rdweninger

Hello Everyone... again. ok, '85 EA82, OHC, 4wd. 1. What is the flywheel step... .890 or .815? I've seen both here. And the machinist in town does not know what it should be. 2. Where in the heck do I find a M11 x 1.25 tap so I can chase my head bolt threads. I found 1 on Ebay... ships from China... boat takes a long time to get here!!! 3. I have a bottle of Loctite 515 for my flange sealant. Alot of talk about the Loctite 518. Anyone ever use 515? And how are the results? Thanks... Ron W.

Good call, GD. I will find a large guage wire from my harness to use. There should be one there from the feedback carb setup that was used for it's electric choke. On a side note... I picked up a 16" x 24" piece of 1/2" glass yesterday. Got my 220 grit glued down (2 sheets)... and resurfaced one head in about 30 minutes. Turned out sweet. The machinist here in Tillamook (only one) wanted $110 to resurface the heads. But he was heading South for vacation and won't be back till end of May. Thank you for all your help. Rebuild is going slow... but steady. Ron W.

cool beans, Shawn. Thank you for post. So no problem with the single barrel vs the new double barrel Weber. And, the computer runs the fuel pump when it sees crank signal, right? Which none of that is changing. Ummm, in my haste to rid the Subie of the feedback carb... I did not take note of what wire hooks to the electric choke. Any knowledge of where this wire may be? Color... hopefully. Off topic, can you PM me. I have some highly classified material I need to discuss with you.

hello Subie Nuts. '85 EA 82 1.8l PowerSteering. No A/C. 4wd I've got the engine torn down to the block. I Have all the replacement parts/gaskets in my possession now. Machining will be finished on Sat. So it's time to put it all together now. However, I have the feedback carb with O2 sensor in the exhaust and etc. I'm going with a Weber... so I have 2 questions. 1. I see several models of the 32/36... which one do I need? 2. Do I need a different intake manifold... like one from a Hitachi carbed EA82? Thank you all for your advice. I appreciate it. Ron W.

Gloyale... right again. I pulled the throwout bearing off the driveshaft and yes, one of the ears on the backside was broken off. I'll order the clutch kit today. But someone tell me, what does 81ea81 mean by "it will have to be pressed on". I simply unhooked the side-wire-clips and the bearing pulled right off. Will I have to press the new throw-out bear into the shaft??? Or is he saying the bearing will have to be pressed into the cage assbly? And then the pilot bearing. So, I'll be seeing this after I pull the pressure plate and disc? Will the old pilot bearing come off easily? Thanks for your help... I appreciate it. Ron W.

please tell... what brand water pump was that? GD says the Aisin brand (Jap) is the best.

here is the pic. It is an attachment. does anyone have any suggestions on clutch kits. I read that with the 4wd, I need the 8" kit (or something like that)

Hello everyone, So I got the engine pulled Sunday. I found a piece of metal sitting in the bottom of the housing (the big round thing with a drive shaft in the middle and what I used to call a throwout bearing). I wish I had a digital camera... but it is a flat piece of metal about 1/2" x 1/4" and 1/16" thick. It looks like the top half of a block letter H. It does not look like a finger on the pressure plate. Anyone know what this could be? So, I think it would be wise to order a clutch kit. It's been 20 years since I replaced a clutch... so I would like to hear what kits would be sufficient and where to get them. And what bearings do I need? The subject vehicle is 1985 GL Wagon, EA82 1.8 liter, 5mt, 4wd D/R. I'll try to borrow a digi-cam and post a pic tomorrow. Thanks for your help. USMB rocks. Ron W.

Welcome to USMB. I personally have never swapped out the AT for the 5mt. Although, there are several members here who have. Alot of them in the Seattle area. Anyone with specifics ? Anyone in the Seattle area who can do the work?

