rdweninger

So what about the persistent front oil leak? Did you replace the front main seal, cam seals / o-rings, oil pump, when you did the HG's?

I just got the car back from GD's shop a few weeks ago... so I have not used the door lock. I live in the sticks... no crime here. So I just replaced the rear brakes... springs and clips came loose and were tumbling around the hub. Previous Owner must have done a "break job"... ha! So I am now driving the car to work to check out any more bugs that may appear... before giving it to my daughter when she turns 16. That's when I realized the driver door lock does not work. I'm still looking for my door panel tool.

okay... just thought maybe a fuse or wire had some sort of control on some sort of electrical actuator. You know... something easy. Been looking for my door panel plug remover tool but have not seen it for a while. I don't want to tear the plugs/panel up too much... so maybe not tonight.

Okay, so I'm not stuck in my car. The problem is the driver's door lock does not work. I push the lock button... but it will not go down (press in). Thus the door does not lock. I tried to lock it with the key from outside... but that does not work. '85 Wagon. First Subie owned with PDL. I know about the rear passenger door child safety locks... so the kids can't open the rear doors. Anyone ever heard of this? Thanks in advance... Ron W.

Ivan, That's good to know that EA82 use the thermoswitch with 12v... and EA81 uses the thermoswitch as ground. So the likely scenerio. Previous Owner ran into a pole. It is obvious from the smashed in bumper and new headlight lense. I bet they found a radiator from an EA81 and installed it. The wiring plugs were disassembled/modified/destroyed from the PO trying to figure out how to make the fan operate. They couldn't get it to work... so they drove it w/o the fan. Got too hot... Blew the HG. So I buy the car, reseal the motor. Go to hook up the fan. It's all screwed up. First found a blown fuse (probably had 2 12v leads... one from ignition and one from the EA82 thermoswitch). Replaced the fuse. Then check the wires from the thermoswitch with Multimeter... they go to ground (which is strange...you said they are hot). So I take 12v at ignition to the fan and use the EA81 thermoswitch to complete the ground. I'll double check the wire at the thermoswitch to make sure it is not 12v.

I bought my first Subaru 19 years ago . '85 EA82 5mt 4wd. The PO had hired a mechanic to remove the A/C and the mechanical fan and Weberized it. I still have the car, 125000 miles later, and have not put a water pump on it. I did reseal the metal pipe that goes to the radiator hose with some black rtv about 10 years ago. Also, living near the Oregon coast, it is nice and cool. Today's high will be 55 degrees. I have not heard my fan kick on since that hot summer 3 years ago. The one I'm working on now is also an '85 EA82 5mt 4wd. My son and I just finished it up last night. Bought it for $200, put $750 into it... including the total HG and reseal, Weber and other goodies. The kid put the whole thing back together. I just drank beer and pointed... LMAO. I signed over the title this morning. And, finally, GD just finished putting in a new old shortblock and resealed my other '85 Wagon. That one is a 3AT and FWD. Has 85,000 miles... original owner was the World Whale Foundation. My daughter will be the proud owner of that one when she turns 16. I hope the Kings start running soon for you. Getting kind of late for springers.

Yes, they usually have 2 fans with A/C. I removed the clutch fan off the water pump. I believe that fan is a major contributor of water pump bearing failure and/or gasket seal failure. So I just have the electric fan. I wired it up last night. Took the blue with red stripe and hooked that to a hot wire that is on with ignition. Then took the yellow wire from the fan and hooked that into one post on the thermoswitch (in radiator). Then attached the other thermoswitch lead to ground (used the existing ground wire from thermoswitch 2-wire plug). Now everything works correctly. The fan only comes on when the temperature is 200 degrees. Stays on until the temp drops significantly. Soldered and heat shrinked... should last another 200k.

yes... the fan comes back on when I remove the jumper wire from the A/C plug coming from the harness. I finally found a mechanical temp gauge in the megatropilous of Tillamook (more cows than people). I'll install that tonight. Then I can watch my temp and check to see if the thermoswitch (in radiator) ever closes. If it does operate correctly... I think I can just power the fan with ignition on... and run the ground thru the thermoswitch and then to ground. Fan should run when I reach the magic 200 degree threshold. Otherwise, I'll rig it with a dash switch like all the other idiots out there... LMFAO. Me, included! I truely believe this is why alot of EA82's overheat and blow HG's. My other '85 has never had a problem with the radiator, thermoswitch, fan or overheating. But it has no A/C or PS. Any sockeye running yet? I miss my summers fishing off SW Kodiak. Caught 1200 lbs of sockeye in 10 hours. Had a net, though.

