Stubies Subie

this has probably been hashed over a million times, so here goes a million and one ... what parts besides the oil pump are needed to be bought from the subaru dealer for a complete 1991 EA82 spfi engine reseal, seems like there's some gaskets or O-rings or something that also need to come from the dealer, maybe some cooling hoses? but for the life of me, I can't remember what they are. my car is dying and I found someone to put a good engine together for me, but I need to get all the parts for them. so far, I got a good set of heads, a good block, a complete timing belt kit, felpro head gaskets and a pan gasket. thanks

you can buy those retainer rings new, I have 4 sets of them, the subaru part number is 723146020 google the part number "Subaru 723146020", you'll get a few hits as to were to buy them, and their cheap, they come in a package of 4.for about 3 bucks. it's not worth the hack job you would go through to make the caps fit when you can still buy the retainer rings for so cheap

this engine has had this problem since day one of the last complete head gasket/ reseal/ timing belt job that I had done to it, it's not a loose head bolt problem, General Disorder did the reseal on it, and the heads are the ones he featured in his post apocalyptic resurfacing thread, one of the heads was bad, it not something that would have shown up in a do it yourself resurfacing job, the heads should have gone to a machine shop and been pressure tested and rebuilt. I have found a good head (that has already been through a machine shop and been rebuilt) and someone to do the head job, so I'm in good shape so far, just need to collect a few more parts to make the job complete.

are both heads the same or is there a left and a right? will a left work on a right and visa-versa? ... never mind, answered my own question on that one, (I googled it) I can use a passenger side head on the drivers side if I plug the egr port, I'll just look for a good drivers side head

I like that one, the raised roof of the touring wagon is a little on the rare'r side, getting a good used engine I don't think is a real big deal, easiest car in the world to put an engine in, you don't want a Turbo car, most GL-10 (not all) were turbo, stay away from the turbo stuff, the absolute best years are 88, 89 spfi with a 5 speed duel range tranny, you might have that with this car if it's not an automatic.

I had this happen to mine -> http://s1239.photobucket.com/user/mrlinfoot/media/100_2805.jpg.html

it would appear that I have a bad head on the drivers side of my 91 Loyale EA82 spfi wagon, the front cylinder is low on compression. the car goes through a quart of oil about every 800 miles,and uses about a half gallon of coolant ebout every 2,000 miles so far, in the year and a half (or so) since I had the current engine worked over and seals and head gaskets replaced, I've put about 55,000 miles on it. The problem hasn't gotten any worse, it's pretty much stayed the same throughout the 55,000 miles. I've had it worked on a couple of different times, and even had a compression test done and the heads looked and was told it looks like the drivers side head is bad. either to badly cracked between valves, seals bad, bad valves or something. my question is, can I replace just the drives side head and head gasket beins how the passanger side is ok? I don't wan to have to pull the passenger side head if nothing is wrong with it. we went through all sorts of stuff trying to fix the problem when we first did the engine as you can read all about here-> http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/122221-1991-loyale-wagon-let-the-build-begin/page-3 for now i'd like to find a good head, get it checked out at a machine shop, and then put it on the car.

so far, I have 50,000 miles on my sealed bearings with no problems.

I finally installed a ham radio in my car, I kept putting it off since I've owned the car mainly because I didn't want to drill holes in the dash, but after a couple of years, I really didn't see any other place I could have put it. I still need to clean up the wiring and coax a little bit, but other then that ... it's done, and looking kinda stylish under the 13 dollar Garmin GPS I snagged off ebay

what's the long block? carbed or spfi?

John Deere green Loyale? somehow, I like that idea, and no, we're not going to have a parts yard, other then what's already there. we're going to be running cattle, plus we're building a miniature airstrip for radio controlled model aircraft. that's what we're working on with the disk roller and the Subaru. this coming weekend, we're going to be shoveling dirt and filling in the low spots on the runway, then rolling it again with the Subaru and Roller. I'm tellin ya, I'm starting to like farm life!

it comes in darn handy at times, that's for sure, in this case, the ground is so soft that the tractor leaves big ruts so we opted to tow the disk roller with the wagon, it worked perfect

we just got a new place on a 60 acre farm, and beins how I like to fly model airplanes, we (with the help of my nephew who also flys) decided to put in a 300 foot by 30 foot runway, we got ahold of a disk roller and started pulling it with the wagon, and it's done a fine job on the runway, we were flying off of it by Saturday evening. here's a picture and a short video:

just another update I don't seem to keep on up these updates very well but since we got moved, so I figured it’s time to update this thread. We don’t have a shop yet at the new house, (got the pad laid, but no building yet) so any car work I’ve wanted to do myself has had to be on the gravel driveway out in the cold wet rain …not fun, and as a result, the car has kind of slowly been falling apart. The car has been working really well throughout the move, with the new tires and new 2.25 inch exhaust, it has been doing fine hauling the utility trailer, load after load with no complaints. But ….. the brake lights never worked from the day I bought the car, so I drove it for a good year without them, got stopped by the cops on 3 different occasions for other reasons but the non working brake lights were never questioned. I never have gotten the wiring done for the rear view mirror, which has been somewhat frustrating, but not having the time, and not wanting to do it in the driveway in the rain; I just kind of kept putting it off. one nasty stormy rainy day after Christmas, I set out with the utility trailer to go pick up a clothes dryer for the house, and on the way, the drivers window rolled down, and stayed down, wouldn’t go back up, and the window switch on the drives door wouldn’t move any of the windows, I kind of suspected that the wiring harness that goes into the door had failed. The ride became wet and miserable. That was the last straw; I wasn’t going to deal with it any more, fortunately, I had just gotten the legacy licensed and on the road, which gave us a spare car, which allowed me to live without the Loyale for a little while, so off to General Disorder it went .. I showed up at his place with a list of problems, and left it. The door wiring was a nightmare, apart came the door, off came the front fender out came the wiring harness and a few hours later, GD had a new section spliced in and the window switch was again working. Next came the brake lights, he traced those wires from the brake pedal all the way back to the tail lights trying to chase down the fault …finally found a wire had separated in a plug behind the glove-box. I now have working brake lights!! Next came the mirror wiring, and he did a great job on that to, through the head liner, down the windshield pillar, and to the fuse block for power, he put the temperature sensor behind the license plate, perfect spot for it I think. And the reverse cut off wire went to the reverse switch, so now the headlights of the cars behind me on the freeway at night aren’t so blinding, and the mirror dimmer shuts down when in reverse like it’s supposed to, the compass works great so I know what direction I’m goin and now that I’m living on top of a mountain, I know the roads are freezing before I go in a ditch because the temperature readout in the mirror warns me.

wow, that took some talent!!, good job on the repair, you are very skilled in sheet metal repair.