cal_look_zero

Assuming you mean the big alternator/ac compressor mount, then yes, the later model EJs had them. Both my 97 and a 96 I'm rebuilding have aluminium ones.

Well I went completely bonkers. In addition to the PP6, I built a hybrid intake, went with an MSD 8239 coil, and 370cc JECs injectors out of a Nissan 240. Looking for no less than 130awhp on Saturday when I get tuned.

I've been using their kits for years. Seals are at least OEM quality, may very well be them same as OEM. Just use the seals in the kit. Mizumo doesn't sell junk.

Coulda had a Mitsuboshi... http://www.ebay.com/itm/90-97-EJ18-EJ22-Subaru-Impreza-Legacy-1-8L-2-2-GMB-Water-Pump-Timing-Belt-Kit-/260925954274?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cc06618e2&vxp=mtr

I've heard that the SuperPros are tougher than stock, but not solid poly like Whiteline or TIC. http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Super-Pro-SPF1907K-Rear-Trailing-Arm-Bushings

I've got a set of struts (OEM KYB 20k miles) and springs (OEM 40k miles) from an 02 WRX for $200 + shipping

You also want to get a bit of oil on the washer/bolt head surface. The torque specs are for a "wet" torque. Doing it dry causes more friction and inaccurate torque readings. Ej22 heads means EJ22 bolts and EJ22 torque specs.

Don't use anything on the head gaskets. Don't worry about ambient temperature, even RTV will cure in "well digger's rump roast" cold temperatures. Don't worry about running an .040 HG and don't waste time mocking it up with an old one. I decked my heads .010 and have no clearance issues, am running .040 Cometic MLS gaskets, and I'm running high lift cams. Have fun:headbang:

What are the chances that the banging coming from the tranny could have tripped my knock sensor? My car feels like it's running a lot stronger and meaner off the line than before. I don't have a scanner right now, but it feels like it's pulling a lot less timing.

WOW... That bearing has been attributing to a lot of drivetrain noise I guess. All I hear now is the exhaust and the rattly interior. So my transmission mount modification included a tube of polyurethane from Home Depot, a ton of packing tape, and some ingenuity. Basically, I wrapped the whole transmission mount in packing tape, sealed off where the stock rubber is, cut a small opening in the tape and shot it up full of polyurethane. So I only filled in where the "Group N" has material. By taping it, I was able to mitigate how much air space ended up in there. Threw it in the oven for about 12 hours at 220*, and voila. Not to say it compares at all to a true Group N or anything, but it is notably better than stock, and only cost $5.85 instead of $80+

Transmission went together smoothly, ran out of daylight though. Hopefully it installs a bit smoother than it came out. 1st time is always the worst. The old bearing, I'll keep around to play jingle bells on come Christmas time lol. I was noticing that my stock transmission mount, well, sucked... I decided to tinker a bit with polyurethane filling. Hopefully I'll have good results to post up tomorrow.

I disagree about the 2.2 rebuilds. There's a market around here among people who want a brand new (or at least rebuilt) 2.2 engine; and are willing to pay for it. I've done 4 this last year, in spite of recommending a good used engine, some people insist on it. More money for my go fasts.

This sucks... A little more of a task to drop the tranny than I had imagined. The bearing in question though, was totally kaput. Now to see if my parts show up soon... Makes me glad I invested in a press though!

Still need someone to remake this into "2.5 Litre" 140mmx16mm or so

I just drove a 95 Legacy Sedan about 4 hours north (to sell) that had 322k miles. I use the Einstein approach when judging mileage; it's relative. If the car looks good, drives good, sounds good, etc... Go for it!

You should see how bloody hard I flog my 25D bottom end under 2.2 heads. Fuel cut kicks in at 6k rpm... Just saying. But I agree, They're lame stock. I balanced mine and am running tri metal rod bearings that should be slightly more reliable than the stockers that went kaboom.

Most places now (At least locally for me) Have begun to make "custom" battery cables for about 1/3 of stealership. Just take the old one in.

I can't PM yet, but if you'd like for me to take a look at the car, I'm local to you and could help out. You can email me: cal_look_zero@yahoo.com

I got in touch with the manager of parts who says that the 225100 references a turbo 5mt gearbox and should be the beefy one; overnighted it and gave me a decent discount. In any case, I'll be able to get cracking on it tomorrow night after work and hopefully do a nice little write up on things.

Look how small it is though... And it doesn't have the snap ring. It's the wrong one for the application, however it looks like:

This looks wrong... Called them back and ordered the 806225100. Any ideas what this one is? EDIT: The 806225100 is the 10 ball bearing from what the parts manager said.

I'm a proponent for the FM, but all told, it's been a trying 8 months for me in terms of getting it to run proper. The idea is that it's a cheap way for EJ22 cars to make good HP, I failed at that. All told, I'll be about $2000 into my build (Brand new, from the ground up mind you) and be making very close to stock WRX hp. If you do the basic 22 heads on a 25 block and leave it at that, you should be happy with it. I have cams, injectors, piggyback ecu, intake spacers, oversize valves, pnp, and etc... and will just be getting around to getting it tuned in February. Keep it simple.

For a second I got your post count and age mized up and thought you were 13 years old. At least that's the impression I get from your posts. A completely gone through and resealed 96 longblock with new WP/timing belt/idlers/tensioner, valves adjusted, and HGs done right is worth $1000 ALLLLLLLLL DAY. Since you clearly don't possess either the skill set or the time to do it yourself, I figured I would offer it to you, but instead I sold it local for $1800 installed and getting to keep his old engine for a core. Snooze you lose. If you want to have a wongleflute attitude and not take any advice, I'd recommend you head on over to NASIOC and post your questions there. They're a lot friendlier to inexperienced noobs with a chip on their shoulder.

It only takes about a day to build an engine once you have all of the parts. I've done about 7 now, and my very first one is coming up on 25k uneventful miles. Just saying, you could save a few thousand by building it yourself. Otherwise, I have a 190k mile resealed 2.2 longblock for $1000+ freight with new HGs and such.

If you're capable of putting an engine in the car, or swapping heads; you're capable of rebuilding a short block. $.02$