Hello Ivan, yes, the fan still works. Didn't blow a fuse. I installed a mechanical temp gauge last night... but it does not work. I even tried putting the sensor in some 212 degree water to test it. No work. Back to the parts store today. The strange part is the fan is always on. Even with the thermoswitch wiring unplugged and the defrost OFF. So how is the fan getting to ground?

Well... I pulled the fuse by the passenger side strut tower, but the fan still runs. So I found a plug near the thermoswitch wiring harness that I had unhooked when I pulled the A/C. I jumpered the 2 wires, and the fan stopped. So now I need to test the thermoswitch. Get it up to temp, and see if the fan kicks on. I tried crossing the terminals on the thermoswitch... but only got a spark... and no fan. Anyone?... am I on the right track?

So the electric radiator fan circuit has 2 potential grounds? One is the ground thru the thermoswitch at high temp... and the other ground is if/when the A/C defrost button is activated? This is getting interesting...!

Hello everyone. I thought I knew how it worked... but it is not operating as I thought. '85 GL EA82. Originally had the feedback carb and AC. I removed the A/C and installed a Weber. So the fan is running ALL the time with the ignitiion on. Even when I disconnect the plug from the thermoswitch in the radiator. I thought the thermoswitch would complete the ground when it reaches a certain temperature... thus engaging the fan. But, again, the fan runs all the time with the ignition on... regardless of whether the thermoswitch is plugged in or not... cold or hot. Any ideas on how this works or how to wire it correctly? Thanks for the help... Ron W.

Hello all, I've searched, but could not find. 1985 EA82 I have what appears to be 2 sending units on my oil pump. One big, one smaller. Which one is the sending unit for the light... and which one for the gauge? (there is no gauge yet... it's a digi-dash) Neither one had a wire going to it. Also... can I just remove the PS pump and lines... plug them at the rack and then drive it for the next 100k? I've heard of a few people doing that. Has anyone ever had any rack problems when doing this? Thanks for your help... Ron W.

Benjamachine, hang in there. My '85 had the feedback carb. It had to go. I ordered the Weber 32/36 DGE-5A. My fuel inlet is on the driver side and faces to the rear... which is correct. I used the Transdapt #2107 adapter plate. I swapped the throttle linkage from my old carb to the Weber. I had to modify my throttle cable bracket to reach the throttle linkage. I just added about 5 washers under the bracket... and then threaded the bolts from the top. I used some longer bolts I had laying around. I believe the 5/8" hose that is going to the air breather is the inlet hose for the PCV system. Clean Air is drawn into the Passenger Valve cover from the air filter. You can 86 the Charcoal cannister. There will be 2 fuel vapor lines on the driver side. I put the bottom one on the 3rd nipple of my Fram G3499 fuel filter. The upper one I plugged off. I removed ALL vacuum lines, valves, electrical gizmos and brass tubing from my intake manifold (remove it first... some bolts on the bottom). I kept the EGR. But my other wagon has it plugged off. Only vacuum lines are heater control, Disty (from the Weber), Brake booster and one for the EGR. I can't help you with dual vacuum disty... maybe just run one from the intake. Swap them if it runs bad. I had to cut off about 1/2" of the manual choke cable aluminum attachment piece. (it is the most forward piece of the choke) I had to beat in the power steering resevoir with a ball peen hammer. Just a bit. The Weber is not 'perfectly' matched for the vehicle... but it did fire up on the first crank. Probably within 2 seconds. I didn't even prime it ! Good luck. Can't be all that bad... you live in Telluride. I've been there. Now get off the computer and get that Weber installed... Later... Ron W.

