Stubies Subie

it fits perfect, you glue the button to the windshield, then hang the mirror on the button I used the permatex two part Adhesive, that button ain't never coming off. it's a one shot deal, meaning you only got one shot to get it right, once you stick the button to the glass, it's there to stay, you can't remove it. so measure it out and make sure to mark the glass from the outside as to where you want to glue the button, I marked the outside of my windshield with a felt pen, then stuck the button on the mark from the inside. that button also only goes on one way, make sure you glue the correct side of the button to the windshield, if you glue the button on backwards, you won't be able to attach the mirror. once yo get the mirror and the button, you'll be able to see exactly what side of the button attaches to the glass

There's a couple of different charts, one chart shows me in zone 3, the other chart shows me in zone 4 there's two ways to set the compass, you can manually set it by zone number, there's 14 zones programmed into the compass, of you and press and hold the comp button until a "C" appears in the screen C= calculating, then drive slowly in a circle while holding the button until a compass heading appears on the screen, then the compass is set. when I manually set the compass by driving in a circle, it set the compass to zone 3.

there's 4 different versions of this mirror, all with the same part number (GNTX-177), so pay attention to the differences: all mirrors come with the auto dim feature, they all have the same wiring diagram. looking at the picture of the buttons below, the one on my car says COMP/TEMP, that mirror has both a compass and a temperature sensor feature. if you come across a mirror like this one where the buttons say COMP/MIRROR then that mirror does NOT have a temperature sensor feature. there are also a couple of different options for the display readout in the upper right corner of the mirror. looking at the second picture, the display is a rectangle, this only allows 1 line of data at a time, so with this mirror, you have to toggle between compass and temperature, this is the mirror I have. the other option is in the third picture, notice the readout box in that picture, it's more of a square, this readout allows 2 lines of data, so you can display both the temperature and the compass at the same time without having to toggle. these mirrors are in quite a few different cars and trucks covering a number of years, so your chances of finding one at the wrecking yard are really good, and knowing which mirror does what will allow you to pick the perfect mirror for your application, some people may not care about having a temperature sensor, others may want to 2 line data readout. you can also get them with homelink (garage door opener) on-star road side assistance (paid service) a built in GPS, a back up camera, these mirrors are easy to install as well but have different part numbers, and almost all features are self contained in the mirror itself except for the back up camera, the temperature sensor, and maybe the GPS antenna. now you know exactly what to look for ....go find some mirrors and post some pictures

I got the mirror mounted and powered up, I did a temporary power hookup only to be sure that everything works, and it all worked like a charm. the first picture show it mounted in the car, the second picture shows it going through it's self test power up procedure, the third picture shows it in temperature mode, and the 4th picture shows it in compass mode. it's really hard to get a picture of the dimming feature, but rest assured, it works very well. as for the wiring, that's simple as dirt. looking at the back of the mirror, and starting with the red wire closest to the center of the mirror and working your way to the right, the hookup goes as follows: first wire is hot, (red) and goes to ignition power, I hooked mine to the cigarette lighter as it powers up when you tun the car on. the second wire (black) is ground, hook it to a good ground. the next wire is green, pay attention here, this one is a little tricky only in such a way that doing google searches comes up with different ideas for this wire, here's the bottom line. you need this wire, do not remove it as some google searches suggest, this is your dimmer disable wire, you can either hook it to your back up lights so it disables the dimmer feature while in reverse, or if you choose to not use the reverse dimmer feature, then it needs to go to ground, I tied mine to the Negative black wire (second wire from left) if you remove this wire, or don't hook it to either ground or the back up lights, then your dimmer feature will not work correctly. so it needs to be hooked to one or the other, reverse lights or ground. the 4th and 5th wires (pink and gray) get removed, their only purpose is to hook them to the side view mirrors for the side mirror dimmer feature, we don't have dimmers in our side mirrors, so the 4th and 5th wires can be removed. you won't be using them. the 6th (green with black stripe) and 7th (brown) wires go to your temperature sensor. I'd locate the temperature sensor somewhere away from direct sunlight, and away from the heat of the engine, I think I'll be placing mine up behind the front bumper.

