cal_look_zero

Could someone do me a solid and ohm a good crank sensor out for me? The crank sensor "testing" that the search returned has too many "should be"s and "I think"s for me to trust any of it. The white wire to red and to black is showing 1.0xx K Ohm, and black to red is showing 55 Ohm.

Very nice job bringing that car back from ricer hell. WHEEEEEEE!!!

I was only able to get about 3" on either side. I've repaired shielded wire before. Not a fan of it, but it's not impossible. I'll report back tomorrow if it worked or not. Where's the smiley banging his head against the wall. Couldn't be a cheap sensor, had to be the one that costs as much to replace as the car was...

3 wires coming out, internally it's 2 wires wrapped in exposed thin strand wire. Should be able to replicate that.

Pretty much what I'm thinking. It's 3 wires, but easy enough to splice. It's pinched right on top of the block, no gaskets to worry about.

I can't see exactly what it was that did it, but I pinched the wiring for my crank sensor when I was reassembling the engine. Looks like it's pinched between the water neck and the top of the block, but that's irrelevant now isn't it? It's pinched badly enough that 2 of the pins are showing an open connection with each other. My easy question, at this point, am I going to lose anything by cutting the wiring on either side of the pinch, adding in a little wire, and splicing it all back together? Seems I have nothing to lose at this point... To answer all possible questions: Timing is correct, belt is brand new, 12v to the coil, no pulse to fuel injector plugs, no power between center and either outer pin on coil plug, all grounds connected, battery has 12.25v, one good pin on crank sensor shows 1.024k ohms, all pins show ac voltage hop upon cranking, and for the love of pete I rocked the search button.

Heh, looks like the dual weber 44idfs they ran on VW engines. What a pain they are to sync.

Oh yeah, it's using that much. My car amazingly (335k miles) doesn't have the TOD unless the oil gets low. I went 600 miles between checks and had under 3 qts in it when I changed the oil.

I have some more 5/8 hose laying around, think I'll try that catch can idear. Although a new "wtf" presented today. I drove about 5 miles to drop my son off, and noticed a tiny wisp of smoke come off the driver's side almost from behind the headlight as I was walking back to the car. ~2 minutes had elapsed since I shut the car off... hmmmmmm.

Identical. Same internal number stamping, same weight, everything. I'm so over the OEM vs AM argument myself. Same dang argument I get in the paint world. Truth is, I could paint a car better with Krylon than anyone off the street could with my $1k gun and premium PPG paint. Why? Prep and procedure. Do it right, take your time, and triple check your work. /rant.

I already have the combined hoses (The "Fixed" Version) and compared the OEM part to the $3 AutoZone one, and they were identical.

I know at the rate it's going, I would see/smell the smoke in the exhaust. I didn't change the valve stem seals though.

Sounds legit. I just fully resealed the engine and cleaned everything, so I'd be able to see a leak easily. I've checked the intake a few times and it's nothing more than a residue. Never any blue smoke.

This is more of a game show trivia question than a "help" question. My Loyale uses a lot of oil. No obvious loss of power nor unusual noises (not even TOD) and I get about 5mm below the 45psi mark on my oil pressure gauge during normal driving. Currently running a Bosch oil filter, and standard Rotella 15w40 oil. These are the symptoms/tests/solutions I've gone through thus far. Symptoms: Uses approximately 1 quart of oil per week/400 miles. Light oil burning smell after commute (~30 miles). No scent or visual indication of oil in the exhaust. Engine fully resealed within 3000 miles. 1. Blowby: Engine shows no obvious signs of blowby. My compression is around 165psi on all 4, and minimal changes when a squirt of SAE 30 was applied to the cylinders. Plugs are not oiled. 2. PCV system: I saw a bit of oil in the intake tube so I replaced the hoses and PCV valve. Cleaned the intake tube thoroughly to be able to check later on. Very minimal residue present after roughly 1000 miles and 2 quarts of oil replaced. 3. Leaks: None. Nothing from the HGs, VCs, filter, drain plug, oil pump, oil pan, front or rear mains, cam seals. Even went so far as to suspend a piece of cardboard directly underneath the pass side of the engine in case it was being burned off by the cat. Conclusion: Through the intense power and torque developed by the EA82, it acted as a supercollider and incidentally created a small black hole which consumes oil at a steady rate.

