cal_look_zero

That's it? Buy it back. You can get doors for cheap, paint them, and do WRX swap with cash left to burn. I figured the whole B pillar was pushed in. You'll be in the car for a long while since branded titles suck to sell, but if it's worth keeping, I would keep it. Pfft. My clean title 97 had more damage than that.

I would throw a new disc in. It's like $70 for one and will save the headache down the road; especially if the old one was soaked in oil.

If they're willing to give you FMV of $5300, it means there's probably more than $4000 in damage. If you're handy, you could part it for way more than the $1000 buyback, but if not, walk away and find another one.

I'm going to be helping my dad install an EJ22 into his 85 weekender, and will be fabbing the motor mounts and building a one off header. We aren't wanting to tackle the harness though, how much would you charge to merge a harness?

After 5k miles on my EJ25D/Singleport 2.2 heads, I have the following to report. Improved fuel mileage over my 2.2; about 1.5mpg. Surprised me as well. Obvious huge power increase over stock 2.2 Consistent P0304 that never goes away for more than a week. PRE has informed me that it's a result of running a light flywheel, and is nothing to worry about based on the tests I've performed. Powerband is 2000-5500rpm. Does have power from 5500 to fuel cut around 6k, but not as balls to the wall as pre 5500. Torque is ridiculous, I may need to go to a stronger clutch than the KSB04. You absolutely need a grounding kit. Something about the config of the engine really requires a more stable electrical system.

I have a 97 OBS and I have a set of 03 WRX seats in it; front and rear. But those are the wagon seats and took a bit of finesse to get them in. From reading a bit more, all impreza (WRX and STi included) seats from 93-2007 are interchangeable.

Fronts will bolt right in. Rears I'm not sure about.

I used OEM bearings. The part number for the Cometic gasket is H1631SPK040S.

That's my understanding of it. It doesn't build much more pressure than stock, but puts out more volume.

From what I gather, the 11mm+ STi pumps are too much and can cause a starvation if you're using a stock pickup tube. Not interested in finding out, but I'm running a 10mm pump off of a WRX. At least the guy I bought it from said it was off his 06 WRX. The whole argument on NASIOC became confusing as to what sizes were what, I just know it flows a whole lot better than the stock 8mm pump.

Proper Frankenmotor: EJ25: Short block and injectors (unless you already have the 280s) and flywheel if you are off roading. Cosmetic hybrid head gaskets EJ255: Oil pump EJ22: Everything else. More compression = more heat, 10mm oil pump is the ticket. The 22 flywheel is about 4 pounds lighter than the 25 so you lose a little torque/rev a bit quicker.

ACL bearings are crap from what I've read. As far as the head gasket is concerned Cometic makes one specific to the frankenmotor. I believe the phase 2 (99+) EJ22 heads flow better, but don't know for certain.

See bolded. My franky runs with WRXs all day.

You'll be more money into that than you would into a wrx. Just build a frankenmotor or buy a wrx. Once you get through engine management and fancy internals, you'll be about $4000 in the hole and will be making little more power than a bone stock wrx.

Changed out my injectors with a set of known good redtops. Problem went away for about 3 days. Came back while I was accelerating over 3500 downhill on the freeway; minimal load. Checked my fuel pressure today, 28psi at idle and 37 with the FPR vac line disconnected; within factory specs. Doesn't mean it's volume is good per se, but the pressure is. Pulled the fuel pump assembly to look for any glaringly obvious problems. Took the pump "sock" to the parts store to compare it to a new one. Parts counter guy said that if the one I brought in is original, it's the cleanest he's ever seen. Looked just like a brand new one. Cleaned the sock with spray carb cleaner, blew it out with air, and reinstalled. Broke my OBD2 scanner, so I gotta do the battery disconnect reset. We'll see tomorrow if I fixed it. The only other possible conclusions would be ECU related, coil related, or a false misfire as a result of the slightly lighter 2.2 flywheel behind the 2.5 engine. Which would suck since I just bought an underdriven lightweight crank pulley. I wouldn't care about the CEL if it were a bogus fault, but my fuel mileage seems to suffer as a result, so I want it fixed. Running list: New plugs and wires. Replaced injectors and FPR. Fuel pressure tests out within specs. Compression and leak down tests good. Timing good. Cam/Crank sensors good. Recent Bosch o2 sensor. Recent fuel filter. Fixed minor exhaust leaks.

Or Impreza/WRX/STi. All EJ Subarus use the same mounting for the front seats. I can vouch for WRX seats of the 03 vintage being especially cushy.

I'm swapping in a set of redtops with a different FPR tomorrow morning. With any luck, that will fix my issue(s). Being me though, I need to try and figure out if anything else would attribute to it. Dirty fuel pump sock? Failing fuel pump? Bad fuel filter out of the box? Coil going bad on one plug only? I've gotten the ugly flashing CEL during acceleration which means that cylinder is over 10% out of spec on timing, so it's just outright not firing at times. I'm inclined to guess that I have a dead/dying injector and that's it, but I'd like to be prepared to change out other things if need be. Very irritated having this fun new engine and not getting what I paid for so to say.

Generic aftermarket are going to be for both. Either you connect the AT lines to the radiator if you have them or not for a manual.

It's on the potentials list. Don't think I have a reliable way to test other than to throw a different/new one on though. I have a few laying around.

Back on this. Drove up to Eugene over the weekend and the car was more gutless than my Loyale was. Got back and started testing all the theories I could grab: All 4 injectors ohm out at 11. All 4 injectors make the same noise through stethoscope. All 4 cylinders are at exactly 230psi compression. So I unplugged my fuel pump to get ready to swap injectors, turned it over to relieve pressure, realized I didn't have enough time before work, and plugged it back in. All of a sudden, the car is running smoother and the CEL disappeared. The plug on the fuel pump wasn't loose at all, so I don't think it's a short; more like a coincidence. If the CEL comes back, I'll throw that set of injectors at it and see what I come up with.

I think they're the same fitment as the 04 STi springs I have. Which would make them a direct swap for 89-91 Legacys, 93-01 Imprezas with rear tophats from 89-91 Legacys, and 92-99 Legacys with WRX rear struts. The only one I'm certain of is the Impreza.

Here is how mine sat on tired rear struts and stock OBS springs: I'll sell you the springs for cheapish, I replaced them with STi springs.

I used to feel the same way. But when company X makes a product based on the designs of company Y, and it yields the same results as company Y's product, but at 1/3 the cost because Y feels that their monopoly on the market allows for price gouging; I'm certainly going to buy the cheaper product. Why would I spend $130 on a Flossy shift knob when Blox makes one just as heavy and for $40? Why would I spend $200 on an AEM CAI when I can buy an eBay intake for $60 that flows just the same? I'd like to support the innovators who bring the product to the market, but in this economy you have to price competitively.

Well start with replacing the knock sensor. Then check the PCV on the intake manifold. Replace plugs, wires, and fuel filter. And run a can of Seafoam through it. All told, less than $100 and 1/2 an afternoon. Sounds like it just needs a little maintenance, and a little "How's your father?" to clear out the crud.