rllywgn

for a turbo you should run 91 octane or better. reduce chances of detonation.. rllywgn

http://www.radiatorbarn.com/s7.asp?ac=Y&year=1987&make=SUBARU&model=DL%2C+FE%2C+GF%2C+GL%2C+RS+OR+RX&submodel=ALL+MODELS&engine_size=H4%2C1.8L there ya go... 2row radiator brand new.. 135. to your door rllywgn

wrx turbo may be the way to go.. anything in a junkyard is gonna have some miles on it anyways and you run the risk of running into the same problem you have now, even the old legacy turbo's.. wrx turbos will typically have lower miles and most likely more life left in them.. the uppipe flange is different but little modification can solve that.. downpipe is also different, ebay has a ton for cheap (100.00) and your good to go there.. other wise your left with routing coolant and oil lines, turbo intake and turbo to throttle body.. use a wrx intercooler for best results caboobaroo has done this, as well as a few others... rllywgn

just thought i might say that the 1156 isnt the original bulb.. when i got them I liked the bulb color.. (blue) i had to widen the hole a little bit and "gently" cram the bulb in.. the factory bulb has the same base as an 1156 but a different glass bulb sorry for the confusion.. I miss that car! rllywgn

just a few posts down in this retrofitting catagory is your answers.. most of them atleast.. search keywords: 5lug swap, 5 lug (try in retrofitting catagory for best results the 5lug swap is a well covered topic

i thought it was april fools day again... thread pruning.. rllywgn

I didn't..

maybe something to justify the extra money.. I've never seen a shop pull a window.. to much liability. I've seen customers bring in glass though.. you know the project car isn't streetable yet... rllywgn

I hate to say it but living in the right areas help.. in Vancouver, wa and Portland, OR. the best quote i could get for my sedan was $300... Las Vegas, $140 for life time warrantied metal reflective. Hot climate area's are gonna be cheaper.. more competition.. typically atleast rllywgn

xt6 hubs, rotors and backing plates. still using the factory air suspension in the back. should be picking up front and rear wrx struts in the next few weeks.. although the air ride has been helpful to keep the car looking level.. otherwise looks like the trunks overloaded rllywgn

I like it too! I love it when a plan comes together.. rllywgn

id check to make sure the axle's will work (25 spline) but everything else in the front should work.. the backing plate in the rear should also work but, i believe the rotor and hub is different.. you can use the rear caliper from your xt though.. rllywgn

hey tosh.. I know the guy who gets these personally.. if you decide you need a flange from him let me know rllywgn

one man kit's do work well.. about 10 bucks at any parts store.. I just did my brakes yesterday.. a cinch.. just layed under the car, put the hose over the bleeder valve, opened 1 turn and pumped the brakes 3 or 4 times.. each wheel.. rr - lr - rf - lf.. rllywgn

I was wondering what happened to this car! b e a utiful.. I must say it was the initial inspiration for everything I've done to my subaru's since I first saw it. consider me envious (sp?) rllywgn

i kept the legacy tophats.. widening the bolt holes took 30 seconds.. this is the second 5lug I've done.. but the first with something other then xt6 parts.. My old 5lug turbo wagon is somewhere in colorado now.. ebrake is my main concern.. would like to get something figured out for that in the next few weeks.. I know this has been a topic for many.. I hope to find something that works and is easy to install without a ton of fabrication.. we'll see.. Also have I heard that some Impreza's had 2 piston calipers.. anyone with more info? rlllywgn

for the front i was thinking of going the coilover route.. not a fan of cutting.. just my preference. the rear hubs are xt6 also, I used the existing calipers for now until i can source something with a rear ebrake Im also on the search for a cheap set of wrx struts.. we'll see how that goes.. this pic is with ride height enabled.. almost evens out.. trying to decide if i wanna keep the rear air shocks or go coilover.. giving it some rake on demand is neat.. rllywgn

when i originally posted i was one wheel short of having the swap completed (snapped my 1/2" breaker bar.. really hulked out on it apparently) so the rear end of the car sat a lil lower then it should have.. well with all 4 wheels/tires on it now sits maybe a 1-2" higher in the front then the rear.. with height control its all good.. no pics until tuesday.. by the time i finished the last wheel tonight it was dark.. but heres a teaser i guess you could say.. WRX wheels look sweet.. so much better stance.. better pics tomorrow.. In case anyone is wondering.. heres the shopping list i used: xt6 rotor and backing plate for the rear xt6 front lower control arms, ball joints and tie rod ends 92 legacy: struts axles spindles/hub/knuckles caliper/rotor No E-brake at the moment.. gonna play around with some various rear calipers and report back.. although i do plan on using a legacy or impreza E-brake handle and cables.. word rllywgn

from what I understand rotella is a heavy duty synthetic.. perfect for turbo cars.. I know many folks that praise the stuff and I plan on using it with my next oil change. ...and walmart has about the best price I've seen on it 15 and some change for the gallon. rllywgn

I'll be able to post pic's tonight.. theres 4 or so inches of gap between the tire and the fender in the front and 1 inch in the rear xt6 lower control arms and tie rod ends. 92 legacy hubs, knuckles, rotors, calipers and struts/springs. 02 WRX wheels and pirelli tires rllywgn

so i did my 5 lug swap and used legacy front stuff.. the legacy springs were a cinch to install, but now that the car is back on the ground the front sits awful high.. anyone encountered this? any thoughts? I still have air suspension on the back of the car and with it engaged it almost evens out.. kinda looks like its lifted.. perfect timing though.. two bad front cv's and needed new brake pads rllywgn

wet sand it out.. 600grit should do it.. spray can is too close to the work surface.. tiger stripes no good.. only on tigers rllywgn

I have! twice! they are in Portland so they were a quick drive.. top quality imo. they do start with used cores but everything internal is brand new when you purchase a complete head... valves, springs, seals, etc I would buy from them again rllywgn

yes as stated above blown head gaskets are a pain.. but for an RX, I would fix it. BHG's have a few symptoms that go along with them.. sweet/white exhaust when its cold, frothy oil (check the dipstick), blow by in the cooling system - when the motors at running temp you'll have bubbles blowing in the radiator (start with rad cap off and let it warm up).. constant overheating is also a pretty good sign if the rest of your cooling system is ship-shape.. turbo's will blow seals on occasion.. oil in the intake tract is a possibility but can also point to a faulty pcv valve. coolant leaks within are a little harder to tell. an easy test for a cracked head is as follows: loosen the exhaust at the head and slide a piece of white paper in between the head and the flange and re-tighten the exhaust (both sides) let sit overnight, then remove in the morning.. if the paper has liquid discoloration you have a cracked head.. typically on the passenger side of a turbo car is where you'll have cracked heads 1st.. #3 cylinder runs the hottest. as for the cv.. a new boot may do if it hasnt been bad for that long (sometimes) or a replacement axle.. 100 bucks at autozone if you can DIY hope this helps rllywgn

I bypassed the thermo switch on my car entirely.. the connecter for the fan is right next to the thermoswitch on the radiator (passengerside). Wire in some 14g from the fan output to a switch and viola.. connect to battery or another power source and a good ground and your set.. add a inline fuse and use a 20amp or greater switch. just make sure you remember to turn it on everytime.. I don't let other people drive my car for this reason.. rllywgn