rdweninger

it may help to unhook the + battery, then check resistance in the wires (ohms) .... rather than looking for voltage drop.

is the GL carbed or efi?

When you replace timing belts, always replace (or re-bearing) the tensioners and cogged idler. You will greatly prolong the life of your timing belts. Or... keep the old tensioners and replace your timing belts every 5-10,000 miles... maybe less. Either way ... don't need the plastic belt covers ... throw them away. Your next TB replacement will take 30 minutes. And inspecting the TB will only take a glance when the hood is open.

this is what bad contacts look like.

Firing Order is 1-3-2-4 Counterclockwise.

After reading all this ... definitely buy aftermarket axles. Please ship your old leaky, clickity, OEM axles to me in Oregon. Good Grief ... reboot ... reboot ... reboot. Don't forget the grease!

You need the 15008 for the 4wd EA82. Should be 225mm, 1" shaft diameter and 24 spline.

I have one from an '86 wagon. Should be the same as 90-94 ... minus the brake lamp.

Another way is the disconnect the neg battery cable ... then touch neg cable to neg post and look for a little spark. Helps if it is dark out (ie., nighttime). Most multimeters have a very low milliamp limit ... so, yes, you can fry your meter.

Sounds like this may be the same guy (aka MyWifes84). He had to re-register. Then he can't stop himself from saying 'I got no use for this place'. If that is true ... then get OFF this place.

is this an ea82 wagon?

cat is probably partially blocked. Some guys clean em out with a wire. Or, there is liquid fuel in the cat from no-start condition. All my 80's Soobs are cat-deleted. Take car on highway, run at 4k rpm until fixed. Make sure oil and coolant is filled correctly.

Retro Roo north of Denver. He knows the ea81. Been around forever.

+1 on ALL coolant hoses. I would just run a good quality dino-oil. I use Delo 15-40. It has all the military specifications. In a few months, buy a Weber 32/36 carb. You will be pleased with the results. The 35 year old Hitachi carb has ran its course.

do a google search for 'Subaru ea82 oil pump seal kit' You will see the 3 parts and what we mean by "micky mouse gasket". Also, listen to GLoyale. That 'hole' in the waterpump is a weep hole. It lets you know when the inner seal starts leaking ... which means REPLACE your water pump asap. Cooling systems are extremely important on ALL internal combustion engines. Congrats on the timing belt replacement - ALWAYS replace the tensioners and idlers. It's cheap insurance.

Thank you, GLoyale... Napa here I come.

where do we get this 5/8" evap hose? Anyone know?

I am just amazed at the $26.62 per gallon antifreeze. And he billed for 2 gallons! With a 6 quart cooling system, at 50/50 mix, only 3 quarts of antifreeze is required.

It is a 4wd. Seems to be a one piece. I found some bolts which I think came from the front bumper. The threads are dinged up. I'll run a die over them and try to thread them in. Thank you for the info, GLoyale.

So, on the fender bracket ... that bracket is always mounted? So the side bumper just slides over the bracket? Therefore, there is no need to remove nut from inside of fender?

hey everyone. My EA81 wagon came with the front bumper zip-tied on. I have a few questions.. 1. What size bolts do I need to attach the front bumper to the frame rails (4 bolts). Size and pitch? 2. On the fenders, where the bumper appears to attach to front quarter panel, the bolts (or nuts) appear to be sheared off. How does the bumper attach to the fender? Is there a clip that is bolted to the fender ... then bumper slides over/into the clip? Never had to remove/install ea81 bumper... Thanks for the help.

Keep trying Mizpah. He is always busy. You won't regret the results.

thank you for the info, GLoyale. I'll check the trunk light switch. The hatch was OPEN all day when I was working on the issue. I did see the clock listed on the fuse box lid ... however, when I pull the fuse, the clock is still on. Can you tell me what the door pilot is?

UPDATE... I ohmed the switch body to input. No continuity (infinite ohms)... All good. Ohmed the output to lights ... No ground issues there. Scratched head - ALOT. Plugged the brake switch in, put in 10 amp fuse ... brake lights work ... 2 days and fuse is still good. So, I think I fixed it ... for now. However, all I did was pull fuse box and blow out... pull wiring harness down ... inspect ... unplug and plug switch. There must be a hidden ground issue ... somewhere. Can anyone tell me if there are any other accessories (or lights) on the brake circuit? Could it be the reverse lights ... what circuit are those on?

Test Results. Ok... with the brake switch unplugged (at white connecter), the fuse does not blow. I actually put in a 5 amp fuse, rather than the 10 amp fuse... thinking it would blow quicker and not let the wires heat up. So, the problem seems to be either the brake switch or downstream to the brake lights. However, the brake switch seems to work ok. With pedal pressed, the brake lights come on. With pedal in normal resting position, the brake lights are off. So now, I test the green/yellow wire that goes to the brake lights (after it leaves the switch). I have 100% continuity with the bulbs in - this is correct. With the brake bulbs out, I have zero continuity to ground - good news - no grounded wire between switch and brake bulbs. So, it has to be the switch... right? Maybe the switching mechanism works ok .... but also has a faulty ground in the metal body of switch. How should I test this theory?