rdweninger

There is a 1/4" bypass hose that runs from your intake to thermostat housing. Check that for leaks. Sometimes, the hose will only leak when the coolant is up to boiling temp ... then steam will spray out of the damaged part of the hose. And 1/4" is the ID.

Definitely drain your oil/ATF mixture. I usually only run that for about an hour - then drain and fill with fresh 15-40 Delo.

If you did not put the timing covers back on, you can check to see if the cam sprockets timing marks are at 12 and 6. My first Soob , the timing belts were one tooth off. I had no experience with Subarus, drove it for 6 years with the timing off. The car ran 'okay'... Then found the problem when I decided it was time to change my timing belts. With the covers off, I found the belts were off 1 tooth.

When were the timing belts last changed? How many miles are on the Loyale?

After some more research today ... I am thinking it may be the flex plate. Does anyone have a source for flexplates? I would think there may be some part # interchanges.

Dude, that's Mike Ditka your talking to !!! I never knew he was a Soob Nut.

Here is the story ... Car had 85,000 miles on it when I bought it in 2013. HG's were shot, so I had GD pull the motor and put new HG's on. He then convinced me the motor had rod knock, so he bought a junkyard short block and installed that. So, yes, the motor was pulled. After I got the car back (3 months later), I noticed the whining sound coming from the torque converter. It would kind of 'go away' after a few miles of driving... but could still hear it faintly. So, something he did when he put the motor back in, was eff'd up. Now, 10,000 miles later, the whining is paired with an 'errr' 'errr' sound. Does this immediately upon startup. Sound continues when in Drive, Reverse, Neutral, Park. After the car warms up for a few miles, the sound subsides a little. Sometimes, it will stop... then come back again. ATF has been changed twice. Fluid levels are good. I saw on RockAuto, they sell a sleeve. What is that for? Or, do I need a new torque converter?

After you get the water pump replaced, you will understand why we ditch the timing belt covers. I always remove the radiator, just to have more room to work.

hey Forrest, will that 3AT FWD from the '82 coupe, fit into my '85 EA82 wagon?

hello again. I got my '85 EA 82 wagon running again. Turned out, most likely, that the IAC was sticking. Now, I hear a sort of whining/grinding sound coming from the bell housing. The car is 3AT, FWD. In my limited AT experience, it sounds like the torque converter is making the noise. Does anyone have any experience with these 3AT's ? Maybe a sleeve replacement ... help !

yes, what Naru said. It might be well-advised to do both sides. For some reason, those parts fail at about the same time. Also, check the wheel cylinders for leaks. Rebuild them or buy new. Now is a good time to flush the old brake fluid out. Welcome to the Soobie Club.

Thanks for the replies... however, I must be missing something. I read about the Ford F-150 fuel pump ... but I thought that was EFI. My 1985 EA82 wagon is carbed. Jeszek, did you put a new fuel pump in your Beast? If so, what year F-150 should I be telling the parts guy to lookup on his computer?

Hello all. I need a new fuel pump for my carbed EA82 wagon. Has anyone ever bought one from RockAuto or local parts store? Or know of a replacement brand and part number? I would like to go with a new one ... ie, not used.

Naru, question about the harness posted above. I have similar problem, I have found the common ground above the fusebox... However, could you identify more specifically the harness (where and what wire to probe) and what you mean by battery negative (is that a known good ground). Thanks in advance.

Yes, I checked the tube for cracks. I actually removed the entire tube from MAF to throttle body... Cleaned with carb cleaner... re-attached and ensured everything was tight and additional lines were attached. When the plug is unplugged (as it is now), the ECS dash light is on. However, no other dash lights are on. Not sure if there is a check engine light on this model. So, next, I will get under the dash to check to light flashes on the ECU for any codes. Anyone else have any wisdom to share on MAF and/or MPFI knowledge?

Scott, do you have the Weber adapter plates for both EA81 and EA82 ?

Simply Amazing diagnosis !!! Who would have ever thought an impact could cause debris in the fuel line. I mean ... anyone other than I75eya. This forum is, umm, words can not describe.

hello all Soob gurus. Suspect vehicle is 1985 EA82 FWD AT MPFI. I know, I know... It is a rare Soob. I bought the car a few years ago and put in new HG's. Gave it to my daughter, and it ran for 2 years. Now, for some reason, it does not idle. It will actually die if you don't give it any gas. So, I do the following ... 1. Remove and clean MAF (it is the flapper type). 2. Clean Throttle body. 3. Sand Disty cap and rotor with emery cloth. 4. Check for water in oil (none) and check for bubbles in coolant (none). 5. Check for vacuum leaks (none). Now, I put it all back together and for some reason, the car runs GREAT. Of course it is a bit cold blooded, but smooths out when warmed up. Problem is, I now notice that I forgot to plug in the MAF plug wire (at the MAF). When I plug it in, it runs like crap and will die if idling- I actually put a new (used) MAF on the car 2 years ago. Found one at BR Auto in Eugene. Can someone give a few ideas of maybe what the problem is or maybe things to check to help with diagnosis. I have limited experience with the fuel injection Soobs. I always Weberize them. Also, how exactly do I read the codes from the ECU. I have read some threads - do I need to plug or unplug anything first ... or just read them from the blinking lights? I'll get to re-setting them later (after all is fixed). Thanks in advance for your help.

AK Aaron, so you only have the one electric fan? And it does not work? It could be a faulty thermosensor (mounted into passenger side of radiator). This thermosensor completes the ground when water temp reaches 190 ... thus powering the electric fan.

Before jacking up the car ... use said car to buy the parts. You know there are 2 bearings per wheel, right? New seals, grease, special tools. What size is your axle nut and how do you plan on breaking that loose? Good time to rebuild calipers. New pads? Tie rods? Flush brake system.

Or just delete power steering. I have done that on several EA82's. Next time, I will keep the hydraulic lines and pump. Sell for cheap, huh?

+1 on Quidam's find. Nice pics. Remove rubber bands before installing.... When you stop laughing, Consider replacing the water pump and resealing the oil pump. Throw covers away ... or keep them ... somebody on here wanted to buy a set a few months ago. Use seam where valve cover meets camtower as timing mark.

I believe the soft lines end near passenger side lower inside fender. Then, they go to metal again before they enter the rack.

Heed what somick said. The bottom bolt - remove from inside. What you're looking at on the outside is a nut welded on. I like to remove the wheel and pressure wash the area first. Then put the wheel back on and move to a dry place to work.

Nice photos. Thanks for the post. When working under the dash, I always remove the driver seat. Then lay on my back with feet resting on rear seat. Much easier on the back, neck, arm, leg. Only 4 bolts.