cal_look_zero

Yes, yes, new, and new. I'm really not stressing on the mileage yet. I have less than 100 miles on the car and honestly am happy it's even running.

I'm going to do Seafoam through the vac ports into the intake, in the oil, and in the gas tank (Breaking down and buying the gallon since I seem to use it so much) plus an oil change. Going to hit a few 6k rpm pulls and see how much of a 007 smoke screen I can blow out.

Wait a second... You guys mean to tell me that a standard EJ25 block is a direct bolt in? Like all the accessories and heads bolt right up? Motor mounts all the same? I hope there's more to it. Otherwise I'll be pissed about passing on a $20 EJ25 short block...

You can fix it mechanically (maybe) by changing the oil pump seal. From personal experience, Marvel Mystery Oil helps for a short term, but my newest "snake oil" fix is Engine Restore. I haven't have any ticking since I started running engine restore, and it's burning less oil than before as well.

There's a few of us here, and a bunch of Subers over on All 4 Driven. http://all4driven.com/index.php

Wish I still had the pictures of the baby raccoon that went through the belts of my Montero. That was ugly and stinky to clean up. That'll learn the little bastage to sleep under my intake.

I'm not going to complain too much, considering that I've been giving the Legacy the ol' "blow it out the tailpipe" method of clearing out the carbon, but it seems to be getting exceptionally low mileage. Like around 15-18mpg; even on the highway. I know on the Loyale, my PCV and bad timing were causing a drop in fuel econ, what are the go to fixes for fuel economy on the EJ22? Compression is good, tires are well inflated, etc etc. I'm not going to worry too much until I get a chance to change the oil and triple seafoam the engine to clear the boogers out, but I figure I should look for other possible causes for concern as well.

???

Testament to the awesomeness of the EJ22. 240k miles; perfect compression.

You could have an issue with your fans operating properly or perhaps your radiator fins are blocked up by dirt and crud, but your more likely suspect is: Head gaskets! Sorry to say it. Combustion gases leaking into the water jackets causes overheating under load. Fortunately you're catching it early, probably before any real damage has been done. Fortunately there's a lot of USMBers up your way who can help you figure out exactly what it is, and maybe even help you fix it.

Just acquired the car. Getting the punch list ironed out. One less thing to worry about.

Thanks again for this. Lowest cylinder was 182, highest was 187.

Thanks for the tip. Found out none of my cars are liened or have been in accidents. Score!

Nobody likes a showoff... I'm going to test it tomorrow. I had to get new plugs and wires. Kind of hard to warm up when it only wants to run on 2 cuz you ham fisted the wires and left the clips on the plugs...

Really? Crap, I guess the $200 Snap On tester I calibrated mine to was crap too...

Yeah, as of right now it's sealed up with Prestone Super Sealer. I know, I know... but I want it driveable while I diag the suspension and chassis needs. I did it with the logic of "I'm going to pull the engine apart in due time, whats the harm in trying" and this stuff is the least nasty, in my experience, to get out of a cooling system. I bought another set of jackstands (finally) so I'll be putting it on stands tomorrow and hopefully getting a feel for home much love the chassis needs. Brake pads, axles, tie rod ends, ball joints, diff leaks... who knows??? Has an ABS light on. Not sure how pressing that is, considering I'm not a fan of ABS as it is...

Our throw away society is how I have less than $1000 into 2 running Subi wagons!

It's really dependent on what you want and how important aesthetics/new car goodies are. The phase 1 EJ22 (90-97 iirc) is considered to be the best engine Subaru ever produced. Minimal HG concerns, reliable, cheap to maintain, etc. However you're in a car 14 or more years old unless you swap into a newer chassis. If it's been maintained, you're golden. As long as you're not concerned with new shiny, you're golden. On the other hand if you think a cat job and fuel line repair is $2000, I have some oceanfront property in Idaho for sale. Your mechanic is scalping you on that quote. http://motors.shop.ebay.com/_Car-Truck-Parts-Accessories__?_sacat=6030&_dmpt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&_m2home=1&Make=Subaru&Model=Outback&_myi=2001&_rkw=catalytic You can buy a cat for $250 shipped that bolts right in. If you're not the type of person who wants to yank and engine and do it yourself, find a well respected and recommended Subi mechanic, and have them do the HGs correctly. Heads should be checked and machined flat if need be, multi layer HGs, coolant conditioner... They need to be experienced and thorough. Any shop can do HGs, a good shop will do them right. There's a lot of truth to getting 150k out of a good HG job on the 2.5s; even more truth in <30k on a bad HG job.

Doable? Absolutely. Advisable? No way. You're basically looking at taking the comfort, style, and handling of the 80s, and wasting the baddest MFer of the 2000 era by putting it into the 80s chassis. Not to say I wouldn't do it for novelty and shock value if I had the money... But if it's a purposed build; it would be a waste; in my opinion.

I know of a good Loyale shell (hell, the engine just needs a freshening) down here for $200.

It's not that hard to retro in heaters, and VW seat heaters are the way to go. I had a 99 beetle that I had remote start in. I'd start it, go take one more run, and would have those seats hot enough to thaw my frozen butt after snowboarding all day. I'd actually have to turn them down after I was warm b/c they got so warm.

FML... My auto shop teacher will be getting an irate call about this.

WOT? To what RPM range? Or just put it to the floor and let off a couple of times? Mine are all at 120 cold. Going to test them warm once I find out exactly how to read it.

Well, it's 156 - 185psi warm for those interested

What kind of numbers should I be seeing out of the Legacy? I got 120psi on all 4; cold and dry. I thought I had seen 170-180 in a thread a browsed awhile back, but I can't find it and am not sure if that was warmed up, wet tested or what. Any help would be super.