Stubies Subie

I've been buying stuff off ebay and have saved on average about 50% over auto parts store prices

I like that one to, I was just looking at them through ebay and google (amazon) that seems like it would do a goo job of cleaning, thanks for the sugestion, I just might have to pick one up

I like the brake cleaner idea, that stuff desolves anyting and drys fast, I can spray that down through the lines, then blow it out with compressed air ...dang! why didn't I think of that? so simple, but that will do it.

thanks I'm already looking up parts and getting ideas for it and I ain't even got it home yet ...I'm bad I really need to get my Loyale finished up and out of the shop so I can move the legacy in there when I get it home

the brake system was bad, rotted out calipers ect, everything is already off the car, all that's left are the brake lines only, and I don't want to install the new master cylinder or calpers and wheel cylinders and feed the sludge through them that's inside the brake lines, I'd like to get the brake lines cleaned out before I put the new parts back on the car.

Concerning Ol' KC, my 91 Loyale: I was going to flush out the brake master cylinder, as well as the brake lines but noticed when I went to clean out the master cylinder that there was a fare amount of sludge on the bottom of the bowl, close to 1/32 of an inch or so. Trying to gravity bleed the lines didn’t work at all, and I’m guessing that I’ve got some blockage in there somewhere. With as much sludge as I found, and with new calipers and wheel cylinders going on the car, I decided that it would be in my best interest to replace the master cylinder as well, it looked bad enough that I didn’t want to chance it. So with the master cylinder off the car, the calipers and wheel cylinders off, so all that’s left is just the brake lines and nothing else. What would be a good way to flush them all out? Maybe compressed air? A little paint thinner or lacquer thinner? Some solvent? Or just feed through brake fluid until it’s good and flushed. My concern is that I have sludge in the brake lines and with all new calipers, master cylinder, and rear wheel cylinders, I want to be sure I can get the brake lines as clean as possible before I reinstall everything. Any suggestions or ideas?

I'm gonna cross my fingers and hope that's what it is, I got a busy weekend ahead of me but am going to try my darndest to get the car home and work on it.

I will try that when I get it home and see what happens, I'm hoping to get it home this coming weekend

I am wondering if the trany is actually bad, once I get it home where I can look it over, I'll figure it out, I'll post better pictures of it once I get my hands on it, this is the first time I ever bought a car sight un-seen, but it does belong to a co-worker that I've worked with for a good number of years, so I trust her judgment on the condition of the car. I'm excited about it, it looks so clean that even with high miles, it really doesn't have me to concerned that I might be getting a piece of junk or something. I do kinda wonder what 280,000 miles has done to the interior though, I hope it[s not all tore up, I don't think it is or she woulda told me ....trusting ain't I?

Just an update on Ol' KC He’s been garage bound now for a couple of months, but I have been slowly buying parts here and there and cleaning and fixing little problems with the car. Today I got the legacy paid off, so it should be coming home in the next few days. That will leave me a little more money to work on Ol’ KC. As for ol' KC, I have gotten the old parts cleaned up and painted; GD drove in the new knuckle bearings and seals. I replaced the broken headlight (thanks Ed for the new headlight); I also got a set of Flosser 100/80 watt bulbs for it along with a pair of ceramic socket extensions. I replaced the oil sending unit, readjusted the clutch, (I had it adjusted wrong to begin with) I got new brake pads, new brake fluid (dot 4) new ball joint, new control rod end, and miscellaneous other parts, I still need a caliper though, maybe next payday? It’s going to be going back together pretty soon, pictures to follow

wha-whoo!! I got the Legacy paid off today, now to get it home and figure out what it's going to take to get it driving again

with memories like that, I think id be for keeping the car as a living room centerpiece so I could have conversations about it when people come to visit .....

here's one on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/140600935399?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 notice the part number SPICU1099 as Quidam stated, that is a duel core radiator. the link I gave you is the cheapest I've found, the key is to do a google search for "SPICU1099" and see if you can find it cheaper anywhere else.

