rdweninger

+1 on the Timeserts

a cutoff wheel works great for shortening drill bits ... much safer ... but much hotter ... wear glove or let cool down. timing covers gotta go. no way a 'rock' is going to get in there while they are spinning (I have tried it, just for fun) Just have to be careful with antifreeze and oil re-fills.

pop could have been a timing belt.

if you buy a new oil pump, I would like your old pump. Could you bag it and mail it to me? I would like to try a rebuild on it.

yes, those thermoswitchs do fail after a few years. A lot of folks just wire up a switch in the dash to turn fan on/off. But this would require the driver to constantly watch the temp gauge. You can still buy the thermoswitch I believe. Like $30. My heat quit working a few years ago. There is a flapper door that is controlled by the hot/cold slide control knob on dash. Have someone 'watch' to flapper door while you slide up/down for temperature control. My ea82 wagon had the flapper door near the gas pedal. Other's with ea81 may chime in where it is located. I had to wire my flapper open for full heat. Works great. Just don't drive that Soob in the summertime... ha!

The fan is controlled by a thermoswitch... which completes the ground when radiator water temp hits about 180. So power to fan is always on ... but fan only works when the ground is completed. Easy to test - just take the ground wire (the one from fan to thermoswitch) and ground it. Fan should work then. If not, then check to see if you have 12v power going to fan. Fuse could be blown. If fan works when manually grounded, pull the thermoswitch and clean it. Also a good time to flush the radiator. Possible that water is not getting to the thermoswitch... therefore the switch never grounds.

You can fix it to a drivable condition. Get a BFH, bottle jack and some 2x4's. My wagon has been hit several times. It has 'earned' a few thousand bucks. Still driving it today.

I would guess that the timing belt on driver side was fubar'd. Even if the belt is still intact, it may have jumped a few teeth ... so you might have spark, but at the wrong time.

no need to install an electric fan if your temp guage reads cool.... and you live on the Oregon Coast for the rest of your life... ha! Save your money for wiper blades ! Change your antifreeze/anticorrosion every 2 or 3 years ... Radiators love it.

did the starting fluid work? If it did not fire, then I would suggest it has no spark.

I was teaching my son how to replace the timing belts on his EA82. The covers were on, so we pulled the crank pulley and replaced the old water pump as well as the cam seals and belts and tensioners. You know ... do the job right ... sort of thing. I had my boy turn the wrenches ... I was just supervising. After we put it back together, we started it up. It ran great, but had a strange high pitched buzzing sound coming from the engine compartment. While it was running, we stuck our heads closer to the engine compartment ... to my surprise, the 1/2" ratchet was still attached to the crank bolt. The buzzing sound was the ratchet 'click' when it is in reverse (not tightening). Got lucky on that one. Note to self ... keep a close eye on the kid.

you mean Philbin sold you a vacuum advance? I have used them to rebuild my Soob distys.

I never knew an oil filter could refuse oil from pump. Note to self ... Remember to check oil pressure after oil change. Thank you, for the head's up.

don't forget the idler and tensioners when doing the timing belts. Cam seals and O-rings. Cam tower oil o-ring (reinforced). Rebuild oil pump. Replace all water hose (5). New contacts in starter. Clutch, PP, TO bearing, Pilot bearing. Fuel tank is 15 gal. When my gauge reads Empty, only takes 12+ gallons to fill. So I guess it has 3 gallons left in there. But always best to keep the fuel tank full .... cuts down on condensation in the tank (read water). Go Weber. You won't regret it. Delete cat.

Add this to your collection ... Not mine ... but I wish.

Make sure you inspect the crank pulley for cracks.

Best Thread Ever !!!

From your first post, it sounds like you resealed your oil pump. I would start by pulling the oil pump to verify all pieces are there. Keep us posted ... this is a good one.

Don't trust your dash temp gauge. Find the water leak, fix it. Then replace the sending unit for coolant temperature. Do your fans turn on?

How come no junk yards in Canada? Yeah, watch out for them CL scammers. If I ever buy anything on CL, I always try to meet them at their place of residence.... if you know what I mean. And if they say something works, have them sign a bill of sale stating that fact and offering a warranty.

Possible faulty coolant temperature sensor. It thinks the car is always 'cold', so it is dumping more fuel. This is how SPFI replaces a manual choke.

did your mechanic pull the motor when he did the HG? Could have clue to vibration (motor mounts, pitch rod, axles, clutch, PP)

4 ft/lb would be 48 in/lb 5 ft/lb would be 60 in/lb At 70 in/lb, you were approaching 6 ft/lb ... which compared to 4 is 150% of max torque. Not sure what FSM calls for. I don't own an in/lb torque wrench ... that's just snug +

But, to get the EGR light to turn off.... under left knee panel, you may have to pull the fuse box. Look for a blue connector plugged into another connector. Nearby, you will see a green connector not plugged into anything. Unplug blue and plug in green. Light will go off. Run for another 60,000 miles. Or vice versa depending on who plugged what last.

Subaru ... He lived.