spideyz

Any of you guys have any experience with the reproductions of the Brat logos, like the ones for sale on ebay for about $100? Getting the Brat painted soon and debating whether or not to replace the Brat logo. Keith

My 94 legacy is grinding going into second especially when downshifting, so I am in the process of learning the whole double clutching thing. Now just to get my wife to learn...

Did the same mechanics that told you about the fish oil just replace your brake pad gaskets and your valve filter rings? I hope you didn't pay more than $2500 for that work.

I guess all you guys from the places that have snow get a lot more rust than we do here in sunny California? Hopefully I'll never have this type of problem with my recently aquired 94 legacy. But if I ever do, I'll know who to turn to. Keith

Maybe the car was just longing for its homeland...

Can you describe the relay switch. I guess you aren't just talking about an on/off toggle switch. What sort of damage can be done with just a toggle switch to battery voltage with an appropriately sized fuse? Thanks. Keith

Thinking about adding some lights to the front bumper of my 87 Brat. Are these legal? (I'm in CA) Where is the best place to find lights? Any good online sources? How have you wired them up? I've got an A style push bar, so I'm thinking of mountine them on the bumper in the center of the push bar. Keith

Anyone ever taken the AC out of an EA82 and put in in an EA81 without factory AC? Thinking about doing it now that summer is here and my 89 wagon sits dead (but with good AC) and the 87 brat is without AC. Keith

I just picked up a 94 Legacy AWD wagon. It is a 5spd with the 2.2L engine. (the guy I bought it from says it is the 160hp, but I haven't even had a chance to study the car in detail). I paid $2700. It has 147K but the entire engine compartment looks like the day it drove off the lot. So, now that I'll be spending equal time on the new gen and old gen board (I still have my 87 brat that I am fixing up), I figured I'd ask you guys which manual I should pick up for the Legacy. I'm sure the FCM is the best but other than that, which book is worth using? Anything else I should be aware of about the 94 legacy? The only problem with the car is that it seems like the syncro is bad for second gear. It doesn't like to slide into second above 2000rpm and hates downshifting from third. Does anyone know how much an rebuilt transaxle goes for for these? I think I'll just adjust my driving habits and get used to the problem, but if it locks up or something... Thanks. Keith

I am looking at picking up an 88 DL wagon, but since it doesnt have power windows and locks, I am wondering if I could put the doors from by 89 GL parts car on the DL. Is the chasis wiring there for the power locks and windows. If so, all I'd have to do is hook up the connectors. If the wiring is not there, I would have to run wire to all the doors for the window motors and power locks. That sounds like a lot of work. Let me know if you know if the DLs have wiring for the windows and locks. It'll save me two hours of driving to do look at the DL i am considering. (Since it only has 91K miles, it might be worth the effort). Thanks. Keith

Which option are on the GL but not the DL?

I dont want the car to go to the dogs either, but if I will have to spend $2K on fixing this one, or spending $1000-$2000 on a known good car, I'll have to go with the known good. With a wife and twin one year old daughters, I guess I have to make some tough choices.

What is the difference between GL and DL for an 89 wagon? The spec sheets look identical except for tire size. Is the difference in the option package? Keith

Since my 89 GL-10 turbo wagon's engine is toast, I am considering towing it home to use as a parts car. I will probably not fix it, since a new engine will cost about what the whole car is worth. I have my 87 brat and was wondering what parts are interchangable. I'm pretty sure the alternator will swap. If I keep it for parts, I may do the rear disc conversion. What else will be usable for the ea81? Starter? Half-shafts?. I figure it'll cost me $150 to get the car home (it died ~100 miles from home), so if i can pull more than that in parts from it, I'm set. What else will swap? Keith

I am trying to decide whether or not to fix my burned out EA82T or just junk the car. Do you guys know what CCR will want for a rebuilt EA82T? I searched the archives for some good posts on a straight forward "out with the old, in with the new" engine swap, but didn't want to spend all night scrolling through the pages. Does anyone have a brief summary of what it takes to swap out the engine? Do I need any special tools other than maybe a hoist? How long does this take for a seasoned do it yourself mechanic to do? The car is automatic, GL-10 turbo wagon, with ac. Thanks. Keith