The Flosser 9107 bulbs arrived over the weekend, so I’m a little slow getting this posted, but here goes These 9107’s are the same as the 9007, not the 9004, and from this picture the filament is a little lower then the filament in Jeszeks 9104 bulbs. I can see how the light from low beam to high beam would move sideways instead of up and down as would be the case with this picture: I would have to somehow, remove the bulb from the base, insert it in the 9104 base, after rotating to 90 degrees one direction so the beam of light (from low to high) would go up and down instead of side to side.

It's my understanding that there's a number on the drivers side front door lock, if you can get the door interior panel off, and get that number off the door lock cylinder, you can take that number to the dealer and get a new key made off that number for about $20

as soon as the seals show up, I'm going to bring the knuckle, bearings, spacer, seals, and grease over to your house and let you do your magic on it

I found some red line Synthetic grease, red in color, it says it's high performance extreme pressure grease, a little on the expensive side but it should work fine I would think.

from what I just read here: http://www-static.shell.com/static/can-en/downloads/products_services/lubricants/rotella/rotella_t6.pdf it's SM, SL, SH rated

that looks like the red assembly grease that he uses, I was reading the ford truck forums and this grease looks like it might work well http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/showpost.php?p=10152319&postcount=15

I was gonna ask him before I ran out and got some tomorrow, but wanted to see what others are using or recommending.

it's also the highest rated on the market right now

sorry, but I have to say this: Sounds to me like that was a bad batch of fuel, could happen to anyone, the lawsuit isn't about compensation, it's about a lawyer get rich quick scheme. The last line on that link states “a judge has ordered $6.8 million to be divided among 79 attorneys in the class action suit.” How did that benefit the consumer? Shell had already taken action to fix their wrong by replacing speedometers in tens of thousands of vehicles at a cost of $200 to $1,000 each. The same thing happened to John Deere over some mismarked engines that were installed in some tractors, some attorneys got rich at John Deere’s expense, does that make Jon Deere a bad company that shouldn’t be selling tractors? Ask a farmer who has one. I run Shell fuels, bad fuel happens, bad attorneys that only see dollar signs happen. I had my truck accidently filled up at a Texaco station one time with Diesel, so do I stop buying fuel from Texaco? If we all did that, we wouldn’t be buying anything from anyone because everybody makes mistakes at some point in their lives, we’re human, it’s unavoidable.

what's the general consensus around here for wheel bearing grease? I use marine grade on my trailers, and was thinking as I put my Loyale back together that some nice waterproof wheel bearing grease up front would be a good thing, the bearings themselves are sealed, although I'd have to question how water proof those sealed bearings really are. I want to add a little bit of something in the steering knuckle as it goes back together and thought Marine grade wheel bearing grease would be a good thing, being 4x4, it isn't likely to never see a mud puddle or sloppish mud hole at some point, and the added protection of marine grade grease sounds reasonable to me. I’ve run it on all my trailers and never had a problem, I even have it on my little utility trailer that doubles as a boat trailer once in a while. what's your thoughts

it almost sounds like the 9007 would work if you could rotate the bulb 90 degrees one direction so the beams (between high and low) went up and down instead of side to side. I got more bulbs coming and am working with the flosser rep to see if we can figure out what the difference is. so far I've been told that the reason Jeszek had the filament vertical to the base while mine is horizontal is because flosser accidently sent a shipment of 9107 bulbs to south america and accidently marked them as 9104's Jeszek and I have been conversing through private messages about this issue. Stuart

this might be worth reading: http://candlepowerinc.com/pdfs/9004_9007.pdf those 9104 bulbs you have use what they call an axial filament, and the ones I got use what they call a transverse filament same part number, yet built different. I read somewhere where someone took the 9007 bulb and removed it from the 9007 base it was attached to and retrofitted it into a 9004 base, I need to go back and find that artical. maybe it's the design of the headlight itself or something that prevents the use of a axial filament in a 9004 bulb, but it seems to be it would be easy to do, there was one at some point by looking at the photos that jeszek has.