Definitely an RX, but I have more pressing matters at hand financially, so I didn't bother looking further into it than taking a walk down the street and looking a little closer. If anyone is interested in pursuing it, I'll knock on their door and ask about it.

I just finished putting mine back on. Pending on your driving situation and maintenance history, it could be fine to leave them off. Personally, I put them on since at any time, I could spill oil or maybe have a dribble from the p/s pump. Plus I'll be running in some deeper snow at some point, and would prefer to keep that whole set up nice and dry. As far as sucking up a badger and doing catastrophic damage? Not going to happen. I'll get a pic up here shortly, but I drilled a hole in the side of my passenger side timing cover and stuck a rubber body plug in there. Inspection port ftw.

Yeah, I already have the metal one on there, another reason I know someone was back there at some point.

Ah, ok. Mine was seeping pretty well, but someone's been back there before. Makes sense. I'm replacing it all the same, might have better luck with a new one. Baffle plate was sealed with what appears to be bathroom silicone caulking; obviously it was leaking as well. /threadjack Thanks! Just rolled over 335k last night. Still runs like a top.

Oh details details!:drunk:

Everyday when I'm taking my son to daycare, I've seen an EA82 front end in a driveway, there's always a car next to it and the house is right on the other side, so I've only seen the nose from the front; in passing. Today, I drove past and there was no car next to it, and saw that it appears to be an RX? It's a 3 door, has a full lip/side skirt kit, might have a spoiler, and looked like it had the 80s-tastic writing on the side. Considering seeing what it is and if it's for sale. Question being, just how rare of a car is it, and would it be worth the time and money to pursue it? Or are they (I hate to use the term, but) throwaway cars like the GLs and Loyales?

To go one step further on this, it's not Subi specific to do the water pump when you do the timing belt; it's common knowledge. Your guy is obviously a scam artist or a sheisty mechanic; maybe both. Simply put, any mechanic (professional or weekend warrior) worth his salt is familiar with WYAIT; While you're already in there. It's like pulling the engine to do a clutch job, and not replacing the rear main; while you're already in there. If I were in your position, I'd keep my eyes and ears open for who the "go to" guy in your area for Subi stuff is. If nothing else, try and find a local car forum, or even post an ad up on craigslist looking for one. Good luck.

Yeah, someone should tell Subaru WRC teams that one... That engine looks like a *************** to work on in car. Let's hope it has reliable HGs, yeah?

Firstly, welcome to USMB. Secondly, show this to your "mechanic"... I would fix it, but then again I could do it myself for $100 in about 4 hours. If it's in good shape, you could get it fixed by someone who's not a scam artist, and sell it to recoup some costs incurred. According to AutoMD, any reputable shop should only charge about $300 including parts.

Lots to take into account. If it has good tires, clean title, decent interior, good axles, and everything is good except the spun bearing; $400 is a good price whether you fix and drive or fix and flip. Source a lower mileage shortblock out of a wrecked car, stick it in, and sell it/drive it. For me, I'll buy a great car with an engine needing work because the engine is really the easy part. Tires are expensive, transmissions suck to work on, and interiors take forever to clean/repair.

I'm doing the HGs right now on my 91. I purchased a generic gasket set off eBay (flamesuiton, been using them for years) as well as a new clutch set. You'll be wanting to get your heads resurfaced, and might as well do the timing set and water pump while you're in there. All told (Including the clutch and machine shop work) I'll be less than $500 into everything. If you're pulling the engine, you can do the rear main seal and clutch if you'd like. I didn't want to tackle the job in car since there's very limited clearance. Gasket set Timing set Water pump Coolant Oil Ultra grey RTV for the oil pan and oil pump. Engine assembly lube for the cams.