cal_look_zero

I have an 04 STi fuel pump in my OBS. Pretty sure it's along the lines of 90-07 that fit.

Yup. 95 was the only year for HLAs and roller rockers. After that they went to SLAs.

All you have to do is swap the cams and rocker assemblies from a 96+ phase 1 head.

White tops are garbage and came in the 89-91 legacy FWD (only?). Every set I've seen was literally falling apart, and I've only seen them in the FWD cars. 220cc Grey tops were 91-97 AWD 2.2 and tend to be a reliable work horse, though their flow rate leaves much to be desired after about 150k. 240cc Red tops came on the 2.5 and I've had a few 2.2s come in that had them, not sure if they're swapped or not. Seem to be the most resilient to mileage and usually survive being pulled from the rails 280cc

I run Bosch filters. I started my mechanic tenure as a lube monkey at an Acura dealership, and the owner of the dealership had an NSX (Along with a lot of other expensive cars) and swore by Bosch. He told me to crack one open and compare it to the Honda OEM ones and a Fram one. Needless to say, I've always ran Bosch since then.

Your "friend" is charging more than I charge customers for that job. Just FYI. I find good used 2.2s for $100-$300 on CL and in junkyards. I don't know what all is involved with the swap in terms of ECU/wiring, but it can't be much more than that. Might even be able to find a cheap ugly donor car and scrap what's left to make up some money.

If my math is correct, it sounds like you bought a 99. Head gaskets going sounds like it's a DOHC 2.5 legacy/outback. For what you'll be into it for an HG job, you may want to consider the 2.2 swap, there's like a dozen threads on it.

25D's and their wonderful 48mm rod journals throw bearings like it's opening day at Fenway Park.

I still don't get it. It's not like you have to do a t belt more than once every 100k. So making the possibility of failure greater, while reducing your labor time by literally 14 bolts every 8 years seems really silly to me.

FM modulators. Total garbage. Lots of bleed through simply because there's no such thing as a true "dead" station. My suggestion is if you have the aux, to get a cheapy 7" tablet off of eBay and use that as a hard drive of sorts to allow for downloaded media. You can leave it in the car for the most part, and if you have wi-fi at the house, you can do all of your downloads over that.

Update. I hate these damn things. Completely threw off the daily driveability of the Impreza. Rear end has too much HNV, loud going over bumps... They suck. However. The rear of the car feels much more stable under heavy driving. That said, I'm putting stock lateral links back in. These will be for sale if anyone wants them.

You should probably clean up the posts on your coil pack to ensure good continuity with the new wires. Little steel wool.

Are you sure you snapped an e brake cable and not the equalizer cable from the handle?

It's the wire, not the coil pack. There's a lot of amperage in there, so do this with the car off: Try pushing the wire (not boot) into the pack further. If the short still persists, glomb (Technical term) some dielectric grease into the boot and jam everything back into the pack. The dielectric will help direct the arc into the wire and not the surrounding metal. Short term fix until your new wires arrive.

I'm guessing it's the "trigger wire" and should be an easy fix after lurking on subaruoutback. The cupholder I'm not terribly concerned about. The sprayers probably need to be blown out. I am glad I bought a base model with manual HVAC; means I can stick an aftermarket deck in with minimal hassle.

Got myself an 05 to commute in. 102k, about to do the 105k this weekend. Things that are wonky with it: Rear cupholder won't close apparently. Passenger seat heater is non op Windshield sprayers are weak and dribble instead of spray. Not too much to complain about, but I wouldn't mind fixing everything. Other than those items, it's a solid car.

Balanced symmetrical AWD system vs torque steer for days biased weighted FWD car on a twisty road: Advantage Subaru. You can come into corners hotter, mash the gas and not understeer like the FWD chassis cars. The rear drive wheels serve to "push" the car where you want it, as opposed to a FWD dragging the car outside of the apex. Now if the civic were track prepped, I'd give him the advantage based on the ol 9k redline and better use of power to the wheels.