Hi guys, I am starting to drive my 87 brat, 4spd manual,now as a daily driver since the 89 wangon blew up. I am getting a fairly significant transmission fluid leak. It looks like it is coming from the back up light switch which is screwed into the side of the tranny. Since I hadn't been driving it, I hadn't taken care of the leak, but now that I am using it, I want to take care of this. I have not replace the aluminum gasket yet, which would be the cheapest fix. If that is the cause, great, but what I'd like to ask from the board is: Can oil leak *through* the switch? If so, how much do these things run. I guess I could just pick one up at the junk yard for 10 bucks. is there a chance the oil could be leaking from elsewhere and just be dripping off of the switch? Can I just plug the hole? Anyone know were to get a plug that size? If you have a know good extra of these switches, let me know. Thanks. Keith

I'm tinkering with the idea of just getting a quart of the Herculiner and doing only the floor of the bed. The brat is maroon and will still be maroon after the paint job, so I'll need to decide if I should go with black or grey. I'm not sure I'd like the rubber mat since I often throw lumber debris with nails sticking out in the bed. Could make for problems when sliding that junk out at the dump.

Thanks for the advice. In fact, the chrome on this brat is already really banged up. The tailgate chrome is currently removed, because several of the clips are missing. I think I will probably improvise something to replace the tailgate chrome that I can rest lumber on. Keith

Thanks for the replies fellas, I'll probably call the local rhino liner place and see what they'll charge. But the Hurculiner might be the way to go, because once I get the thing lined and start using it, I won't caretoo much if it gets a little banged up. Not sure I can cough up $300 or more for the Rhino. I'd just like to get it spiffied up a bit. Keith

I am getting the front end of the brat (86) straigtened out at the body shop this week and will get it painted after that. I am thinking of either leaving the bed as is (scratched and dents throughout, but only minor surface rust) or using some kind of paint-on bed liner. What do you guys think? What does the do it yourself Rhino liner cost and does it hold up? I'm not planning on babying the bed. It will be used for carrying building materials regularly. Thanks for you input. Keith PS I'll need to take some before and after pictures to post.

Well, I got the height control problem solved. I tried to have all me family and friends stand on the back of the car to try to fool the rear height sensors into opening up, but that didnt work. I tried the suggestion above and all of the front air lines were completely without pressure. I took off the front wheel and checked the compressor and air tank lines. Zero pressure there. So, to the back I went and manually vented both rear shocks. The car was now on the ground all around. My wife gave me a look like "now this is worse than before." As I put the front wheel back on I heard a solonoid click, followed by the much-hoped-for compressor kicking on. So we are back in business. Riding even and not bouncing like a hoopty anymore. Keith

My 89 gl-10 wagon is having an air ride problem. I was carrying a heavy load of sod the other day and as we unloaded the sod, the back end went all the way up. We have a slow leak in the front left strut that I have been keeping my eye on. So the next time we drove the car the front end was all the way down and the rear end was all the way up. Now the compressor wont come on to fill up the front and the back is sticking up in the air and the height light is flashing. The self diag. is giving me code number 2, but my manual doesnt give me a key to what this code tells me. I read several old posts and found some info that said when one or more shocks are too high, the computer wont let the compressor kick on. So I am guessing that I need to let the air out of the back end until it is lower than normal so the computer will try to fill the whole system. How do I manually vent the rear struts? I think I will first have all my friends and family stand on the back bumper to see if I can compress the rear struts to fool the sensors. Maybe that will work? I suppose the discarge solonoid could be stuck but I'd rather try the easy fix first. I have checked the fuse and tested the relay. Both OK. Any other ideas or help would be appreciated. Thanks. Keith

I didnt see that you checked the fuel pump relay. That could be what the fourth ignition wire is for. Find the relay and test it or at least see if you are getting voltage to it when you turn the key. If the relay doesn't work, then your fuel pump wont either.

If it was making the noises you describe, it is probably the outer CV. The new shaft you probably need will come complete with the inner and outer CVs. Just pull the old one and put in the new one. Just don't return the core until you have the new one all the way in and tested. I was burnt one time because the new "remanufactured" shaft had a different thread to it, so my old axel nut didn't fit right. If you know what you're doing, you can replace the shaft in less than an hour. If you dont, then it might take you all day, but it is still doable.

Sounds like a CV to me. I had a CV joint crumble on a FWD volkswagen rabbit. The car wouldn't budge and all there was was a bad grinding noise. Pull the left drive shaft and you'll be able to feel the cv joint when you move it around, it will probably feel like its all broken up... because it is. No big deal though, if that is the problem. Usually less than $75 at your local parts store. Good luck!