I don't know if all Tahoes had them, but I do know they came on a number of trucks covering a number of years, fords, chevy, dodge, Nissan ect, that GNTX-177 is a pretty common mirror and it comes in a couple of different versions with and without the temp sensor, it also came with a couple of different readout displays. yes the mirror switches on when you turn the car on, I'm wiring mine to the cigarette lighter circuit, the lighter circuit comes to life when you turn the key on the temp sensor is located behind the grill on most all the trucks, very easy to get to and remove when your at the wrecking yard. I started a thread on the mirror but it got moved to the retrofit section for some reason, I'll update that thread tonight when I get home. The thread is located here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=133725

my car is a 91 Loyale, but the mirror is out of a 99 Chevy Tahoe, those mirrors are all over the place at the wrecking yards for about 20 bucks a pop, the easiest one to install (because there's so much information about it on the net) is the GNTX-177 your only dealing with 5 wires, one to positive, one to ground one to the reverse lights, or ground if you arn't going to use the reverse feature, then the last two wires go to the temp sensor. I already got mine wired up and working, will post more pictures tonight after work, it's a VERY nice mirror, I don't regret the upgrade one bit. the compass is dead on when compared to my Garman GPS, I still need to mount the temp sensor, but will probably put it somewhere up front around the bumper area

I started my Gentex 177 mirror instillation tonight, I think it’s gonna look like it belongs there, that’s going to give me an auto dim feature, a compass, and an outside thermometer. I think it’s a nice little upgrade. I whacked off the old mirror: put what was left of the old mirror bracket back in the car: and sized up the new mirror to see what it's going to look like, I think this is going to be a cool upgrade Now to get it wired up, I may call on GD for that one, but not before I try it myself, I mean, how hard can wiring it up be? hehe

My Mirror showed up today, so when I got home from work tonight, I started the install. First thing I did was pull off the old mirror, and wacked it off at the mount then re-installed what was left, the following two pictures is what the old mirror bracket looks like now. Then I cleaned the windshield, marked the center where I wanted to glue the button, and glued it up, then taped it, the instructions for the glue says that the mirror will be ready to mount in 15 minutes, I think I’ll leave the tape on over night then put the mirror on in the morning, I’ll take more pictures when I got the mirror mounted.

I went to harbor freight and bought one of these for about $8.00, I tightened it down, gave it a good smack with a 3 lb hammer, and it popped right out

that's the problem with mine, it's welded front to rear, all one piece, it looks like as sections went bad, they would cut it out, and weld in a new section, it's a real patch job under there.

Hey SmashedGlass, I’m not trying to steel your thread, but I’m having the same problem you are, my muffler is getting a hole in it, but my exhaust system is really a Frankenstein exhaust, it’s had some of the piping replaced, and other areas have patches, and on the Y pipe, the heat shields rattle something awful. The exhaust has pin hole leaks all over the place. For as messed up as it is, It’s got a pretty good tone to it right now, but I know it isn’t going to stay that way, just as the hole in yours is going to get bigger, and louder, and nastier. I gave the exhaust system a lot of thought, and am told that there’s no way we can ever make an EA82 sound like an EJ22, but I do believe we can make is sound better then stock. I like the videos that maozebong and 6 star posted, The idle on maozebong’s sound great, but that nasty rat-tat-tat sound at the higher RPM deceleration is almost too loud, it makes me want to go pop a couple Tylenol. 6 star’s brat sounds great, but almost a little to low toned for me, but that may be because he had his video camera inside the car and it insulated some of the sound. My idea is to replace the Y-pipe and cat with something unshielded (I hate that rattle) Borland has a direct replacement that’s oem, minus the shields: The problem around here is, I live in a DEQ zone, my car has to pass emissions, so I need the cat, and the o2 sensor, so I can’t omit that stuff. And if I go to a muffler shop, I have to buy the cat and Y-pipe from them, and have them install it, they won’t install one from any other source but there own (stupid laws) …. Now from the cat back, all is fare game ..so here’s my thinking. I’m told to leave the Y pipe stock, something about back pressure or something, GD knows about that stuff, but to go 2.5 inches from the cat back, and I haven’t seen anything through them Youtube videos that shows that this would sound like, but I’m thinking after the cat, ad a resonator: Then for the exhaust add something like a twin Monza type muffler: Or go with one of them fancy loop back mufflers: I know I’m going to have to get mine into a muffler shop before long and just break down and do what I have to get the exhaust system replaced, so this is the direction I’m kind of leaning, although I’m not real sure about what it might sound like, I’m sure it would sound different then stock though. I’ll probably gather up all the parts, install the Y-pipe and cat myself, then go to the muffler shop and have them install the rest of it.

Last night I installed the power distribution block I’ll be using for my radio gear, I found a nice spot for it under the hood, now I’m waiting for the rest of the parts to show up so I can wire it in. I also got one of the HAM radio antennas installed on the front fender, now I need to plumb the coax through the firewall to the inside. This is my new to me stereo, and a scanner that I’d like to install in the dash I want to put them both here, stacked one on top of the other, and would REALLY like to find someone local that could help me with that, no wiring needed, just get the radios mounted up so they look like they belong. Heck, I’d even pay you for the help.

