rdweninger

I've been out on Sand Lake a few years ago. Just S. of Tillamook. It was a wet day, so the sand was pretty well packed. No ill-effects to date. But again, I didn't get into the deep fluffy stuff... I'd need some sand paddles for that.

$995.50 Not a penny more. Good grief - no pics - look at the oil - transmission fluid - tires - cracked glass? It does have rust. My last 4 Subies were $200, $200, $100 and $500. The nice one was $200. Hatchie was $500... but I HAD to have it !!! But that's here in Oregon... sometimes, you just find them sitting in the forest.

Wait... I can sell you some timing belt covers. You should DEFINITELY re-install those !!! Ahhhh.... just kidding. All my EA82's are coverless. Didn't work on my Hatchie, though.

How many amps will your amp draw? Then we can size the proper wire and fuse. Fuse is important. I remember putting a 30 amp fuse in my big fat hot wire back in high school. Don't remember the gauge... probably 6. Then my little brother shorted the wire out (at the fuse junction) with an empty beer can. Guess why?

What happened to the bent control arm that was in the picture you posted last week?

Ahhh... I see. The fresh air is heated down there. It's not exhaust. Duh... me! At least now I know I need to replace my exhaust gaskets. That's where I hear the leak from. Thank you, Northwet !!!

1983 Hatch. This is the hose that comes off the exhaust and up to the air breather. All stock, at this point. I guess the hot air helps the car warm up quicker. Must be some sort of heat valve in the air breather snorkel that opens/closes at certain temps... right? Anyways, I bought a cheapo at O'Reillys. It was made out of tin foil... epic FAIL ! The dealer said they can't get them. What have you guys used as a replacement for this hose? Rock Auto shows the same universal tin foil piece of crap... so I'm not ordering that one. What do you guys for a replacement? Obviously, I don't have one now... so it's an exhaust leak and doesn't sound too cool !!! Cap it off? Oh... it's approx. 1.5" in diameter. Anyone have the exact measurement? Thanks ... Ron W.

Well, the 1985 FWD EA82 wagon with 85,000 original miles that I bought a year ago is NOT worthless. FWD in Texas works fine. And actually works fine in Oregon 361 days / year.

ok... I'm in. Where does one get this Glycerin? Off topic question.... kind of....why would you put it on your skin?

Looks like some yellow paint from the Les S. hydralic lift transfered onto your control arm. With the problems you are now experiencing, I would definitely take it back to them. Have them put it on the lift so you can show them the problem. Take your camera with you and snap (again) some photos while the car is on the lift. They should fix the problem. Ever since 'ole Les died, the company has changed. They are most concerned about profits now. Good luck.

Agreed... Les Shnob is worthless when it comes to anything other than tires. They totally screwed up my brother's pickup when they did his alignment. he had a very slight pull to one side. After they did their alignment, the pull was so severe that it was unsafe to drive. Two more trips back to Les Shnob and they still could not fix it. He took it to a different alignment shop. I believe the employees are told to suggest other repairs be done before they even look at tires. Like wheel bearings, shocks, struts, tie rods, brakes. I refuse to buy tires from them... I think they are crooks.

I had a grinding noise on my '85 wagon. 85,000 miles. My finely tuned hearing sense lead me directly to the left rear hub. Pulled the brake drum and found what was left of a few brake springs and clips. As others have suggested..... CHECK YOUR BRAKES !!!

Tru 'dat. RA has been good about making the order right. It's a mis-labeling problem at the warehouse. They think they are sending rightside tie rods... but when they show up at my doorstep, they are leftside. Today, I sent them pictures of a left and right side. Hopefully, they will forward those pics to the warehouse/shipping manager and have him visually verify that what they are sending is actually a rightside. If not, then I'll just NASCAR my Subie. Meaning... drive fast and turn LEFT. Just need to weld up the right side... Ha! PS... to the experts ... I know this won't work... but it's funny! For Sale: Left side Tie Rod Ends for ea81. How many do you want?

I bought the timing belt kit off of ebay... like $75. It's on my boy's ea82. Over 10,000 miles now with no problems. Make sure you replace both tensioners and the cogged idler when replacing belts. I've usually had good luck with Rock Auto. But recently, I order a left and a right tie rod end for my ea81. I received 2 lefts. So I called them and decided to order 2 rights... so I would have an 'extra' set of tie rods. Well, they sent 2 lefts again. The part # is correct (says it's for the right) but the part is actually a left. Soooooo, I called them and told them the story...they agreed to send 2 rights at no charge...duh! Well, I again received 2 lefts. So now, I have 6 lefts. And have paid for 4 of them... when originally I only want a right and a left and pay for same. So I'm into it for double the money, and still have no rights. I will call them later today.... not sure what I want to do though. Maybe give me a refund on the 4 I paid for and send all 6 lefts back? Then order from Subaru...

