cal_look_zero

This keeps getting better and better... :horse::horse: I popped a very brief CEL tonight. Stopped and hooked up the greens and drove. Went from the "all good" blip, to a steady flashing CEL. So I pulled over, disconnected the green, connected the black, and got this laundry list: 11 Crank angle sensor or circuit 22 Knock sensor or circuit 35 Canister purge solenoid or circuit 41 Air/fuel adaptive control 42 Idle switch or circuit 49 Airflow sensor 51 Neutral switch (manual transmission)/inhibitor switch (automatic transmission) So I wrote em all down, then connected the green and black, fired up the engine and got the all clear blip of the CEL. Turned off the car, disconnected the black and hooked up the greens. put the car into d check, and drove home with the all clear blip. Get home, disconnect the green, hook up the black, turn the key to on, and guess what... 11 Crank angle sensor or circuit 22 Knock sensor or circuit 35 Canister purge solenoid or circuit 41 Air/fuel adaptive control 42 Idle switch or circuit 49 Airflow sensor 51 Neutral switch (manual transmission)/inhibitor switch (automatic transmission) Same codes as before. No CEL on under normal driving, "cleared" the codes, and they STILL come up under the stored memory. And I cooked through nearly 1/4 of a tank in 35 miles. Correct me if I'm wrong, but the car won't run if there's an issue with the crank angle sensor; right? Which would then mean that my ECU is storing ghost faults and adjusting everything as if they were real codes which results in CRAP fuel economy? EDIT: I'm a stupid monkey. Followed this http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.php/Knowledge/ECUReset and everything cleared and runs 100x better now.

Kinda need more details. Like what broke? Or are they just not working, or...?

No codes; stored or during d check. But the stumble has been solved; at least the source. I noticed it right off today as I was about 5 miles into my drive to work. Decided to test a theory I had and took it off cruise; no more stumble. It's something related to the cruise system, but at this point, I can live with it.

CEL definitely does work. I had briefly considered the cam sensor, fortunately I have a known good one laying around. So I cleaned the o2 sensor, put in a new CTS (hoping that helps mpgs) and installed the known good cam sensor. Going to run it in d check today and see if anything comes up. Don't want to replace the oxygen sensor, but that's the next step. I say I'm not too concerned about it because I'm going to run a catless setup on the UEL when I get the money together, so fouling cats won't be an issue.

Not sure if you were directing that to the mistu or the ford, but I have excuses! The mitsubishi, I "modded" it when I was 19 and had just gotten it. It's needed o2 sensors for awhile now, but at nearly $300 a set... bleh. I also put a short ram intake on it, or as I've known for awhile now, the "sucking hot air" intake. The ford has a crappy 2bbl motorcraft carb that won't feed the 302 in the top end unless I have a richened fuel mix. I need to sack up and put a nice progressive 4bbl on there.

Well damn, I thought I could get away with the Google providing useful answers, but no such luck. Still working out the kinks on the Legacy. Fuel mileage still sucks, but I'm whittling down the possibilities. One thing I'm fighting with is that the car will occasionally "stumble" at highway speeds. 70 or so mph, cruise control on, the car will buck like it all of a sudden has no fuel. Fuel filter is newish, and the pump works fine on heavy acceleration above and beyond 80mph (closed course) I have no engine codes, but I'm leaning towards a fouled o2 sensor based on the crap gas mileage and this inconsistent stumble. Tomorrow I'd like to pull the o2 and give it a once over. I "fixed" the obscenely expensive o2 sensors in my Mitsubishi with a scotch brite and contact cleaner. I'd like to think about other options; both for what may cause the stumble, and other ways to bypass the o2. I would prefer to inline a resistor or trick it some other way, because frankly my dear, I don't give a damn about o2 sensors. Fuel filter is newish, this stumble has been present ever since I got the car, recently seafoamed the intake and gas tank (didn't seem to help or hurt anything), plugs and wires are new, new knock sensor, and bob's your uncle.

I think we all know that the mpg threads are going to be getting more and more frequent as Jack Frost tightens his icy grip. Perhaps instead of flaming everyone coming on here for not using the archaic search function, we should compile some guru knowledge into a sticky? What causes poor mpg, how to diagnose it, how to fix it, etc etc. I for one, had no idea that a bad coolant temp sensor could cause a richened fuel mixture if it reads the engine as being cold all the time. Makes total sense when you think about it of course, but not many people correlate these things. What say ye? Or am I just...? I'd start by saying to check for codes, check your knock sensor condition, and check your coolant temp sensor.