Bought my first Subie in 1993. The guy told me that alot of people had come to look at it... but got scared off because he had put a Weber on it and had lost alot of the emissions hardware. It was a 1985 GL Wagon (only 8 years old), 4wd, 5mt, D/R. I needed a four door because my wife was pregnant with our first child and we need the whole infant seat / baggage room scenerio. I bought the car for $1200... came with an additional set (4) of studded snow tires. I brought all three of my newborn children home from the hospital in that car. It was the family wagon. Got divorced in Year 2001. I got the '85 Subaru in the divorce valued at $400. Yes, guys... you have to PAY for your half of the assets (like I had to pay $300 for my 8mm Mauser hunting rifle that I had since I was 16). I still own the car. I have done nothing to the motor. Only one set of brakes, a few caps/rotors, new plug wires, one fuel filter, 2 front axles, a preventative timing belt change at 160,000. The car currently has 205,000 miles on it. I just bought my first and only new set of tires for it a few months ago (I ran out both sets that it came with). I drives SO much better now. It has primer on it in several spots... still need to paint it. When I stop for fuel, I always tell the attendent "NO... it's NOT for sell". They always look at me funny... like why would they even think of buying it! Owned it for 19 years now. Thinking about putting it up for sell soon... will probably list it at $10,000. Ok... I lied. I WILL NEVER SELL THAT CAR !!! If they would let me... I would be buried in it. (Have you priced coffins, lately). Ha... Ron W.

ok. I'll check those connections... tracing back from the solenoid. Thanks for the tip.

Hello Rick, by the connections for the crank circuit, are you talking about the starter contacts? I just replaced those on my other '85.... had the click click but no start syndrome. Got the new contacts from a repair shop here in town... the guy didn't seem too happy to sell them to me. Charged me $2 for both contacts. Can I measure the voltage/amp draw on the wire that hooks up to the starter solenoid? I could have my son run the ignition while I read it with my multimeter (has ohms, dc and ac volts) I don't think I have anything to read amps. Ron W.

no progress last night. I put the battery back into my DD. I will swap batteries this weekend and then energize the spade terminal on the solenoid. Does anyone know how many volts I should be getting from the ignition at that spade terminal on the starter solenoid. Maybe I'm not getting the proper amount to engage the solenoid? I'll report back on Monday.

OK then. I've done my homework. Let me first say, thank you to all for the input. And yes, GD, I would gladly buy both a long (110mm) and a short (105mm) waterpump... if RockAuto sold both sizes in the Aisin brand... but they only sell one Aisin (Part #WPF007), and they do not say what the height is. So, I did search and found Aisin Part #WPF133 at AutoPartsWarehouse, and it says it is the 105mm version. But no size on the WPF007. Further searching tells me that 1985 EA82 GL's n/a look like this... w/o AC = 110mm w Dealer AC = 110mm w Factory AC = 105mm and no mention of whether it is SPFI, MPFI or carbed. And, now... that contradicts MilesFox. So much for ordering my parts upfront, huh? I'll pull the engine this weekend, pull the pump, measure it on a flat surface and then order it. All I need to know is this... What is the height of the Aisin #WPF007? And who carries the NPW? Have not seen any of those online. Sucks not having any good parts stores in Tillamook. NAPA is closing soon... and that leaves O'Rielly... which is worthless.

thank you both for the replies. I tried to measure to waterpump, but seems impossible with the fan, pulley and all in the way. Maybe I'll call the Subaru dealer to see if he can get me a height before I order. I'll check ebay for the tensioners. That's a pretty good price if both belts, tensioners and the idler is included. Thanks for the lead, Rick. Okay, off to class now. Ron W.

Hello all, I need a little advice on some parts that I'll be ordering soon for the reseal. I'm looking at RockAuto and they have a couple of water pumps. One is 4 5/16" and the other is 4.087". Vehicle is 1985 GL-10 Wagon, A/C, PS. the a/c pump is between the PS and the alternator (I guess that means factory or dealer installed). So what water pump do I need? Any advice on brand names? Also, looking at timing belt tensioners. They have a few brands out there. Any suggestions on a good brand? Thank you all... I appreciate it. Ron W.

Here is the update. I checked my grounds at the starter, battery, block to body. All look good and the cables look good. Still no bump with starter... and then ignition/dash/lights power is lost. Same as original post. I'm going to put the coil back in tonight to see if that makes any difference. Maybe the coil somehow completes the ignition circuit?

Ok... consensus says to check the grounds. I'll try this tonight and report back to everyone on Wed. Thank you for the replies. Ron W.