Check your timing with a timing light. Vacumn advance connected (no cracks in hose). A new cap and rotor might be a good idea.

Once the seal goes bad, the coolant will leak out the weep hole. At this point, the bearing has been compromised. So, when you see coolant coming out the weep hole.... you should probably get a new Japenese made water pump. And replace the 90 degree hose. Maybe heater hoses, also (they're cheap and will last 100,000 miles) Flush the system, clean the radiator, make sure you have a Subaru thermostat. I also pulled the plugs on the bottom of the heads to drain the water and crap that settles there. I think it's on the head... maybe block. Sorry, I don't quite remember... because I redid the entire cooling system 15 years ago and there are still no leaks. Ya... I'm that good! Ha. Wait... knock on wood!

My first question is 8600' elevation in New York? Google tells me Mt. Marcy at 5343' is the highest point in NY state. Did you hone or bore your cylinders? Where'd you get the ring set? Valves reground? I would drive down to the ocean shore and re-test. Let us know the results.

I had the pipe leak at the oring in Year 2000. I used blue rtv around the oring and it is still not leaking to this day. That's 13 years. If you do decide to replace the water pump... go with Japenese made. Aisan brand is one of them. Just know if you have the 105mm or the 110mm before you order.

Yes...Backflush the heck out the cooling system. Then use a chemical radiator cleaner... Drive it for 30 minutes. Then back flush some more. I always install a flush-n-fill kit so I can easily flush every 2-3 years. 50/50 on the antifreeze mix. And make sure you have a working Subaru thermostat. There is a big difference between the dealer thermostat and the aftermarket crap. BUY THE DEALER THERMOSTAT! And you might as well replace the hoses if they are suspect (read old). 2 heater hoses, 1 90 degree coming off the waterpump, and a 1/4" bypass hose up by the thermostat. Buy the upper and lower radiator hoses, just carry them with you if the originals are still good. Or replace them and keep the originals for emergency. It's cheap insurance... have I said that before???

Anyone ever use Monroe #84553 Gas Magnum for their EA81 wagon or EA81 hatchback? Both my EA81's (wagon and hatchback) are 4wd. Will the 84553 work on the rear of both vehicles? Let me know if you have used these? Thanks man. Ron.

Hello Subi-Guru's I need to order some Brake Pads from RA. The problem is I have a 1985 EA82 Wagon 4wd and there seems to be no entry on RA for the EA81 or EA82 (only a selection for the 1.8 H4... which could be either motor and model) Is there a difference in front brake pads between 1985 EA81 (Hatch or Brat) and the 1985 EA82 4wd Wagon? Anyone with experience buying pads from RA? Part #'s? Horror stories? Also, as you know... The rear is drum and shoes. Any difference between the EA81 and EA82 shoes same year 1985. I believe there is a difference for FWD and 4WD (like 7" or 8"). Thanks in advance. Ron W.

14 quarts in 500 miles. That's a quart every 35 miles. If you are not replacing the headgaskets, you can do it w/o pulling the motor... except the rear main (which rarely leaks). If the clutch is bad, then pull the motor for the reseal and the clutch replacement. Don't forget the grommets for the valve covers. Saudia Arabia called.... they want their oil back !

The different disty will be obvious. One has clips... one has screws to hold the cap on. I've read about the optical pickups... but never seen one. I've had 2 distributors rebuilt by Philbin in Portland, OR. The last one I mailed on Tuesday... they received it on Wednesday... then mailed it back to me on Thursday... I received it Friday. US Postal Service rocks. And it's cheap ($6). I think I paid $140 for the rebuild. A guy could do it himself for alot less money. If you can press on a shaft bearing, locate the electronic parts, some magnets???, and a new vacumn advance... maybe more. See what I mean??? I opted for the professional job. They have a big 'ole advanced diagnostic testing machine - probably Sun. Keep in mind though... I'll have my Subies for the rest of my life. So the investment is worth it for me. I worked for Seastrom 1999-2000. I fixed all their Y2K problems. He's got a really nice hydralic lift in his shop!!!

Nice.... Where's the winch? So, if you have a 2" receiver on the rear... and 12 volts... you can move the winch from front to back? Let us know how the 5000# works. I'm almost ready to purchase one (or two).

Ok then... I'm going with the bacon grease all over the interior. That way, when I drive the logging roads during hunting season, the bears will just follow me home. I'll shoot 'em in the driveway. No more packin' bear. Ohhhhh... I can't wait. This is gonna be easy!