I used to always draft semi trucks in my old VW. The most obvious benefit was that I could actually maintain freeway speeds. The local ski area is about 8 miles off the freeway. I would draft a semi all the way to the off ramp, and drive up at a normal pace. Dual carbs would never run at the elevation after being cold all day, so I would push the car out of the lot and coast all the way back to town. 74mpg... does it count if half the mileage was coasting with the car off? My Loyale gets 26ish mixed with stupid little tires, and the Legacy is only on it's 2nd tank, but I'm at about 19 mixed with an exhaust leak and probably dead o2 sensor. I have a heavy foot, and average about 75mph on the freeway to work and back. Couple of steep hills, and lots of left lane campers who throw off the pace. My Montero gets around 14-15 and my Ford gets 12, so I'm not going to complain. I could have gotten a 38mpg 1.5l civic, but I like the idea of being able to go boarding before work.

Go to http://www.uship.com, post up the weight and size, and shippers will bid war for your business. I shipped my CBR, loading ramps, gear, wheels, and tools from Texas to Oregon for $500, when I had gotten quoted $1200 from anywhere else.

I've recently (within last 2 months) done the whole shebang to both an EA82 and an EJ22. I did everything short of splitting the block on the EJ22, and it really is worth the peace of mind.

hachi roku

Doing the HGs in car isn't horrible, just fyi. I would do them for peace of mind. They're cheap, and easy to do.

A bit outlandish.

Thanks to Tony (Meeky Moose) I learned a valuable lesson about not trusting how a fuse looks from the exterior; specifically the big 30A ones. My "SBF No 2" had blown in a spot not visible until Tony wiggled it and it was obviously in 2 pieces. Jumpered the terminals and she fired right up. All old sensors, ECU, and CEL are fine. Well now, don't I feel silly?

That's ok, I'm waiting til I get the sensors Monday before I delve into trying a different ECU. I am however, going to pull the dash apart tomorrow to see if the CEL is just burned out.

New (to me) one should be here Monday, along with a new (to me) cam sensor and a new knock sensor. Strange, strange enigma this morning, I had been testing the cam sensor and forgot to plug it back in. Had fogged a little starting fluid into the throttle body and bumped the starter and it kinda sorta chugged like it momentarily got spark. So I think replacing the sensors is ideal. Like I said, I did drop the harness on accident, so who knows what may or may not have gotten knocked loose.

flat bill hat - check gauged ears - check hellalame stretched stance - check BROBARU MODE IS GO!!!

It's not getting spark either. I have 12v going to the coil pack, but no spark at the plugs. I don't see how the ECU could crap out since the car's been sitting, and I didn't do anything silly like reverse the polarity of the battery. Although if you wouldn't mind bringing it by, I'd be very appreciative.

Just think of it this way; if you add a quart every 500 miles, you NEVER have to change the oil. It's always fresh! I'd say checking out the RX wouldn't hurt. There's 3 kinds of people with cars just sitting in their driveway; people who want them gone, people who will never sell them, and people like me who insist on learning everything the hard way!

I'm a dunce. Details would help eh? Ok, the reason I have any issues at all is that I pulled the engine and resealed/replaced the clutch. It ran ok, save for the burned out clutch and leaky HGs. CEL never lit up upon key "on", but everything ran and worked fine. Fuel pump kicks on, cam gears are on the correct sides, no missing teeth (ones that the sensor reads) from the crank gear. I dropped the harness with the knock/cam;crank sensors when I took it off the block. Hit the concrete hard enough for the brittle knock sensor housing to fully break in half; thus my um, logic(?) of replacing the sensors with known good ones instead of the risk of damaged ones failing on me.

All fuses and connections are good. CEL has been disabled, that's part of my punchlist. I'm not 100% sure why I don't have either fuel or spark; thus replacing both sensors. I'm going to dig a little deeper Sunday when I have more free time. I'll get it sooner than later. Better to figure it all out now while the car is down for repairs than when I'm all the way up the mountain snowboarding.

Yeah, it's got a good connection now and reads a small ac spike; engine still has no pulse to the fuel injectors or coil. Bought a new knock, and used cam/crank sensors from BHeinen.

New desktop.

Yeah that's the one, but if you want some cheap wheels, wait a week for me to finish the Legacy and you can buy the Loyale! Not really. Maybe.