rdweninger

Tru 'dat. Changing your fluids is SO important. Crankcase of course, always. Tranny fluid, Front and Rear Diff (3-4 years), Brake fluid (it really attracts water), PS fluid, antifreeze. I use a turkey baster to suck out most of the brake fluid every 2-3 years. Then refill and use a Mighty Vac to bleed the rest out from the wheel bleeder valves. Same for the PS fluid. It irks me everytime I read Craigslist and hear people saying "Subaru's last forever". Yes...Maybe... With proper maintenance. Although, someone help me... the guy at the parts store told me to change my headlight fluid. I can't find the fill hole !!!

Sounds like a relay. Under the dash - above left driver leg area - pull the fuse box - you'll see maybe 4 relays (2" cylindrical) - Replace with same relay or search for Loyale 2.7 's thread about upgrading to the Bosch relay.

The whizzing sound you heard was probably your friend whizzing under the front tires... causing the surface to become wet... thus losing traction while backing up the steep driveway. Or maybe tranny fluid or clutch. I wish more people would change their ATF at 20,000 mile intervals.

I found my replacements at NAPA. They recently set up a huge rack with tons of clips and fasteners. Check around... some NAPA's have more stuff... depending on space and/or management decisions.

Thank you all for sharing your experiences and expertise. I feel alot better now... knowing that I'm not alone on the zip-tie team. I have the zips as tight as I can get them (with the screwdriver/pliers).... Ahhhh... greasy... slip off.... STAB myself. I'll grab a needlenose and see if I can get them a little tighter. I wish there was a source for 1/4" x 4" worm drive clamps. Alliance-Express.com has 5/16" but their web site blew me off and they don't answer their phone at 2 pm.

Soooo... did you work for Subaru? Or is this what happened to you? It is only slander if the statement is false. So on the axle boot subject, I don't mind rebooting an axle. Just trying to find a good solution to attach the bands. The metal bands in the boot kit are a joke. Then NAPA has some universal bands... but the tool to tighten (crimp) the metal band is like $100. I'm looking at the plastic zip ties now... just need a good way to tighten them securely. Probably a tool for that also. My boots were from RockAuto and have the Raybestos brand name. Not sure of the quality. This is my first attempt at re-booting. I have several more boots torn on other Soobs...waiting for me to figure it out!

Hello All, So I have pulled the front axle and bearing housing in order to rebuilt the front steering/suspension. I cleaned and re-booted the DOJ and CVJ. However, the clamps that came in the boot kit are different with each kit. One has 'ears' and you buy a tool to squeeze the ears together. Well... that did not work ! The other boot has a slip in groove and the steel cable appears to have enough length to go thru the groove twice. Now what ? Try to pull it tight and then bend it 180 degrees back over itself? What ever! I'm going with the heavy duty plastic zip tie.... like Loyale 2.7 did. How do I pull that zip tie tight enough to ensure I have a good clamp? I did it by hand... trying to hold the square end (the locker end) with a pliers. I got it as tight as I could... but is there a better way or a tool to tighten it? Or is hand tightening 'good enough' ?

The original bearings in my '85 Wagon went for 210,000 miles. Heard the left side starting to rumble. So I replaced the both fronts with the same open bearings and new seals. Am looking forward to another 210,000. I LOVE GREASE ! Although... I did consider buying the sealed bearings. But in the end 4 bearings x add'l $5 = $20 .... and $20 buys me a case of good beer... so it turned out to be a no-brainer. Ha!

Yes, to the Purple Power and Pressure Washer. I bought an electric pressure washer that has 1600 psi. Really didn't want to use the 3000 psi gas powered washer. Funny thing about the Purple Power is that the directions say not to use on aluminum. Not sure why... cause it sure seems to work great. Nice paint job on the Hatchie !

My EA82 oil pump rebuild included the mickey mouse, another o-ring and a brown seal. Easy to reseal the oil pump completely once you have it removed. Nice find, for free? And I thought I was 'stealing' them for $200. ok... gotta go check craigslist for FREE stuff.

Good Grief. You flew from Vermont to Portland, OR to buy a used car? You're hard core. I complain if I have to drive to Portland to look at a car. Not many Subies in Tillamook... mostly farmers and loggers driving American and Toyota respectively. How'd you like all the green out here? We just harvested our silage for dairy cattle feed on May 1st. Grass was 3' tall.

