rdweninger

hello all. So I rebuilt one caliper last night. But there has to be an easier way. I read a few posts... and it was like... easy... not a problem. I was just wondering if anyone knows the trick. Evidently, I don't. The caliper is on the bench. First, I removed (unthreaded) the piston with the corny cube tool (couldn't find my Subaru tool). Removed the circlip and dust boot. Removed the inner seal. Cleaned everything. Lubed the cylinder with brake fluid. Installed new inner seal. Lubed cylinder and piston with brake fluid again. Now the hard part. I installed the new dust boot over the small end of the piston (the part facing the brake pads). Then started the piston to thread into the cylinder. I screwed it in until the collapsed boot (as it comes out of the package) nearly touched the caliper base. So I tried tucking in the bottom of the dust boot (it needs to be inside the cylinder about .25" and held there with the circlip. I finally got the lower dust boot in, but it took forever. Then, installing the circlip to hold the boot in place was another hour of my life that I will never get back. I still need to do the other caliper... but only when I store up enough patience for the job. I have considered installing the lower dust boot and circlip first. Then maybe try to pull the small end of dust boot over the piston, and begin threading the piston in. Once the piston is threaded in, then I would 'attach' the upper end of the dust boot securely to the piston lip near the pads. Sorry for the length... but it's better than... yep, I did it. It was easy! Has anyone did it this way? Seems like the boot would just pull out of the cylinder when you tried to pull the small end over the large end of the piston.

The oven trick worked for me. The reflective bucket was kind of rusted. I tried some 'chrome' paint... didn't work very well. Headlights still suck on the '85 GL. I will go with HID when I have some time this summer. Unless somebody wants to offer to sand and polish my lens. Until then, I drive the '83 4 headlamp model. Why, oh why did Subaru stop making that? Best car, EVER. Remember to put in a batch of cookies to bake... no sense in wasting energy ... and it makes a great snack for later.

LucasP ... where's the '83 wagon now. A buddy of mine is looking for a Soob for the same reason... mountain biking. You still have it?

Man, that hit home. I bought my first Subaru in 1993. It was a 1985 EA82 4wd D/R 5mt wagon. I bought the 4 door wagon to accomodate bringing my first born child home from the hospital - with car seat, diaper bag and Mom. Then the 2nd and the 3rd child. I still have the car today and am currently rebuilding the front suspension and steering. 240k, Weberized, and runs like a champ. I'm not sure who will get my beloved wagon when I pass, but will probably be my son. He drives an '85 wagon. My youngest daughter drives an '85 wagon. You see the pattern? Yes, your Dad gave you the car because he knew you would take care of it. And, this forum will take care of you. Welcome. By the way... Billy Idol rocks!

Thanks everyone. My machinist came out of semi-retirement. The axle nut is 24mm x 1.5 He had the die, so we chased the threads. The nut fits. I did think that the white oak dowel would not mushroom the axle, but I was slightly wrong. Next time, I will make sure the spin the nut on backwards and then pound with wooden dowel. Sure wish I could find my puller set. But most times, they come apart easily. Should have it all back together this weekend.

Subruise, I found one on ebay for $10. Although, still not positive on the exact size. And whether or not my current die handles (tool) will hold that big a die. Only one machinist out here in Tillamook... and he is semi-retired with a huge backlog of work. Maybe Shawn will chime in. He has an axle shop near him ???

Anyone know the thread pitch of the end of the front axle. You know, where the 36mm spindle nut threads on? I had to beat mine out with some Oregon white oak. The axle end kind of mushroomed a bit. I need a die to chase the threads. It would be like maybe M24 x 1.5

Dang, Ivan... you're good. Ivan, can you explain why the knock goes away when it is IN 4wd? The rear drive shaft does still spin when in 2wd. Carpyblue... you let us know if/when you replace the u-joint.

Thanks for the advice. I appreciate it. It rained all day Sunday... so I rebooted my axles and installed new bearings and seals in the front hubs. I will try my impact drill tonight on the shock nut. Maybe get an extra set of hands to hold the strut. That's a good point about the top mount orientation. I had not noticed that the spring is not centered on cups. Of course it is sunny today... wish I was home working on the Subie. Instead of being stuck in an office. Can't wait to get the front-end put back together. With new struts, mounts, tie rods, ball joints, wheel bearings, axles re-greased and booted, and new brakes... the little beast should drive like a dream. Hard to believe all that stuff was original. I bought the '85 in 1993 with 85k on it. So I can't complain that I have to spend $300 in parts to rebuild the front steering and suspension.

