rdweninger

Hey everyone... play nice. I've been working with email (and online posts) since 1989. Heck... I practically invented it. So I will say this... ANY tone that you read into a message is YOUR OWN tone. It is absolutely ridiculous to say "I don't like your tone"...scoobiedubie. Now relax and smoke your dubie... I mean 'medication'. I for one, appreciate GLoyales's direct responses to questions asked. Thank you, for that.

Nice looking Subie! Mas Cervaza - More beer. Mui Grande Margarita - Very large Margarita. That's all the Spanish I know.... Wait... Taco.

UPDATE: So I removed the inner fender liner to replace the jug/pump (thought it was frozen/broken). Had to remove the charcoal canister, Air Filter assembly and move the A/C evaporator just to get at the nuts holding the jug in place. After removal of the jug, I found that the outlet was plugged with gunk. Cleaned all that out and tested the pump. Yes... pump works. Put it back together, and still no squirter action. Removed the squirters and cleaned them out with thin wire and air compressor. Ran the pump without the squirters attached inorder to clear the lines. A bunch of crap came out. Hooked up the squirters and now they shoot clean over the roof. Slight adjustment and now they work like never before. Rainbirds shooting cow poop... Here I come.

Change the transmission fluid and the rear diff fluid. I just picked up an '83 Hatchie... the rear diff was extremely low on fluid... about 8 oz. drained out. Should have been 32 oz.

Thanks Rob... that sounds mo easy.

Ivan... you say pull the inner fender well down. How so? Will the outer fender need to be pulled first? Then the inner fender well? I see the fluid resevoir neck coming out of the inner fender well... so I figured when I pull the outer fender body panel, then all would be exposed. I'm not very experienced with body panels... but I own a sawzall and a BFH.

So I need to pull the R. front fender, huh? What seems strange is that I can hear the pump from inside the car when I push the wash button. It sounds like it is coming from directly in front of the dash. I wouldn't think I could hear the pump if it is inside the fender. But that's where I'm going to start. The funny part of the story is that here in Tillamook County, OR... we have alot of dairy cattle. The farmers spray liquidfied poop on their grass fields for fertilizer. Big 'ole Rainbird sprinklers. Well... one of the sprinklers was not adjusted correctly and the spray was landing on the highway. No option, but to drive right through it. That's when I realized the washer pump was not working. I had to laugh to keep from vomiting. Imagine the smell.

Well, it's down to this after an engine pull, total re-seal, new clutch, new brakes, new fluids, rebuilt starter, rebuilt disty, oil pump, belts, hoses, etc. '85 EA82 wagon... when I push the front windshield washer button, I can hear the pump running (or maybe the relay?), but no washer fluid comes out the squirter tips (that's a technical term). Of course, I have washer fluid... it's full. I checked the visible lines and they are all connected... however, there does not seem to be fluid in them. I cleaned the tips with a very small wire. So my question is...where exactly is the pump? In the R. Fender well? It looks like I have to pull the fender to get at the tank and pump for a good cleaning and inspection. Anyone done this before? Ron W.

I have no idea what you just said. There is NOT one punctuation mark in your post. Come on, people, use some... ,,,,,!!!!!?????....(((( ))))) It is not that hard really fast got to go see spot run away from the booger man see what I mean girls But it sounds like you found your hazard switch ?

Drain and Refill the Tranny Gear Oil... for sure. Clean the magnetic drain plug well. Replace the drain plug gasket (yes, there should be one). My brother bought an '83 a few weeks ago. I suggested he change ALL the fluids. When he drained the Rear Diff oil, only a few ounces drained out. The top fill plug was only finger tight... oil must have been leaking out there when rear end was spinning. Save our Subarus (SOS)... people! Lubrication is Good!

I think you have to pull the pistons before you hone the cylinders. So on to pulling pistons...Also... I'm getting ready to pull the pistons in a spare motor that I plan to 'rebuild' in my spare time. However, I can not find the required piston pin puller tool. Can Nick or anyone else post a pic of their homemade piston pin pullers and explain how they work. I would be forever in your debt. Oh... it's an EA82 block. Does the EA81 require the same wrist pin puller? Maybe I'll start a new thread... eh? Thanks...

Sometimes, my disc brakes stick. Then it makes a very loud sound when they release. If the car is new to you... you should inspect the front brake pads, rotor and calipers. Then replace ALL the brake fluid and bleed the entire system. Brake fluid attracts water (condensation) and should be replaced every 2 years IMHO. Other than that, check you engine mounts, tranny mounts, cross member mounts. Make sure it is not in 4wd. Check/Replace tranny fluid. Good luck and keep us posted. Ron W.

