cal_look_zero

Except I just had the heads professionally rebuilt... Not to say it couldn't happen, but it's very unlikely. ________________________________ I reset the code last night before I left work, and the car runs better than ever. Came back on this morning and started to run like crap again. Reset it, and it runs fantastic. I'm going to seafoam it for now and see if that "fixes" it until I have the money to rebuild my extra red tops and drop them in. Almost certain that #4 injector is on the fritz.

I've got a complete intake mani from a 98 EJ25D that I've been procrastinating on hucking at the scrap yard. Maybe I'll swap that over tonight and see what I come up with. FPR is on the passenger side thankfully. Can anyone verify that the injectors are the same flow?

I thought I had the issue resolved, but I suppose it's still relevant. Ever since I built this engine, it's felt not quite right; tends to idle a bit low and rough, terrible power below 3k rpm, slow to accelerate upon heavy throttle. Franken motor, ej25d block under ej22e single port heads, delta 200 grind cams. First, I'll go down the list of what everyone recommends in other threads: - New NGK BKR6E11 plugs within 1000 miles - New NGK wires withing 1500 miles - New valves/springs/retainers and valves adjusted to .010 and .008 less than 3k miles ago. - Cam timing is good, I've have to get to the oil pump 4 times now so I'm getting to be an old pro at timing. - New I/M gaskets 3k miles ago. - New front o2 500 miles ago - New fuel filter within 3k miles. Where I'm at is that the ignitor, coil pack, and injectors are 15 years and 235k miles old. I'm leaning towards the injectors but don't have much money to throw at it right now. It's only ever been P0304, never the other 3 cylinders. I hadn't gotten the code for awhile until I was hard on the gas going up hill last night and my MIL/CEL started flashing for about 30 seconds then went steady with only P0304 code. I have a known good set of EJ25D injectors, and am wondering if I could use those in place of the stock EJ22E ones, or if they flow too much and will cause more harm than help? I'm thinking I need to swap 2 and 4 and see if I can get a cylinder 2 misfire? Or is there a more diagnostic approach than swapping and trying to replicate?

Case structure is such that you assemble the block around the rods and crank, then put the pistons in. No way to do it otherwise.

Ok, you're going to have 14mm 12 point bolts hiding in the water jackets. There's also a 10mm bolt hiding in the bottom under the oil splash plate, and a 12(?)mm in the back under the crank. Once you have ALL of the bolts out, you'll need a 14mm hex socket to remove the 3 piston access plugs in the block. From there, you need to remove the circlips on the wrist pins, and rotate the crank until you can look in through an access hole and see the OTHER side of the wrist pin. I take an 18" length of 1/4" round stock and tap the wrist pin out instead of trying to pull it towards me. It takes some time and finesse to get. Once you have all 4 wrist pins out; you can proceed to split the case halves. I took a putty knife and wiggled it in to separate the sealant from the halves, then pulled. Getting those access plugs out is practically impossible without a 14mm hex socket. And getting the wrist pins out will suck on the first couple, and be a breeze after you figure out how to position everything. Good luck!

Now that I think about it, there has been some "stepping" of the speedo needle under heavy acceleration, as well as some whining that I know is the speedo cable... Guess I need to get in there and check it out. Hopefully it's simple like lubing the cable.

I drove up north on Friday which is about 120 miles on the freeway. The car drove fine for the initial 90 miles, but the last 30 the car was surging while cruise was engaged. The speedo never moved from about 73, but I hooked my laptop up and my digital speedometer (reading from ECU) was going from 70-75 and back. Also, my estimated load value was changing as the speed did. No CEL and no driveability issues, and it did the same thing on the way back; fine for most of the way, then surging and ECU speedo bouncing. Is this related to the speed sensor at the transmission, or something else entirely?

Stock RS 6 spokes.

What's your upper limit for price? And you're settled on a new gen hatchback? Because I know of 2 or 3 blobeye (04-05) STIs for under 18k in my area. Clean titles.

I run 91/92 in mine with cams and thinner head gaskets. Powerband takes some getting used to; 4k rpm on up is tons of fun. Glad I went with the heavy springs and keepers in my heads.

Yeah, don't buy an 08. Ringland issues, ugly front end, narrow body... blech. I know of an 07 with 55k for $10,500 up here, so $17k is really high for a non NW car (NW has "Subaru tax", they're more expensive here than somewhere like LA)

Yep. Those teeth tell the crank sensor when to fire. If it's missing one, it will never run properly.

After more research, it seems that gutting the cats creates expansion chambers like on a 2 stroke dirtbike... which is a bad thing on a 4 stroke engine. Guess I'll just have to build a track pipe

Subaru of America just made this their main cover photo on Facebook! https://www.facebook.com/subaruofamerica

So when I was running the stock 2.2, I was averaging at best, 21mpg mixed driving. Not even heavy footed; 67 on the freeway/cruise, shifting at 4k, easing into the pedal. I attributed it to the old engine, blowby, and the like. The BEST I had gotten was 25, all freeway around 70mph. Not really impressed. I hear of WRXs topping that mixed. Now that I have the new engine in, it's more of the same. My suspicion lies in the cats. They have around 235k miles and are white was a sheet. When I had the exhaust out, I debated gutting out the cats since I live in a non emissions area, and could maybe pull a bit more powaaa since that's the restriction in my exhaust now. Couldn't bring myself to do it. Now that I've researched more, I feel that the cats are the primary culprit in my sub 2500rpm stumble (I have a really wonky rear o2 reading under moderate acceleration), as well as my bad fuel economy. I can "mask" the rear o2 sensor with a spark plug non fouler to avoid the CEL. More power, better economy... why not? Can anyone give me a good reason not to do this? Aside from the granolas who think I should hug a tree and leave the cats.

Valves are probably bent all to heck. If she overheated it though, you'll be wanting to replace the head gaskets for sure, so I guess it's a "While you're already in there" fix at this point. EDIT: I guess I should ask what your level of mechanical skill is? Changing valves isn't the hardest thing in the world to do, nor is head gaskets. However, as you've now experienced, they are things that can kill the car if done improperly.

+1 on HGs.

I just snapped a picture of it in Medford, OR today. One mean looking beast of a car.

Out of nowhere, the car started pulling HARD. All gears, from 2k rpm on up. I guess something finally wore in or cleared up.:brow:

I've been planning on building something utilizing a 22b style scoop on the passenger side of the hood to force air into the box with a simple baffle/bypass for water (PNW=lots of rain/snow) But generally speaking the scooped hood/MAF combo is far more scarce than the MAP/scoop combo of the 2.5rs, so it may be cost prohibitive to build.

97 Outback Sport. Under the center console.

I have my interior taken out because I thought a WRX carpet kit would fit (it doesn't) and was wondering what the crap this thing is? It's not the brake switch, so I dunno...

Wow, that scoop based CAI is sick... too bad I'm MAF.