Hello all, '85 EA 82 Wagon 4WD 5MT. A couple of new repairs for me. The rubber boots on the right/left side of my manual steering rack are toast. So I am replacing them. But how ??? I have never replaced an inner tie rod... Does the boot just slide over the inner tie rod (after removing the tie rod end?) How does the inner tie rod connect to the rack? I really want to remove as much as I can... including the inner tie rod. So that I can clean all the road grime out - Boots have been wasted for a few years. Next, I have my front coil springs compressed with the proper tool. When I try to loosen the 17mm nut on top of the strut mount... the entire shock absorber turns (the chrome part). I tried clamping with a big vise grip, but the chrome part of the shock just spins in my vice grip. The lower part of the strut is securely held by my bench vise. I have new KYB's and top strut mounts... just waiting on my workbench. Thanks, in advance, for the help. 240,000 and still running.

Just be careful when you remove the first plate. I was able to save the 'tar'. It sealed up nicely. No gas fumes.

yes, Calmasters. I have the same wheels on my '85 wagon. Although, my chrome is starting to peel.

ya, you have to be careful with them. Kind of have to research the part #'s before ordering them. I had to replace a MAF on my '85 MPFI... Bought the wagon and the top of the MAF was missing. I think the guy thought there was an air filter inside it !!! Seriously. The one's on RA did not look correct and seemed expensive... although cheaper than the dealer ... whom don't stock the part. Found one at car-parts.com I spoke to the guy at the salvage yard via tele... he read the part # directly from the MAF unit.... it matched... he shipped it... it works... $55.

In the rear of wagon, passenger side, right above fuel tank, under carpet... there is an access hole. Remove the cover plate... it has a tar-like glue for sealing. Be careful now... you are about to encounter flammable fumes. So, finish your smoke, now. Undo the screws (maybe 8mm or 10mm bolt head or phillips) - don't recall exactly. Yes, unplug the e-connector. Pull out the sending unit. This is called a potentiometer. Depending upon the resistance of the ground, your fuel gauge needle will move. I carefully cleaned mine with carb cleaner and laquer thinner for better contact. Also, I had to bend the part that 'slides' up and down on coils so it would make contact the entire length of the coil. If you plug in the e-connect, and then move up/down the coils, your friend will see the gas guage move up and down. Key on? Like when it floats on top of the gasoline. In the old days, they actually used floats for fuel gauges. Probably a 30 minute job once you figure out how to loosen the carpet. I did mine from passenger rear seat and tailgate... then flipped it over towards the driver side .

I think the guy from Portland is on this forum. He should probably thank you for the tip on the Brat. In my experience, when you know what you want... don't hesitate.

Year and Model of subject? If EA82 wagon, I have pulled and repaired 2 sending units.

Hello All. Anyone have a current Discount Code for RockAuto? Seems like mine expires every 2 months... Thanks.

And this is what meth does to your brain !!! Fix your car or sell it as is for $250. Do NOT crush!

Been running the Weber on my '85 ea82 wagon since 1992. That's 22 years. I can park it in the pasture for 3 months, walk out there, put key in, set electric choke, turn key and vorruummmmm. Ya, it's a good swap. I would drive that car across this country tomorrow.

OK... here's the plan. We get 4 guys to split the cost. That's a grand apiece. Then we each get 3 months / year to drive it. Rotate the seasons. If the car breaks while you drive it - then you fix it. Dinky - you're out because Kansas salts the roads. And... you're from Kansas. Ahhh... just kidding. My Dad and brother farm 1200 acres in Colwich.

Tru 'dat. Timing belts should last a minimum of 60,000 miles. If you are on your 4th or 5th belt, Then there is something wrong with either your tensioners or cogged idler or pulley alignment. I have an ea82 wagon with 120,000 miles (12 years) on the timing belts and still going. Sometimes... I like to 'test' the reliability of replacement parts. And, I'm coverless. The manual on my Chevy Duramax states that I should replace the fuel filter every 20000 miles. Well... the last filter made it 85,000 miles before replacement. Oh... still have the original serpantine belt at 120,000 miles. Book said to replace that at 60k. Don't worry, boys... the new belt is in the back seat, ready to replace when it breaks. I should write a book, huh?

Ebay timing kits are good. They come with belts, idler and tensioners. As far as waterpumps go.... do not get the cheapo rebuilds. I like the Japenese made waterpumps. The cooling system is much too important to save a few bucks. I usually go for the Aisen brand. Double check your WP size... will be 105 or 110 mm. Search and read this forum to figure out what you have.

I used Mother's Back to Black. It worked ok... but fades within 2-3 months. I searched for a cheaper 'home solution'... but did not find any. Some guys have used plastic paint. I was afraid it would peel.

Been away from the forum for the long weekend. RE: The picture .... that is actually a $1000 wench.

You sound like me.... "Everything Must Work". And Yes, rotate the clear lense cover. At some point, it will clear the tabs and should drop down. My Hatchie had both corroded door switch and bad wire connection at the dome light. The screw holding the dome light in place is actually a ground connection... make sure both screws are present and making a good ground.