rdweninger

Hello all. My wiper motor on my '83 Hatch does not work. I have power to the wiper motor (at plug connection). But no wiper action. Question is... will an ea82 wiper motor work? Or anything I can check at the motor? Thanks in advance for any wisdom on this subject.

For gosh sakes ... please don't tell her what you used HER toothbrush for!

You need to pull the sending unit out of the fuel tank. When you look at it, you will see how a potentiometer works. As the float moves up and down, it grounds out the potent-wire at different points - Thus, giving you different readings on your gauge. Make sure the float is making contact at all points on the coiled wire. Maybe have someone watch the gauge while you move the float up and down. Not saying this is your problem, but I have fixed 2 fuel gauges this way. Good luck.. hope this works.

You might consider going with an electric choke ... no cable to run to interior and no need to fab a mount in engine bay.

Like DaveT says.... you cannot just push the pistons back in... you have to screw them in.

Now that you have the belts on, move the crank so you are at TDC cylinder #1 on the compression stroke. Double check this by pulling the #1 plug and feeling air pressure with finger over plug hole. You should be very close to the 0 mark on flywheel. Now install disty so the rotor is pointing towards the firewall and somewhat towards the driver side (This is #1 wire). When you pop the cap on disty, make sure #1 wire is going to #1 spark plug. Firing order is 1-3-2-4 Counterclockwise. 1 and 3 are on passenger side. 2 and 4 are on driver side. #1 is passenger side frontmost. #2 is the driver side frontmost.

What DaveT said ! That's why we leave the covers off. Makes replacing timing belts about a 30 minute job. Sorry to hear about the breakdown. If you're not in a rental car yet, then maybe some forum members are close to you and can help ... a lot of them in the Legacy section.

Keep us posted, Mr Ed. Are there any junk yards on Kodiak? If so, take a cruise and see if they have any old Subarus. A lot of parts will mix and match. Also, utilize the Market Place on this forum. A lot of guys sell parts here. Best Subaru user community is here !

Question for SkiShop ... did Rockauto show bushings for DL and GL? I have a hard time believing that the control arms are different between GL and DL trim packages.

Probably not a OEM part #. The part # would be for the entire assembly. Whom ever presses the bearing out, will mic it out, then you can buy a replacement. Like take the old one to Bearings Inc. and they will measure it and sell you a new one. Who knows, they might have a press operator who can do it all for you.

I was able to source a new release bearing in the clutch kit I purchased. Sometimes, you just need a new bearing, though. It would be nice to find a replacement (aftermarket) for the oem.

Dude, that thread is 10 years old. I recently tried to order a throwout bearing from Soob dealer. They were not available. If I were you, I would start a new thread for specific information.

yes, undo the bolts and pull out the sending unit. Unplug the wire first. It will be somewhat 'glued' in with a black sticky gasket goop, which is obviously gas-proof. You will see a potentiometer, where the float 'grounds' the wire. I had to slightly bend the part where it makes contact with the coiled wires ... that was 6 years ago, and my gauge still works today.

How many miles were on the wagon before you pulled the motor? I didn't realize you could split the block to remove the rod caps ... how much room did you have, and how hard was it?

The clicking sounds like a front axle (CV joint). Check your axle boots for tears. Clean, re-grease and re-boot if needed. Aftermarket axles suck. The idle issue sounds like it could be the Coolant Temp Sensor. There are instructions on this forum on how to check with a multimeter. Buy a multimeter if you do not already own one. Nice XT .... I don't have one of those ... for some reason.

Oil Clean? Coolant Clean? Any gunk on/under the oil and radiator cap? ie., head gasket issues. Check the back timing belt covers for signs of excessive heat ... will look like it actually melted the plastic. Windshield leaks - rust and/or water on floor boards. And 100 other things.

Congrats on your Weber swap. I always knew you would get there ... eventually. Thank you for the write-up. I'm sure everyone appreciates your contribution.

remove the front center grill ... then figure out how the latch works (ie., what lever is the cable pulling?). Then pull that mechanism.

First, get a multimeter and measure the volts with meter ... do not trust the dash meter. Second, I believe the ea81's had an external voltage regulator. Third, maybe pull the alternator and have it bench tested at an auto parts store. If you go with Nissan alt, then yes, you will need to modify the pulley, belts and the wiring. If you don't need more than 60 amps, no need to do the swap... just stay with stock.

Glad you got it out. I like to grease them good before re-assembly. Then a few taps on the castle nut works for next time. Your shop must be heated. Too cold for me to work outside!

Soak with CRC or other penetrate. After loosening the castle nut, spin to top of threads. Slightly hammer on top of nut. Be careful not to damage threads. Sometimes helpful to bang on side of hub. HTKYSA also mentions prying with 2x4 using leg. Bang, bang, pry pry. If that does not work, try a pickle fork ... careful not to damage rubber.

I just flushed my heater core today. Actually, my helpers did the work. Disconnect both hoses to the heater core (closest connection to engine)... Not the firewall. Flush both sides. I used one of those brass sprayer connectors to a garden hose. It brought my heater back to life. Heater HOT now.

Yes, I'm on the mend. Dr says no lifting more than 10 lbs for 3 months. I have some time off work for the surgery, FMLA. I sooo want to reseal my '85 wagon. On the throwout bearing, I know you can just punch out the old bearing, and replace with new bearing in the carrier. I just need the bearing # ... like a 6207 or something. I ordered a few 6201 ... which is the pilot bearing. Also, the 6207 is the wheel bearing. I just need the # for the throwout bearing. I can get the #'s off it when I pull it, but would like to have one ready to go. Thanks for the good wishes. Merry Christmas, all you Soobie enthusists.

Hello all. I've been off the forum for quite some time. I had emergency open heart surgery. I'm on the road to recovery ... and will have some help pulling and re-sealing my '85 EA82 4wd. My question is: What bearing do I need to replace the throwout bearing? I will just punch out the old bearing from the carrier ... but cannot find my notes on what bearing I need for replacement. I do know I need the 6201 for my pilot bearing. Anyone know the throwout bearing # ??? Thanks for the help. I appreciate it.

Hello all. I always read about the missing set screw (my ea82's are all 1985)... now it seems as though I bought one. It's an '89 DL wagon, AT, 2wd, EFI. I need to buy a set screw, anyone know what size? And curious what years ea82 had the set screw? Thanks for the help, I appreciate it. RW