You don't need a fuel pressure regulator. I have 2 EA82's with Webers... neither has one. The fuel filter you buy will have 1 inlet, 1 outlet. These will be on opposite ends of the fuel filter (say 6 oclock and 12 oclock). Then the 3rd stub (nozzle, nipple) will be perpendictular to the first 2. This is the return line to the fuel tank. I'll get a Fram filter # for you tomorrow. Then you can cross reference it to any brand fuel filter. Ron W.

benjamachine... I just put my Weber 32/36 DGV5 (manual choke) in my '85 EA82 yesterday as the last step in my complete reseal and Weber conversion. I removed ALL the vacumn lines except the one for the brake booster and the heater controls. I added one vacumn line from the carb to the disty. Plug the remaining vacumn ports on the intake manifold. I kept the EGR but removed the charcoal cannister. I installed a fuel filter with 3 nipples (1 IN, 1 to Carb, and the last one coming off at a 90 degree angle goes back to the fuel tank via one of the fuel vapor lines). Plug the remaining fuel vapor line. The Weber's fuel intake is facing the rear of the car... the choke should be facing the front of the car. Hope this help.... Ron W. The car started on the first crank within 2 seconds. Didn't even prime the Weber... and only eyeballed the distributor.

hey... I had a similar problem with my '85 EA82. It was hesitating and bucking slightly under a load. Downhill and rpms > 3500 it ran OK. Turned out to be the distributor. I swapped in one from another car... actually an EA81 disty. And it fixed the problem. Although, another symptom I had was the tack was jumping around. Not sure if your tach is doing this. Try swapping distys. I had the disty rebuilt for $150... Philbin in Portland, OR. Hope this helps... Ron W.

Hello everyone, '85 EA82 with AC and PS. I removed the AC components during my reseal project. But when putting the alternator back in, I realized that the top bracket mounts to the top of the AC pump. So I had to install the AC pump and then the alt. bracket on top of that. Does anyone have those brackets I can buy. Or is there a secondary market I can buy them from? No JY nearby... so pulling one is not an option. Thanks for the help... Ron W.

I figured that was the tube Ivan was speaking of. I just don't have a good way to get the pics on this board. Good news for me is that I have not put any oil in the motor yet. Just sitting on the stand, waiting for my boy to show up this evening. I make him do all the work... I just supervise. Then stretch the springs, add oil, prime the oil pump, install the new timing belts and tensioners. Hopefully will get the engine back in and hook up the Weber and take it for a drive on Sunday.

So Ivan (or anyone who knows), where exactly are the 14mm nuts with springs and valves. I am in the process of resealing my EA82, and have not seen them. I have the valve covers back on... do I need to remove the valve covers and cam towers to access these springs? Thanks... Ron W.

I just rebuilt my oil pump on an '85 GL. That same hole was on my oil pump. I cleaned it out. Then replaced the mickey mouse o-ring, the large 2" o-ring on the back side, and finally... removed the 12mm nut from the sprocket and removed the shaft to replace a brown 1" oil seal. I had to hold the back gyro gear (4 lobes) in a vice with wood to protect the surface. Hope this helps... Ron W.

ok... I'll pull the #1 plug and check for the compression. Then rotate to next TDC. Then install disty pointing to #1. I'll check the cam sprocket timing 'hole' and note it's position. Of course, turning the crank clockwise (from front of engine). GD... I'll call you at 3pm, my breaktime. Running is good. Any problems?... or is it ALL good.

Just to verify... There are two full rotations of the crankshaft to one rotation of the camshaft. So when I am putting the distributor in... how do I know if I'm at TDC of the power stroke or if I'm at TDC of the exhaust stroke? Is it simply the 'extra' hole on the passenger side cam sprocket pointing to 12 o'clock? Yes, No or maybe a better explanation? Maybe this will help the guy with "FireBack".

It is 1-3-2-4 Not 1-3-4-2 as you posted. Also it is counter-clockwise. With #1 being closest to the firewall. Hope this helps. Ron W.

Thank you CZNY! Enco, in stock, $8.93, Shipping $7.98. U.S.A. Anyone on the flywheel step specs or the Loctite 515 ???? roN)s Mashine shopp