Your engine DID NOT SIEZE. It was a timing belt tensioner that seized. The complete timing belts (2), tensioners (2) and idler wheel is maybe $80. The labor to install should no more than 2 hours. Any charges for un-seizing the motor should be refunded... because NOBODY can do that. Get a new mechanic... he is either an idiot or a theif. Ask your local USMB members for advice first.

This is what happens when you buy a new car... The minute you drive it off the lot, it depreciates 20%. My Dad told me this in 1980, and it is still true today. What's 20% of $32,000? Six Grand sound about right? So you buy a new 2013... then the 2014 comes out and you're not happy! So what happens when you buy a brand new 2015... then the 2016 model comes out? Are you going to cry all over again? If you don't like that feeling when the manufacturer comes out with a new model... then STOP buying new cars! My solution was this: 1985 GL-10 4WD 5MT,D/R PS,PW,PDL, Electric sunroof - $200 1985 GL-10 FWD 3AT White with Red Pimp Interior - $200 1983 Hatchie 4WD D/R - My favorite - Drove it 120 miles home over snow-covered roads for $500 in January. ALL my vehicles go up in value every year. And knowing that makes me Happy.

There's an EA81 wagon on Seattle craigslist (Morton, I think). The guy is going to scrap it if it does not sell. You get the wiring harness and parts for life. Truck and trailer required.

I'll meet up with you SubieFreaks. That's only a few miles from my place.

If you can see it, you can replace it. Very easy job.

So, a 1985 GL Wagon is 28 years old. By judging the condition of the air filter, it would be safe to say that this car was not maintained very well. If it were me, I would do ALL the fluid changes immediately, ALL the filters and ALL the belts and hoses. Keep the old belts/hoses for spares/emergency. Now for the electrical. Get some NGK plugs... check the cap/rotor... ohm out the plug wires... Everytime I get a 'new' Subie, I do all the maintenance asap. Start fresh. Get a log book... make your entries... and enjoy restoring your classic ride. Oh... don't forget to wash and wax. I mean... the car.

SubieFest??? Where is this held?

That "decent sized hammer" is usually referred to as a BFH. Very useful tool ! I was going to suggest it earlier... but thought I would wait... as it usually is a last resort. Glad you got it put back together.

Double check your timing belts. It's easy to get them off a tooth when replacing them. There is a sequence when putting the belts on. Driver's side - With the tensioner in the loose position (bolts tight), install the driver side timing belt to crankshaft sprocket, oil pump sprocket, idler and then camshaft sprocket IN SEQUENCE. With belt in place, loosen up the tensioner bolts. The spring will take up the slack. Apply18 lbs torque counterclockwise to camshaft sprocket and tighten the tension bolts (14 lbs). Now double check to see if flywheel hash marks and camshaft sprocket are still in their correct starting positions. Passenger Side: Rotate the engine 1 revolution clockwise...lining up to center hash mark. Align camshaft sprocket extra hole to notch on rear plastic belt cover OR if no plastic cover then line up to vertical valve cover seam). Attach timing belt to crankshaft sprocket, around tensioner then to camshaft sprocket in that order. Loosen tensioner to apply tension to belt. Apply 18 lbs torque counterclockwise to cam sprocket and tighten tensioner bolts to 14 lbs. Hope this helps.

Count the splines on your old axle, then the new axle. I believe the turbo axle had 25 splines. My notes say the non-turbo 23 spline is part # 80-5504 The turbo 25 spline part # is 80-5505 But the spline difference is only on the differential side... so not sure why you're having problems at the wheel side.

Thank you, NorthWet, for the clarification. Sounds like a good maintenance task to perform. So the governor valve is located in the previous picture? Above the gear? Sorry, I'm a manual tranny guy. The 3AT is in the '85 wagon that I will give to my daughter when she turns 16... After she performs ALL maintenance procedures. She's gonna hate me!

So, replacing the gear will fix the OP's shifting problems? Where did all the filings from the gear go? Hopefully, the transmission drain plug is magnentized. Would it be advisable to change the ATF?

How many miles on the EJ? So, Johns Subaru is not a wrecking yard. Where did they get the motor from and what's the history? Start making a list of the parts you need. And read up on the wiring harness changes. I think GD can make the harness for you... he has done alot of them.

I think your Brat was built/designed for the Austrailian market. The 'pouch' simulates the common Aussie marsupial known as the kangaroo. But seriously, my brother had a '85 Brat... and I remember he had some protective piece for his fun-tops and kept them behind the seat. I don't remember if he had a pouch. Not sure if any of it was stock... long time ago.