cal_look_zero

At 10 years old, this car was the coolest "attainable car" I had ever seen. I mean, I like to mountain bike, and roller blade, and all that jazz; that's the car for me... 15 years later.

Godspeed stuff is VERY hit or miss. Given that it's not really a moving part (Like a turbo which they also sell) I can't imagine it could be too bad. I'm still on the fence about doing the whole rear end of my car with their kit. http://www.ebay.com/itm/GSP-02-07-WRX-STI-6-PCS-REAR-LATERAL-LINK-TRAILING-ARM-/260834552691?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cbaf36b73&vxp=mtr but given that all my laterals and both arms are bent to some degree, it's cheaper and hopefully more sturdy than OEM and I probably can't lose too much by trying it.

Goes in under/behind the water pump.

Well fine then. I guess I'll install it and see what I get for results.

I was stripping down a blown to hell EJ25D for bolts and such, and discovered that it had a factory OEM block heater. Works like a charm too. My franky has a bit of cold start piston slap, I don't live in a very cold climate (lowest it gets here is teens) but I was wondering if running the heater for about an hour in the mornings might mitigate the cold starting issues? Thoughts? (If I'm barking up the wrong tree, I'd be happy to sell the heater to one of you Canucks)

Jiminy cricket... I need to start charging more for my rebuilts.

I started following this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=137845 After I noticed my engine was pulling timing BADLY. Like down to 0*. Before I noticed that though, I swapped out my MAF and coil pack with no changes. Just for grins, I threw a junkyard ignitor on and saw a little better performance, furthest I could pull timing was to 6*. Then, I decided to try my old knock sensor. Voila! Hasn't dropped below 12* and that's completely lugging and sticking my foot it it. Drove about a full tank and got better fuel mileage than I have all year; on snow tires nonetheless. I'm going to keep at this and see if there's anything else I can change out. 250k miles; I'm guessing my stock cats are probably in abysmal shape, so I may be building a track pipe to test out that theory too.

I just want to say that these little lights are AMAZING. Insanely bright and easy to magnet or hang from their hook just about anywhere. I bought 10 of them and stashed them in the cars and around the house.

$3800 with a core? That engine better jump off the pallet, dance a little jig, bring me a coffee, and install itself.

Well, the snow was a mite deeper there than I though it was going to be. Glad I didn't charge into it.

Been following this thread a bit. I pulled up my timing advance and am having it pulled back to as far as 6. I replaced my ignitor with a junkyard one this morning and never saw it go further back than 12. Seems like there may be a few things that all need to align in order for the cars to run right. Frustrating...

There's eight 12 point head long length bolts, two 12 point head medium length bolts, seven 6 point (12mm head) short bolts, and one little turd 10mm head bolt that goes under the oil pan. Sorry I don't have measurements, hopefully that helps a bit.

Well your best bet is to open it all up on a warmish day and let it burn off. You could also put a couple tubs of "damp rid" in to soak up any humid moisture. Otherwise, pull the interior and carpet and use a good extractor on them to pull all the moisture out.

I have a 95 "parts car" that I have access to (That I forgot about until 10 minutes ago) that should have the MAF and coil pack, possibly the ECU that I can test against. Thanks for all of the help. I'm trying to avoid having to go standalone and getting my car tuned, but that will be the last recourse if none of this pans out.

See bolded above.

Valves are definitely perfect, got a 5 angle and new valves 14k miles ago, everything checked out fine and the machine shop who did it has been at it awhile. Plus my leakdown results were negligible. No MAP as it's a 97. My TPS reads 0 to 89% as intended, fuel system loop goes open and closed as normal. I guess the 2 main things I'm after are what my MAF should be reading at (The fact that it doubles under throttle worries me) and if there's a comprehensive coil pack test that I can do to make sure it's good?

Valves are set to .008 I and .010 E Dry starting compression is 240psi across all 4.

