seem to like the cold and rain. Maybe this Brat came from the East side of the WA Cascades where it is much dryer. I would sell that Brat for what I paid for it. Sounds like a basket case. PM me.... please!

When you do the timing belts, behind the cam sprocket is a seal. I replaced the seals the first time I did timing belts in '95. However, I still had an oil leak. Found out there is an O-Ring behind the seal. I don't recall exactly how far you need to go to replace the o-ring. I believe you can do it all from the front. New grommets on valve cover bolt holes works wonders.

White Buffalo, sounds like you want to spend some money. So go buy some BPR6ES NGK plugs and a good quality multimeter to check the resistance in your plug wires. Change your oil and filter, often. Change the transmission fluid, front diff fluid and rear diff fluid. Never hurts to keep fresh brake fluid in your lines... that crap likes to attract water... and water leads to oxidation... and oxidation leads to rust... and rust... well, you get the idea. Leave all the other stuff on the shelf for the next guy.

When my boy and I were dropping his motor back in (after a pull and reseal)... we had problems getting the shaft to slide in. Turns out the little inspection plate on the bottom of the bell housing was bent up slightly and prevented the usual 'slide right on'. I actually removed the little inspection plate and reinstalled after the motor was in. Try that.

Thank you GLoyale. That is exactly what I needed to know. Mystery solved for my EA82 4wd wagon. So the EA81 4wd will have 3/4" bore also??? I'll get some ordered today. The brake shoes are soaked in brake fluid... Any chance of saving those... or should I go with new?

Hello all. 1985 EA82 4WD Wagon. My RR wheel cylinder is leaking. I had ordered a rebuild kit from RockAuto a year ago... and just opened it yesterday... only to find out that the rebuild kit seems to be for a 3/4" bore wheel cylinder. The one on my vehicle seems to be 5/8". Can anyone tell me what size wheel cylinders they have? RockAuto shows 5/8", 11/16" and 3/4" ... even for a 1990 Loyale. It could be possible that a previous owner put in a 5/8" on my rig? Any info from previous experience would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Most of the time, 1 and 2 get fried in the resistor pack... because of the constant flow (resistance) thru the pack. Most people did not push the 'Off' switch. They left it on 1 or 2. Here is what I do... I leave the setting to 4. Therefore, the full 12 volts makes it to the fan. No electricity runs thru the resistors. When I'm happy with the heat or defrost results, I turn the unit "Off'. All 4 of my settings work... I'm just preserving the resistor pack. Same reason I don't use my brakes.... Ha!

Just a quick tip for Buzz.... take the driver seat out... it's only 4 bolts. Then you can lay on your back with feet propped up on the back seat. This makes it ALOT easier to get under the dash... both your eyes and your hands. Seriously... it's the only way for us old guys to get in there. Before you put the seat back in... lube up the rails and bolt threads. Where is Granite Falls?

Hello all, I am looking at some KYB rear shocks for my '83 Hatchie 4wd. There are 2 parts listed. One is 343054 and the other is 343056. My Hatch is 4wd. Does anyone have experience with which shock will fit mine? Thanks for your help. Ron.

Not to hijack the thread... but I am looking for rear shocks for my '83 hatchback. It is 4wd. Question is KYB has the 343054 and 056. They say they both fit the rear... but don't specify whether one of for the 4wd and other is 2wd. Does anyone know which shock I need for my 4wd rears? Although, would like to know if these 'air shocks' would work... need pics and manufacturer part #'s.

Now would be a good time to upgrade to the Bosch relays... beings your dash is apart. Some soldering required. I think Jesek had a writeup on the process. My '85 wagon is a little different... I don't have the concrete mounting block. Nice pic of the relay location. Very helpful for everyone. Thank you, sir.

Beware of the remanufactured water pumps. I have heard a lot of failure stories. I like the new japanese brands. I put in an Aisain 5 years ago... no problems with it.

Ahh, yes... to bring the hill holder into the equation. So, there is nothing more to bleeding the MC? Thank you Gloyale. I'll be down in your neighborhood in a few weeks. Where is your shop... I'd like to stop by. PM is okay.

Hello all, I did several searches this weekend, but could not find how to bleed the master cylinder on an EA82. Manual Transmission with hill holder. I did not see any bleeder valves on the unit. The reason for bleeding is that I rebuilt both front calipers. All brake fluid was drained from the lines and the MC was cleaned up. I bled all 4 corners...several times. But still have a mushy pedal. Thanks for the help.

If the axle nut was just 'floating' around, then you may have several problems now. The wheel bearings could have excessive wear, the brake rotor could have be askew and now grooved or warped. Brake pads sound like they are toast. If you torqued the axle nut back to 140 lbs and are still having problems... then it is time to take it apart and access the situation. Plan on new bearing/seals, brake pads and rotor, new cone and spring washer, and a new castle nut with cotter pin. Also check the splines in your hub/rotor. How's your axle look? Did the calipers overheat?