FleaDog

Ok guys I got the Job taken care of. Strangely got a p0115 coolant temp sensor code when letting the motor warm and refilling radiator/system with coolant. The very first time the fans cycled The motor sort of momentarily slowed down and picked back up. I went and glanced in the cabin and saw the cel so grabbed th scanner and got that. Erased it and started back up and continued with the refill without it poppin back up again.

Ok guys I got the Job taken care of. Strangely got a p0115 coolant temp sensor code when letting the motor warm and refilling radiator/system with coolant. The very first time the fans cycled The motor sort of momentarily slowed down and picked back up. I went and glanced in the cabin and saw the cel so grabbed th scanner and got that. Erased it and started back up and continued with the refill without it poppin back up again.

Edit - 95 legacy not a 94. Doing t-belt job. Got the covers off and I only have one gasket in b/w them- the one on driver side lower down. Are there supposed to be others? How many and anyone have a link or part numbers to buy em? Dealer best? Thx!!!

Thanks for the great tips, gonna buy one of the timing belt/water pump kits, etc. on eBay for like $135 shipped. Wiped everything down good started the car and it looks like coolant is somehow leaking slowly out from around water pump gasket/mating to the block; not bypass hose, or T-stat flange/gasket/elbow.

HI guys dumb question I know but ive got a new coolant leak that developed recently - it is dripping off of water pump housing above where the thermostat and elbow pipe under the t-stat. I am figuring this is the pump, but wanted to ask if there are any other hoses above or in that immediate vicinity that could be leaking and fooling me. second thing - can I swap the pump without removing the timing belt? thanks

95 legacy stock 190K miles I get that characteristic faint rattle sound of knock, pre-ignition, gas ping, whatever you want to call it at around 2250-2500 rpm under mild partial throttle conditions only, such as slowly accelerating or going up a hill. Most pronounced using 87 octane and gets about 50% better with 93 octane. its still winter grade gas here but this has been going on no matter what the season. Could this be a bad knock sensor - I know they can go bad and not throw a code. thx for any tips.

got the parts from the supplier noted. contacts $3 each and new plunger $8.50 thx again

THANKS !!!!

Hi guys called the dealer parts dept and its confusion. anyone know ? thanks!!!

I've got a suttle ticking noise that sounds similar to the ticking noise in the videos on stuck hla's. That's why I was gonna check/clean/replace them if needed.

thanks so much for the tips. yes, the potential problem of not seating the TC when removing/ reinstalling the motor is my biggest fear. doing tons of research on that. Should I check/clean/service the hydraulic lash adjusters?

thanks for the tips. Are the cam seals the same front/back (2 of the same set)? Ive got to take the sprockets off to do the cam seals, so whats the best game plan to tackle that in lieu of the rest of the TB job.? loosen the bolts with the belt still on. they are key'd, right? thx

Whatup guys I have a 95 legacy L wagon with 4eat auto trans. Engine has 185k and runs strong. I am unsure of the service history so I am going to pull the motor to do the full TB job. It also appears to have the oil separator plate leak symptoms which stinks (literally). So while I have the motor out I want to take care of as much stuff as I can to remedy future problems/leaks. Here goes: 1. Full TB job, OE tstat 2. new separator plate, screws, sealant, thread locker 3. new oil pump O ring, new screws on back plate, thread locker 4. new oil pan gasket 5. valve cover gaskets, spark plug bucket gaskets 6. cam seals 7. rear main seal only if leaking any tips, wisdom appreciated!

OK got the the new crank pulley in and it is still wobbling same amount but the noise is gone. I also replaced the PS/Alt drive belt. So I am not sure what the noise was coming from. Could have been the old belt, the belt not under enough tension. I did manage to break the piece of hardare that the tensioner bolt threads into on the AC compressor tension pulley with my impact. There was a lot of corrosion on the threads so shoulda sprayed them down first. So without the AC comp/belt until then (its winter oh well). Crank pulley bolt came off fine, crank pulley didnt want to. Needed to get creative using a long pry bar with the tip under the edge of the crank pulley levered carefully on the alternator above. That along with some penetrating spray and wiggling it back forth gently and it eventually gave. Woodruff key looke decent so I didnt fuss with trying to fish it out. The existing crank pulley keyway slot looked fine too. So I guess its wobbling because of the crank?

BTW - new woodruff key comes with the dorman crank pulley I ordered from rock auto

And here they are: http://s126.photobucket.com/albums/p99/drxt78/?action=view&current=E472E4ED-2534-4909-B411-0B9BAA4215C5-793-000000A966F98E10_zpsbe793869.mp4 http://s126.photobucket.com/albums/p99/drxt78/?action=view&current=2EFFF2EF-41DA-4264-8EEA-C0E1B63E9572-793-000000A949DEBBFA_zps4ae7d239.mp4

Noticed my 95 legacy with 185K crank pulley is wobbling and making a cricket like noise. Ordered a new woodruff key and bolt from the dealer as well as a new dorman crank pulley from rock auto for $33. Also will do new belts while I'm at it. Will shoot a video of it and post it up shortly. Will attempt the change when all parts arrived fingers crossed.

Got a few rust areas on the bottom fenders/bottom sill/fascia. Whats the best remedy for these? I was going to wire brush, sand, and at least prime with one of those rust-stopper products then pain over or simply coat with inner wheel well spray. thx for looking

looking at bulb: Looking at socket:

OK i think i got it sorted out, i mixed-up the pins on the bulbs. Correct when looking at the back/base for all H4 bulbs afaik (not looking at the pin socket/stock harness): top horizontal pin is low beam, left vertical is common, right vertical is high beam.

Re: my light output issues: dan stern emailed me back saying: "You've got the wires swapped to the left and right vertical prongs of the headlight bulbs. This operates the high beams normally but puts the low and high beam filaments in series when you switch to low beam. Swap the left and right wires, leave the top horizontal wire where it is, and the problem should go away."

one light isnt going out if thats what you mean, they are both on.

got it working using you instructions, thx! im using the osram narva 100/90w i bought from dan stern the highbeams are awesome, huge difference. however, the low beams seem like half as bright as they should be... id sa about the same as regular bulbs... something maybe wrong?

great tips. to clarify, above where u mention the bulb pins, so the pin that was for the common hot is now what you're calling the ground pin? thx