I would not use the one with the nylon lock nut, I'd stick with the one with the castle nut and cotter pin, I like the guarantee of the cotter pin locking the nut in place that it's never going to back off there for any reason

that's some serious heat inside that car look for one with a 7 wire connector, and if any of the buttons on the front of the mirror say "mirror" on them, then that mirror does not have the outside temp feature. be sure to grab the temp sensor when you do find one, on the chevys, they are on the front behind the grill about middle of the car, and look like the one in the picture

I've been wanting one but it never dawned on me to retrofit one out of another car, a mirror like that costs about $250 new, or you can go to your local wrecking yard and pick one up for 20 bucks or so. here's a new version: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200023574_200023574 the wiring seems simple enough the first two wires are power and ground, the third wire goes to the reverse backup light wire for disabling the auto-dim when in reverse. the 4th and fifth wire you chuck, those were the auto dim wires for the side view mirrors, they don't get used. and the 6th and 7th wire goes to the temp sensor. the Compass and auto-dim feature are built into the mirror. sounds pretty simple to me. I'll probably glue the mirror to the windshield and have GD wire it up from what I'm reading on the internet, you can use pretty much any of them that glues to the windshield, they are in all sorts of cars and have stuff like back up cameras, on-star, compass, blue-tooth, auto dim, GPS, garage door opener, outside temp (some wire it up to read inside temp) clocks, and who knows what else. and there's all sorts of wiring diagrams for them through google searches. the GENTEX GNTX-177 which is the one I got seems to be one of the more popular ones. and they came in chevys fords Nissan's Toyota's ect. here's one out of a sonata that has a bunch of features:

that trike is looking good!!

Has anyone considered putting in one of those Gentex rear view mirrors in their subaru? they came in all sorts of late model cars. I got one that has an auto-dim feature, a compass and an outside temperature sensor they are pretty cheap off ebay, and probaby even cheaper out of a wrecking yard, I just got one complete with the wiring harness and sensors for about 60 bucks delivered, that's a heck of a lot cheaper then buying those after market ones that run hundreds of dollars. here's a video about the one I just got. the thing has to be better then the stock mirror that came with my car. there's alos a really good write up about installing the mirror over at the jeep forums: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/compass-temp-auto-dim-mirror-swap-detailed-lots-o-pics-952705/

the Maxima alt won't work on the EJ22's, it's pretty much the same size as the stock EA82 alt, maybe even a hair bit bigger

My old stock 65 amp (or what ever it was) alternator went out, so I stopped by GD's house on my way to work to see if I could buy one of these Maxima 90 amp alternators from him, and not only did he sell me one, but he had it installed in my car and I was back on the road and on my way to work in less then 15 minutes, this has to be the simplest upgrade I've ever seen.

the best solution for that is to quit smoking, I did, 2 and a half years now with out so much as a puff, and my lighter never comes out unless I'm plugging in the GPS

I finally got to wash my car, ol KC was feeling a little slighted with my girlfriends Celica geting all the attention, after a new set of tires, a wash job and some armerall on the tires of my girlfriends car, I had to do the same to my Subaru, so I armoralled the tires, and the bumpers, and gave it a bath.

Does anyone happen to have a dealer part number for that cone washer? I wouldn't mind having a few new ones on hand. I had two extras out of a wrecking yard, and I've already used those up and am now out of spares.

good point, heads need to be resurfaced when doing head gaskets

if I understand your post correctly, your saying you installed new head gaskets, got it running good, drove it about 10 miles, it over heated and you had boiling coolant coming out of the muffler as well as the over flow and the radiator? if that's what your saying, something went wrong with your head gasket Job. or you didn't replace all that was wrong with it. in my opinion, if your doing head gaskets because of over heating problems, you should probably also replace the radiator and thermostat, (Thermostat should be dealer only) the old radiators in the EA82's are marginal at best for cooling, and are easily plugged up over time. if I had to do head gaskets over again, I'd also replace the radiator, thermostat, and water pump. just my opinion, others may differ.

150 foot lbs, make sure the edge of the cone washer is smooth on the side and not grooved or you'll never get it tight. it should look like the one in the picture. cone washer goes on first, then the flat washer with the raised part out, (some say "OUT" on the side that goes against the castle nut), install the castle nut, torque to 150 ft lbs, and install the cotter pin