rdweninger

hey scoobiedubie. this forum was designed to help fellow Subaru owners. Telling someone that removing a rear axle is "pointless" is NOT helpful. Now... a good example of being helpful is demonstrated above when bratman18 offers him a set of rear axles. I wonder if you could have done that ? ... Lots of JY near Aloha.

Not that I know of. The piston seal is fairly easy. Tricky part is when the e-brake lever sticks. Are you thinking about making the writeup... or just want to see one?

Lacquer thinner in the gas tank??? Does this work... anyone with good or bad results?

If your torch is like mine... and uses a small propane bottle, you could get a bottle of mapp gas (yellow bottle). It burns ALOT hotter than propane. Just a suggestion. Hope it helps. Ron W.

The heater/defrost controls run off that vacumn. You should notice that floor/defrost/bi-level settings won't change when you push the button.

The picture of the sealant being used was on the oil pan. When I resealed my motor, I did not use a gasket on the oil pan. I used Ultra Grey. Use only dealer Intake Gaskets. Use FelPro permatorque head gaskets. To answer your earlier question... First remove the valve cover, then remove the cam tower, then remove the head. To remove the cam tower, you will have to remove the cam sprockets (up front - where your timing belt rides). How many miles on the motor?

If the car sat for 6 months like you said.... a battery with a dead cell can cause funky things to happen with your alternator. Try to pull a good battery from your other vehicle (or a friends) and see what happens. Do you have a volt meter?

Mexican models usually have long black hair.

Nice!

I have owned Subies for 20 years now. Been down the rocky road with non-dealer thermostats. So I only use OE (dealer) thermostats. I think I paid $20 for my last dealer t-stat....wouldn't mind paying less. So... What is this 'stant' theremostat we speak of? Is that a brand-name or a design feature? Who sells them and how much are they?

What? Another Oregon Coast member. Most everyone out here wants/drives Toyota PU. Congrats on selling the Hondas and buying the Subie. You won't regret it.

Click click... no start. Pull the starter. Replace the contacts. I have done this to 3 of my Subarus now. It fixed every one of them. Mailed some contacts to my brother in WA, and that fixed his starter. There are 3 small bolts (8mm head) at the end of the starter that hold a cap on. Remove this cap, then the plunger, and hopefully, you will see the problem. The contact on the battery side will be extremely corroded. Replace both contacts and file down the round copper ring (flat side) just until shiney. I paid $1.50 for each of my contacts. Parts stores didn't have them... but found them at a local repair shop. Subaru dealer might have them. Whole job takes about 30 minutes. Note: Disconnect cables from the battery. Remove the bolts (and one nut) from the starter. I believe one of these bolts will release the starter ground cable. Pull the starter with the positive battery cable still attached. When you get the starter up around the fender area... then disconnect the positive battery cable. Makes the job alot easier.

Did you try swapping the distributor? I know... I've posted this before. If your tach is jumping around... probably the disty. Let us know if the fuel pump replacement works.

I remember reading that the hose helps prevent vapor locks when the thermostat is closed - something like that. Also, as mentioned, to help heat the intake. I replaced mine with 1/4" heater hose purchased by the foot. Also used the 5/8" heater hose by the foot. I always install a flush-n-fill kit so I can backflush my cooling system every two years. You wouldn't believe the crap that comes out of there.

Shift on the fly to 4 HI. I think the manual says up to 45 MPH. Of course, put the clutch in, then shift to 4 HI. If you stop on the roadway to shift into 4HI, someone will rear-end you and you will die! 4 LOW only when stopped, transmission in neutral. Then up the goat trail.

Wow, lots of rust! Does Idaho use salt on their roads? I just traveled 93/95 from Courdelane to the border a few weeks ago. I'm thinking I should wash the undercarraige... now.

Rockauto just posted over on the For Sale board. 5% Discount Code: CA84365C7640 Expires on 6/30/2013.

My Hatchie came with a 2x2 stick. My '85 wagon came with a mop with handle. My other '85 wagon came with a broken off metal broom handle. I use Rockauto.com for alot of my parts. They are great on prices. Thing is, watchout for the shipping charges. When you place an item in your shopping cart... other items that ship from the same location (they have serveral) will show a 'truck' icon and may have text stating so. Sometimes it takes me 2-3 days to place my order. I try to think of everything I may need in the near future. NGK spark plugs for $1.58, Wiper Blades, light bulbs (check em all), disty cap/rotor, brake pads/shoes, brake springs, v-belts $3, ball joints, tie rod ends. Take some time going thru the parts listed for your vehicle. Then run out and check the condition of those parts on your vehicle. Use this code 1284260310449590 Code for Discount – In the How did you hear about us? field. Will save you 5%. Ship to a commercial address (your work, maybe). FedX rates are cheaper that way. Hope this helps... Ron W.

I had a similar bitchin betty.... she is now the ex-wife. The Subie runs alot better now!!!

Intake gaskets are $4 each. You need 2. My Subaru dealer is 80 miles away... they ship alot of parts to me. I just picked up an '83 Hatchie last month. I like the stick you use for the lift supports. I found some at RockAuto for $13. No more stick for me.

ok. I've had my illuminated "STOP LAMP" on for over a year. All brake lights work. Sockets cleaned. Wires good. I've checked the connections on that 'thing' inside the rear quarter panel. It looks good. So tell me... what is this "improperly rated bulb" all about. What's the rating? Currently, black electrical tape covers the illumination of the "STOP LAMP". Nice fix... eh?

Watch the tach when you are driving. Does it 'jump' all over the place? If so, have your disty rebuilt. It has fixed my problem both EA81 and EA82 in the past year. Philbin in Portland, OR. About $150. I used U.S. Mail - Ground $6 to ship it. They put everything in new. Bushings, pickups, vacumn advance, etc (whatever else is in there). Should be good to go for another 200,000 miles. I mailed it Monday. They got it Tuesday. Fixed it and shipped it out on Wednesday. I received it on Thursday. Talk about service! Worth every penny.

I was referring to the front diff fluid. It fills thru the dipstick tube. Same as the transmission fluid fills thru the dipstick tube. But true... when replacing the rear diff fluid... make sure to loosen the upper fill plug first to ensure that you can add new fluid once it has been drained. As far as the plugs, cap, rotor and wires... good for a tune-up... but won't grenade your engine/transmission. Congrats on your 'new' Subie.

Sorry about your ride. I believe the sticky post on page 1 was intended for situations such as yours... if the insurance co tries to lowball you. I would try to make them pay for the damage... ie... write you a check for the damages. If they 'total' the vehicle, they will probably want to take possession of it. Get all your receipts in order. Tally up the costs of the upgrades/repairs you have done. Stand firm. Honda's SUCK !!!

If the tach is 'jumping' around, could be the disty. Check all plug wires and coil. Sounds more likely to be TPS. Try cleaning the electrical contacts. Check voltage coming out of TPS. Should start around .5 v and climb to approx 5v at WOT. If you don't have a multimeter... buy a good one for $12. (OHMS, DC volts, AC volts) Otherwise, you will be guessing ALOT... and never KNOWING.