How is it that everyone finds pugs except for ME ? Nice Brat. I need one! Or should I say... I want one!

What vehicle are you working on? I have two 1985 EA82 Wagons that have broken hood release cables. I just have a super secret anti-theft device tucked under my bumper to release the hood. But for $14, maybe I should fix it properly. Does the cable come with the T-handle (where you pull it)? I'm missing both mine. Thanks for the post. Couldn't see the pics, though.

They make good Christmas presents.. as well. Skylar... you find the problem yet?

I know... high schools suck these days. I took auto shop, wood shop, metal shop, welding, physics, chemistry, trigonometry... etc. Now, my boy (senior) is taking a class called Inhumanities... WHAT? There are NO shop classes. But he did take Home Ec (one of the few electives left). I feel sorry for the kids these days. That's why I bought a $200 1985 Subaru Wagon, 4WD, 5-speed with a blown head gasket. I made sure my boy knew that HE was responsible for fixing it. I was only there for guideance and muscle when he needed it. We pulled the motor and did a total reseal with all the goodies. He even hand-lapped the heads using GD's method with 1/2" glass. Now... the kid is set for life... I hope! Find a friend who is willing to tear into it and likes to fix things. It's a good source of motivation and sometimes helps if you can't figure out how to put it back together... ha! ... and don't forget the beer!

SubaruDude... I have had 2 EA82 distys rebuilt by Philbin. About $140. The last one I mailed on Monday. They got it on Tuesday. Rebuilt it. They mailed it on Wed. I received it on Thursday. They are located in Portland, OR. I am in Tillamook, OR. I sent it U.S. Mail First Class (only $1 more). You could do the overnight if it fits it ships for maybe $10. I highly recommend them. Let me know if you need contact info.

Ummm, it's Wednesday. Weekend is still 3 days off. Only takes a minute to check the vacumn line. Last night, I heard a rear brake shoe dragging on the way home from work. Got home, jacked up the car, took apart the RR brake assembly. Found a broken spring. Went to my spare parts box. Found a spring. Replaced it. Put it back together. All FIXED! Then, beings I still had plenty of daylight, decided to drain and replace the rear diff fluid on my other '85 Subie. And I just turned 50... so I might not be alive when the weekend comes !!! How will I know if you fixed it?

What's a multimeter? Ahhh... just kidding. But if you don't have one, you can go 'old school'. After you do the old school method, I'm sure you will buy one. I keep mine in the door panel storage cubby. It really impresses the ladies when I test their resistance! Ha!

Hey Scott, does your front bumper have a winch mount? Can you show a front view. Thank you.

There is an old school diagnostic procedure to check for battery drain. Key OFF. Disconnect your battery post ground. In a low light condition (ie., dark), touch the ground cable to the battery ground. You should see a very small spark. This indicates there is indeed an amperage draw. Now... start pulling fuses, one at a time. And check for the spark after pulling each fuse. When you don't see the spark anymore, you have at least found the 'circuit' that is drawing the amps. I would start by disconnecting the alternator and checking for the spark. On older external voltage regulators, sometimes they would drain the battery when faulty. I would think that a faulty internal VR could also drain the battery... but never seen one do it. Of course, your battery should be charged up first. HTH... Ron.

Come on... jj421 . Have you not read about the Felpro Permatorque HG's? That's what we use. torque them 5 over. No need to retorque...ever. I'm sure the O'Reily ones are the cheapest they could find... but I don't know... never bought HG's from them. FelPro 9392 PT. Ask for it by name. Accept NO substitutes.

I had a problem with my cable being too short (tight). If your cable is too short, it will not reach (with return spring) to your idle screw adjustment. Maybe this will help.

ivantruckman... I'd be interested in hearing/seeing the easy way to repair the e-brake side. I have not rebuilt my calipers... but I'm sure that time is coming. Thanks for the heads up.

Hey Mark. I just put new KYB's on the rear of my '85 GL Wagon 4x4. I used the 341216. These will fit your 89. I also put the KYB 341216 on my 85 GL Wagon FWD. They also worked. It seemed to me when doing my research that the manufacturers of shocks decided to split the difference between the 4WD and FWD rear shocks. Now they just make one shock that fits both applications. Remember, I talking rear shocks.