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Everything posted by cal_look_zero
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Ok, need a quick and dry answer. Found a set of heads on CL that I want to buy so I can build a longblock instead of having to use my stock heads and being down for a few days. Problem is, the heads are all over the place as far as configuation. Here's the configuration: EJ22 Single Port Bodies Solid Lash Adjusters Flat Tappet Rockers Cams unknown. I thought there was no such thing as an SLA/flat tappet configuration, and especially that all single port heads were roller rockers. I'd hate to buy these if they're damaged as a result of micx n matching incompatible parts.
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Welp, as of today (according to my data logger) I'm steadily at the upper end of 25mpg; which I'm totally happy with. Apparently the snow tires and roof rack caused enough rolling resistance/wind drag to drag 5mpg off my averages. Guess I'll just take 30 minutes to swap everything back on when I want to go ride. I'm still planning on replacing both o2 sensors as PM, when I put my new engine in though. I have to imagine 230k miles on sensors is probably well past their effective usage.
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Put my street tires back on, removed my snowboard racks, and reset my ecu after doing a compression test. Got almost 25mpg realtime at 70mph. Interestingly though, when I started out, it was at 27 or 28mpg, and as I got closer to work, it dropped to 23 or 24; even when I slowed to 65. Compression was iffy also: 1 - 190 2 - 205 3 - 200 4 - 180
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I've finally pulled the trigger on getting everything situated to build my frankenmotor. I decided to rebuild one of my ej25d blocks; start from split cases and end up with hopefully around 185hp/180tq for under $1000. Here's the build list as of now: EJ25D core engine - $75 Cometic H1631SPK040S hybrid head gaskets - $100 ACL 5M8297 Main Bearings - $45 ACL 4B8320 Rod Bearings - $28 GT NPR 12033 AA760 STD Piston Rings - $68 Delta 1000 grind cams - $180 Singleport SLA/RR 2.2 heads with port match. $50 (So I can work with them while not having to tear my engine down. Grimmspeed 8mm Phenolic spacers. - $80 Gaskets - $100 Machine Shop Labor - $100 ______________________________________________________ Basically, I found out from a rather potent frankenmotor build on SLI, that Cometic makes an ej22 head to ej25d/1 block head gasket that optimizes coolant flow. I'm purchasing my rings, bearings, and head gaskets through Built Industries, and I HIGHLY recommend dealing with them. I imagine that I'll have more to add as I go, but thus far I'm stoked to get the project rolling and hopefully install the engine sometime before my birthday in May. Luckily, my timing set is brand new, my clutch is brand new, and I can do all of the work outside of decking the block and heads by myself. I'll be keeping a detailed log of my progress as I go and taking lots of pictures to aid in anyone else's endeavors into this territory.
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So I determined that if I keep the car cruising at about 72mph (3100 rpm) my realtime mpg is 22 on flat, and if I keep it at 68mph (2750rpm) my realtime is 26mpg on flat. Clearly, there's some sort of trigger around 3000rpm that richens the crap out of the fuel mixture. This is also with a snowboard rack and 205/65/15 snow tires at 34psi. Next tank I will pull the roof rack and put my street tires back on and see what I can achieve. I found no signs of vac leaks and my catch cans are pretty dry which tells me that the blowby problem is minor.
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Opinion on Headgaskets
cal_look_zero replied to wentz912's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I did the HGs on my EA82, in car, in about a day. Brakleen and scotch brite pads to clean the mating surfaces, get the heads milled/resurfaced/decked, and use quality gaskets and heavy duty engine reassembly lube. And don't forget to reseal the oil pump! -
I'll advocate for replacing the wheel bearings and seals. I don't understand the mentality of replacing a failed used part for an unknown condition used part when new is only a bit more. I did both front wheel bearings and all 4 seals for $135 in parts. Rotors though, $20 a rotor to turn or $32 a rotor to replace. Definitely buy new.
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Well I logged all of my engine readings while driving to work at a refresh rate of 270 snapshots per minute. Was able to determine that my upstream o2 is running up to .95v with an average of .51v and my downstream was indicating a max of .88v and an average of .32v. On the freeway, my average upstream was about .75v which indicates a fairly rich condition. Average fuel consumption was about 22.7mpg according to the realtime data, with my engine load at an average of 25% of max. My average throttle position was 15% of max; so my right foot is not the culprit. I suppose it's time to start hunting for parasitic vacuum leaks and and pre cat exhaust leaks.
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Car is aligned, plugs and wires are newer (3k miles), fuel filter was clogged a bit so I replaced with Wix. Exhaust smells normal, but I shot the MAF with MAF cleaner for good measure. Car has 230k miles and noted blowby. I installed the catch cans I've had for awhile (one at valve cover T into airbox and one at primary breather into airbox) and noted improvement in throttle response after a couple of Italian tune up pulls. Going to order a bluetooth OBDII dongle and do some real time CBM to see what the computer is doing. Moreso out of curiosity at this point, but also for the sake of seeing if I have a sensor that's within parameters but causing a rich condition. EDIT: We have E10 here. I had to get a whole new dyno tune and remap done on my bike just to get it to run, so I'm sure all my cars hate it as well. Causes dieseling in my F100 if I have my timing even slightly advanced.