A few is probably right, but the 251 flat tops coupled with the DOHC 25D heads would be a great platform to start throwing power adders at as well. Should be close to 10.2:1 over the stock 9.5:1 from the EJ25D

http://www.harborfreight.com/plastic-welding-kit-80-watt-iron-67102.html Plastic weld. Best part about it is that you can go to a junkyard, get a scrap of bumper plastic, and never need to buy material to "weld" anything. Confession: When I was first getting into dirtbikes, I got a set of plastics for free that were chewed up. I had a cheap soldering iron, and bought a bag of army men from the dollar store; used them as a welding medium. It was ugly, but it worked.

Need your email address, I have the wiring diagrams saved in .pdf

Yeah... torque for daaaaaaaaays. I love it!

Current buildout: Engine: EJ25D block and stock internals; balanced EJ22E single port heads; port matched to exhaust manifold Delta 200 “HP Grind” cams Grimmspeed 8mm phenolic spacers Custom made 2” UEL and axle back. 370cc side feed JECs injectors Exedy stage 1 clutch kit. Perfect Power SMT-6 Tuned by Pre (123hp/145tq) Suspension/Wheels/Brakes Alt Rush AT362 Wheels 17x8 45ET Goodyear Eagle GT 225/45/17 Tires KYB Excel G struts 2004 STi springs Paranoid Fabrications ⅜” saggy butt spacers WRX 17mm rear swaybar WRX brake master cylinder and proportioning valve GSP adjustable rear lateral links and trailing arms 2002 WRX disc brake swap Goodridge SS brake lines. Kartboy rear subframe lockout kit. GAB strut bars Group N Pitch stop Interior: 2002 WRX seats front and rear OEM WRX underseat subwoofer Prosport Premium 52mm oil pressure gauge Innovate MTX-L Wideband 2002 WRX Momo steering wheel Blox 490 shift knob Custom built short shifter Kartboy shifter bushings WRX pedal covers Pioneer Bluetooth/USB head unit Pioneer 6 ½” door speakers (Front) Power Acoustik 4” door speakers (Rear) Subaru All Weather Floor Mats 20% VLC tint Aesthetics: Hella Supertones Clear corners LED license plate lights Projector fog lights Rally Armor mud flaps Badge of Ownership

Get rid of the cone filter and the HIDs. You're screwing up your MAF signal and blinding everyone oncoming when you have those things on. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1471819 http://store.candlepower.com/trabhidki.html Save that crap for the Honda scene. /grumpyoldman Otherwise, nice to see another GF back on the road!

Wanted to add to this. After my recent rash of transmission work (Stuff seems to come in droves) I got sick and tired of having my aluminium jack only lifting 14". It was a process of lift, get stands under it, lower and add a wood block, lift some more, jack stands, work. Which really sucked on my car since I had to lower it in 2 stages as well; otherwise I could get the jack out with the block. Enter; 5000lb shop jack: Minimum clearance of less than 3" and a lifting height of 20" make this a very useful asset. It feels much moire solid and confidence inspiring for lifting to maximum height (Though I wish the foot had some sort of rubber pad) Still got the aluminium one for an extra/track days.

Great success! 123awhp/145awtq I found out that a stock 2.5rs makes around 98/105 on their dyno, so I'm making about 25/40 better than a normal 2.5. My torque is insane now, and my fuel economy was even improved as a result of the tune. The 370cc injectors that the skeptics were dogging, actually come in to play at 4500+ WOT where the map zeroes, but most of my map is scaled negative to keep me from running rich at lower fuel requirements. All told, yes, I have way too much time and money into the motor. I'm at about $2000 now including the labor to tune, but I also built it from the ground up with lots of new parts and know every single thing about what has gone into the engine, and what did/didn't work. For comparison's sake, (And I know every dyno is different) a stock 2.5rs is doing 108 on a dynojet, and 120ish on a mustang dyno