Cliptin

I also have the '85 Owner's manual, Maint book and dealer directory.

I have sections 1-6 for '85 1800 "Sedan and Wagon". Blue on white, Issued July 1984.

Thank you both. This is the kind of information I was looking for. Anyone else?

I'm looking at buying one of these two vehicles for light wheeling and I'd like opinions on the pros and cons of each one. I do expect to lift the vehicle and use bigger tires. For instance I know that the Sport will not have a DR available unless it comes from overseas. What else do I need to know to decide?

I believe there is a button on top of or around the steering column that causes this.

Where does the horn move to?

When you are at TDC are you supposed to be lined up with the zero mark? Essentially the question is this, is it possible to put the fly wheel on wrong if you take it off?

You have to start the rotor a little bit counter-clockwise so that when the disty slips into place the rotor spins where you want it to go. It's amazing how big those teeth get when you are trying to get the disty in.

I'm looking for a mechanic for future work. If I can't find one close enough I'll have to do the work myself.

If the tires are brand new it could just be the mold release wearing off.

What is the correct wiring for the cig lighter? Is the center post postive?

I'm not sure what type it is; I'm kinda new to this. The vehicle is an '85 MPFI non-turbo 3AT. As for the MAF harness and the wiring diagram, the actual wire colors are different from what is listed in the wiring diagram (Haynes) even thought the pin locations appear to match up. Should I rely on pin location or wire color.

If a bad MAF is making it run lean then combined with a bad O2 sensor (or disconnected) is should run reasonably normal but with worse than normal gas milage and emissions, correct? What is the correct way to test the MAF?

I think my gear oil leak ruined my O2 sensor. I 'm actually still trying to track down the source of the leak but the engine needs to be cleaned off (again) first.

Disconnect the O2 sensor and see if things improve. I think mine was sending out a sporadic signal.

Would this help a non-turbo car? Are people cutting into the wheel-well wall or just into the box itself and drawing hot engine air?

Otherwise known as: American International SBK934

My 85 MPFI gives me a code of 12. What the heck does this mean about the starter? Also, I've disconnected my O2 sensor and the computer does not throw a code for it. Is the computer broken? Connecting up the green wires make my fuel pump activate/run. I can't tell that connecting this does anything else.

Assuming the O2 sensor is not completly bad and just coated with oil and dirt; what is an acceptable what to clean it?

85 GL-10 Wagon MPFI EA82 non-T 3AT I have had trouble with bad gas milage (10 MPG) and a rough idle on first start. Then the troubles started with sputtering, no power and small backfires after driving downhill with the engine decelerating the car. I discovered this afternoon that if I disconnect the the O2 sensor the car runs with lots of power and no sputtering. What's the story/does this make sense? Is something else likely broken causing but the O2 sensor fine? Thanks!

Thanks guys. This info is most excellent. This car (for that matter a Subaru) is new to me. Maybe 1.5 months now. It has 190K on the dial 130 in each cylinder so I did a little Irish Spring leprechaunkick when I read the post from thealleyboy. In general, you have to have good compression or you won't get good force from the combustion explosion. Symptoms: (Caveat - my other car is an 01 Jetta VR6 manual so I'm trying to be fair to the Subie but it's hard to know where to place expectations when the car is so new to me.) The Subie does not seem to have the power I would expect in first gear and third. The shift into second will give you whiplash though. There was an eighth inch of metal shavings on the plug when I changed the ATF. It sems to be drinking gas. I got 187 miles out of the last tank of gas. In the morning it wants to die on the first start with a sputtery idle and then runs fine on the second start. After coasting down hill (under engine breaking or a neutral coast) the engine goes all sputtery and I lose 90% of my power for 5-10 seconds and then all is well. FWIW, I just replaced the exhaust (cat back) and seem to have got some power back I didn't have before but the symptoms above still exist. TIA for any leads.

Could you look it up for me? I only have the Haynes and the info is not in there.

85 MPFI EA82 non-T 3AT I did a compression test this weekend and found readings of 130 for all cylinders. I know it's good that they all match but I have not been able to find what the reading should be.

Thanks. I've runs about three tanks of premium gas threw her with injector cleaner in the first tank. The car was running and then sat for a week before I bought her and then sat another two weeks while I replaced some parts. thermostat, distributor, cap/rotor/plugs/wires, oil/filter, AT fluid, fuel filter and two hoses, radiator flush

85 MPFI EA82 non-T 3AT Bad idle on at cold start. Once it dies out after the first crank it takes right off just fine. Also, after the car has been pointed downhill (say driving or stopped at a stop sign) it wants to stumble for 10 seconds and then it regains its power. Driving under power downhill does not make the symptom show up but coasting does. Any ideas? I'm also getting really bad gas milage.