cal_look_zero

Bump. I have all the interior and the roof rack for it as well, just took it out when I was cleaning the car out.

Anyone? Anyone? Bueller? I will part it out with enough interest. I haven't even begun looking at what my 78 needs, but I'm probably going to rob the bumpers and a couple lights off, otherwise game on.

I stumbled upon a much cleaner, running driveable 1978 4WD DL the other day, moved my Enkeis over to it, and now I'd like to send the 76 down the line to someone who will actually finish it or use it. If nothing else, I may part it out, even though the PO asked that I wouldn't, the rusted floors and missing wiring just made it not feasible for me. It's a clean titled 1976 DL 4wd wagon. All 5 doors open and close and latch nicely, The engine is complete and turns over despite the distributor being left out and water getting into the crank case. The interior is all there, but needs work. It has a complete set of 4 of the 8 spoke steelies, and 4 more solid steelies if you want. It hasn't run since I've owned it. All glass is good. The floor pans are rusted through, need patch work or replaced. It also has some small cancer spots in the rear quarters and by the fuel door. The front grille is... I dunno. It's ugly and not oem. The wiring under the hood was hacked up and not something I was able to source to repair/replace. The car is located in Grants Pass Oregon, currently rolls and steers and can easily be loaded up onto a flat bed truck or trailer. Looking for best reasonable offer, but let's start with $500 and go from there. I'm keeping the Enkeis...

http://medford.craigslist.org/cto/5453175818.html This popped up on craigslist this morning. My 76 was left to rust in a field, and a lot of the wiring is shredded along with the brakes being locked up and etc etc. How much of this guy would I be able to cannibalize onto my 76? I'm primarily concerned with if I could pull the wiring and engine and stick them in front of my drivetrain, or if that's simply not as easy (mechanically) as it is to do with the newer EJ cars.

Dragging this up from the dead. I'm about to be in possession of a free 92 loyale, and wondering how much, if anything, can swap over to this chassis? I haven't made ANY progress on it since my last posting nearly 2 years ago, but I am looking to get it moved to my shop and start drying it out again and figuring out how much is salvageable.

It won't work unless you cut the flange off and rotate it to the correct angle. Not to mention there won't be any improvements except maybe a smidge more top end past like 5500 rpm

All of my previous links broke, so here's the pics again. Haven't made any progress unfortunately. Between running the shop and building the OBSTi up, it's gone to the wayside. Still hoping to find a donor vehicle soon for a wiring harness and some other goods.

Bumping this. If no one is going to pursue it, I'll take a shot at seeing if the machine shop I use would do them. They would be spacer style where you bolt the adapter to the hub, then bolt the wheel to the adapter. 15-20mm thickness.

If you could have them offset dual drilled for 5x100/114.3, that would cover about 95% of wheels anyone would ever want to run. I'd be in for a set

I started off yesterday excited that my distributor finally showed up, and now and sad because I realize that the wiring under the hood is more hacked up than I figured. Unfortunately, I can't even find wiring schematics on Mitchell On Demand, so I'm hoping someone here has access to such materials. I am planning on redoing most of the wiring, and going to blade fuses to bring everything up to date a bit, just need a little guidance on where all the hacked up wiring is/was supposed to go. Thanks!

Center differential. Any phase 2 (99+) 5MT unit will work; outback, impreza, wrx. Should be about 5 hours labor, center diff, gasket, and new fluid for the tranny. It's incredibly rare for the front diffs to have issues, all they are is moving parts. But the viscous coupler in the center diff can bind and cause clunking/hopping on turns, especially when the car is warm. Plus, with the front diff being RIGHT over the drain plug, they would be finding chunks or at least big slivers of metal on the drain plug. Whereas the VC of the center diff is more stealth.

Looks good to me!

I have a full set off my OBS... I'd take $50 shipped for them, and I'll hunt down the hardware so you don't have to monkey with it. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=231014235102&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT

You HAVE to use teflon on the threads, otherwise you'll get a bouncy reading at idle. Otherwise it's decent. I have the little pocket next to my 12v plug under the stereo, I clearanced it out and used some double sided sticky to hold the gauge in. Mounted my boost and AFR gauges on the steering column, but they're a little more important to see real time as opposed to looking down for 1/2 a second.

Let me be clear; I am not posting the following to be discouraging. That being said, throwing performance parts at a frankenmotor is a huge waste of money. After I had built my 25D/22E frankenmotor with flat top pistons, delta cams, msd coil, intake, 2" exhaust, grimmspeed phenolic spacers, 370cc Nissan injectors, Perrin LWCP, and a pro tune on perfect power 6... I was making 123hp/145tq and had spent about $2500 including the tune. And it NEVER ran quite right. Some days it was great and torquey, other days it would crap the bed when I put my foot into it. After I blew that engine up, I built a hybrid EJ257 block with EJ205 heads turbo engine with catless up pipe, catless turboback exhaust, and a tune, and made 225hp/305tq for about $2800 including the tune. Granted it was a lot of work to merge the harnesses and do the swap, but the return on investment was well worth it. ________________________________________________________ I just built a 251/22E frankenmotor for a customer, totally stock everything except head gaskets, and it drives beautifully. I would say to leave cams and other parts out of the equation, because in my experience they only serve to muck things up.

That's the plan. I was going to sell it, but no reason to not have a spare rig when the Imp goes in for open heart again this month.

That's not a horrible price for all new. The bearings are a huge pain on the cars, and expensive. I would advocate new tie rod ends, new ball joints, and a used knuckle to tide you over. $150 for an alignment seems steep, I pay $80 at the dealership. As far as driving on it, it's not the safest move, but everything is held together by the axle/nut, so it's not as though everything is going to fall apart on the road.

Wow, thank you Ferox. I'll be gleefully ripping and tearing things off this weekend when I have a little more free time.

Not sure if the water cooled turbo affects heat that much? I have a huge C&R radiator in my Impreza, takes a good 7 miles on the freeway before the air gets warm. Don't even bother with the heater on the way to the shop in the morning.

I already have the carb kit, I was just a bit put off by the mess of hoses and such. A picture or thread on getting rid of that stuff would be great. I ordered both filters, no sense in not changing them at $3 a piece. I haven't messed with the timing or anything as of yet. Wanted to verify it was all mechanically correct before I try adjusting things.

Any thoughts? I'm wondering if not that the fuel filters are clogged, maybe the pump is bad?

Cap, rotor, and wires checked out. Replaced the plugs and coil. Starts up and idles great, but still bucking under load. Fuel filters were both clear and clean. Timing issue perhaps?

Just picked up this 84 DL 4WD. It surges/bucks really hard going up hills or under heavy throttle. I'm guessing that it's probably one or both fuel filters clogged up, but the electrical looks pretty suspect as well; coil looks original and wires are a bit crusty. It starts right up and purrs like a kitten though... I've heard the stock carb is terrible to try and rebuild (Looking at the mess or vac lines, I see why), so I'm hoping to avoid that. Or I'll weber it. Either way.

Would be a lot easier to swap an rs front end on, but I am curious to see your end result!

Rotella T 10w30 for the engine. A good 80w90 in the rear diff Run "Scotty's Cocktail" in the gearbox: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=920674