Hello everyone, I have an '85 GL wagon EA82, 5mt, 4wd, A/C, PS. I bought it recently... PO said it had a blown HG. So I want to turn it over first before I pull the motor and reseal to make sure it is not seized. I can't get a socket on the crankpulley bolt (due to Rad. and fan clutch and front end damage). So I try bumping the starter... When I turn on the ignition, I get dash lights and the fuel pump starts. Then I bump the starter and everything goes dead... no dash lights, no fuel pump, no ding ding bell. Nothing. And the starter didn't bump. So I unhook and then rehook the battery... I get dash lights, fuel pump, etc. Then bump the starter and everything goes dead. I am not blowing any fuses. The battery is out of my daily driver. The coil is missing... I put it in the DD. Does that matter? Any clues from the gurus? hey that rhymes. Thanks for any help... Ron W.

Sorry on the delay. As soon as I posted the thread... I was asked to take my snowmobile up to Mt. Hebo to figure out why the emergency communications generator did not autostart after we lost line power. Probably 6 feet of snow up there. Looks like 4' was new. Alot of shoveling with the 'SnowClaw' just to get the door open. Got the generator running, though. So thank you for all the advice. Sounds like the belt sander worked well. Did you cool the glass down with water occasionally? Then dry it and more sanding? I'm still trying to find the exact kit I need. The ebay ad was removed. Anyone have the part # of the kit they used and where you got it? thanks for your help... I appreciate it. RW

Hey everyone! OK. It's time to upgrade the headlamps. Almost drove it off the road yesterday morning at 5 a.m. I want the hid's... I think. Anyone with experience purchasing them (price and location) , installation and finally... the results of the upgrade. I have a new lense can (is that what they call it?) for the left side. It was quarter full of water and rusty. I eventually want to upgrade the alternator to a 90amp. GD... I saw once that you had one for $100... still got it? But for now, the hid's use less amperage so I'll upgrade to those for a quick fix. Will the Hi and Low Beams still work? And any info on the ballist... if it comes with the kit and how/where to install it. thanks for any advice. 8" snow in Tillamook. 12" at my place.

thank you for the offer GD. However, I'm using Keen-serts. I've already got the drill, tap and insertion tool the size I'm using for the exhaust studs. I just need to know the threads for the head bolts. Which now I know is M10 x 1.25 Which is the same as the exhaust bolts. Only difference is the depth of the Keen-sert (read length). I'll use something between 20 & 30 mm. Depending on what they offer. I just want to be prepared... beings I'm a long way from town and I'm planning on getting this done in one weekend. (Hopefully). Still gathering parts!

So, I'm pulling the motor in another '85 EA82 and will be doing a reseal from the HG's up. I want to be prepared for head bolts stripping out. Anyone know the thread size for head bolts? And what length of heli-coil goes in there?

hello everyone, I'm planning on pulling the motor and doing a complete re-seal on a 1985 GL-10 Wagon, 4wd, 5-spd, Carb. I plan on doing the work during spring break -last week in March - with my 16 year old son who thinks older Subarus are the shee-aught ! I'm pretty remote, about 45 miles SE of Tillamook, OR. So I want to get my parts lined up well in advance. There's a few Fel-Pro gasket sets out there. Does anyone with purchase experience have the part# or kit # that will work best for me? ie., all in one kit. And the source? The current condition is white smoke out the tailpipe, so I'll be starting with the head gaskets. FelPro Permatorque (in the kit?). I want all new seals and gaskets from there up. Including a new waterpump installed. I also plan on resealing the oil pump. Was this in your kit? Transmission drain plug seal? Distributor o-ring? From reading previous posts... sounds like I should get the intake gaskets from Subaru directly. And maybe the cam tower o-rings from Subaru? Or has FelPro got the good ones now? Thanks for your help. I really appreciate everyone's knowledge. By the way, after the motor is back in and running (finger's crossed), I'm giving the car to my son... his birthday is right around the corner. And no... he's not spoiled... believe me, I work the hell out of him! But at least he's learning.

Hello there GD. I read a previous thread where you said 7/16 x 20. I guess that's a fine thread. Is the 14 better? I think I'll go with drilling them out and tapping for 7/16. I've got a friend who works for Cascade Nut & Bolt... he can get me some deals on stainless hardware. How deep are the existing holes or the insert coil lengths? My brother thinks I should go with Keenserts. Uses standard drill bit and tap. You can see them at http://www.newmantools.com/kee.htm Off topic... my '85 Negro decided to kill all it's electrical equipment. The alt. went out, the disty went out, and starter. I replaced the alt. with a spare I've been packing around for 10 years. The disty is being rebuilt at Philbins. And I found the starter contacts here in Tillamook for $1.98 / pair. I filed down the copper plunger ring and all is well.