So as I've mentioned in postings past, my 97 OBS has NEVER really run right. I've never seen good fuel mileage (I averaged 22mpg all year, 80% freeway) and ever since installing my franky, my symptoms have gotten worse. Engine build: 1998 EJ25D block, balanced 1997 EJ22E single port heads Delta 200 cams for roller rockers NGK BKR6E11 plugs (OEM) NGK blue wires Grimmspeed 8mm phenolic spacers "Redtop" 280cc injectors (OEM 2.5rs injectors, FPR, rails) MAF Stock drop in dry filter Stock intake 2" UEL, stock cats, Bosch o2s, axleback eBay exhaust. Pretty much all I can think of. So after I installed the franky, I had a nagging P0304 misfire. I changed plugs, changed wires, changed injectors, and finally I replaced the stock "snorkus" and it went away. However, I still have what feels like a misfire under low rpm loads, and serious stumbling when the engine is cold; like completely falls on it's face. As I was driving into work this morning I hooked up my OBD 2 reader and am using a primitive and basic scantool until my new software arrives, so bear with me on my figures. I wanted to see what my MAF was registering as flowing, as well as my calculated engine load. I'm thinking I may have "MAF flu", being that the car dies if I disconnect the MAF meaning that it does read off the MAF, but the voltage may be out of range causing it to think it's flowing more than it really is. During average cruising, 2800 rpm at about 70mph, I was registering 30 g/sec, but if I put my foot into the throttle more than a hair, it jumped to 55-60 g/sec. My average engine load was 27-32%, however it got up to 71% going up a steepish incline at sustained 70mph speed. My sneaking suspicion, is that my MAF is reading higher than my actual air intake, and therefore is causing my car to run rich; hindering performance and killing MPGs. Thoughts? My other thought is that my coil pack is bad/going bad. I have spark on all 4 leads (tested using spark tester and spare plug methods) but I haven't found any sort of comprehensive guide to testing resistance or continuity between plug leads. Unfortunately I don't have access to another MAF or coil pack to test either of those theories, so I'm hoping to isolate my concerns before I buy any parts. Any help is appreciated.

http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t75177-diy-power-steering-delete.html

That type of intake will act as a "hot air intake" which will lower hp but increase mpgs.

Fails: 10" 2hp metal chop saw: http://www.harborfreight.com/2-hp-14-inch-heavy-duty-cut-off-saw-91938.html Would not cut a square/straight line no matter how dilligently I squared and bolted it. Returned it and bought the 3 1/2 hp version open box for less money, way better saw. 40lb abrasive blaster: http://www.harborfreight.com/40-lb-pressurized-abrasive-blaster-68992.html Clogged, clogged, then clogged some more. Terrible idea to have a ball valve on and off with something abrasive. I have a very high end devilbiss line dryer and it still clogged up. Took me about 10 hours to blast a motorcycle frame. Vise: They don't sell it no mo. Anvil shattered when I was hammering a piece of steel; which caused the whole vise to fall apart. Since been gifted another 5" vise that has not failed, but was a different design. Motorcycle wheel cleaning doohickey: http://www.harborfreight.com/motorcycle-wheel-cleaning-stand-98800.html No way to effectively use it unless you have someone holding the bike upright while you clean the chain/wheel. It was somewhat sorta helpful for working on the front end of my old GS850 with a center stand, but not really. Decent: 3000lb compact aluminium racing jack: http://www.harborfreight.com/racing-jack-with-rapid-pump-compact-15-ton-aluminum-69252.html Works well for what it is. Doesn't lift very high and needs to be bled more frequently than I would like. However; it lifts quickly, has a huge pad, and is very mobile/light. 6000lb jack stands: http://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-heavy-duty-jack-stands-38846.html Nice and sturdy, however useless on pinch welds unless you buy the rubber pad; the "fork" is too deep and hits rocker before pinch weld. 5mil nitrile gloves: http://www.harborfreight.com/100-piece-medium-5-mil-powder-free-nitrile-gloves-68496.html Great for grunge, not so great for anything caustic. Brake clean will cause them to melt/break after a few seconds. I buy several boxes a month because they're cheap and effective. Macpherson strut compressor: http://www.harborfreight.com/macpherson-strut-spring-compressor-set-3980.html Feels cheap, takes awhile to crank down, but they work great and have been used about 10 times by now. The safety hooks don't inspire ANY confidence though. Wins: 2000lb shop crane: http://www.harborfreight.com/1-ton-capacity-foldable-shop-crane-93840.html Got mine for $90 with a coupon combination. Easy to assemble, works well, and you will not find even a used one cheaper. I have pulled a couple dozen engines with mine with 0 incident. Service cart: http://www.harborfreight.com/16-inch-x-30-inch-steel-service-cart-5107.html Basic, cheap, efficient. Get one if you don't already have a cart; it'll change your life. Goat skin welding gloves: http://www.harborfreight.com/14-inch-goatskin-welding-gloves-38197.html Been used in very close proximity to where I'm laying a bead of weld with no burn through. Can't really beat $9 for a nice pair of gloves.

My 1997 OBS. Just shy of 250k on the body. Engine: 1998 EJ25D block Mahle bearings NPR rings Balanced rods and pistons EJ22E heads; port matched Cometic hybrid HGS Delta 220 cams Grimmspeed Phenolic spacers NGK plugs and wires PageOne Customs grounding kit eBay oil catch can PageOne Customs UEL header Invidia replica exhaust Drivetrain: Exedy KSB04 clutch kit Uncle Scotty's cocktail fluids Group N pitchstop Kartboy shifter bushings PageOne Customs shortshifter Suspension: KYB Excel G struts 2004 STi springs Paranoid Fabrications 3/8" rear saggy butt spacers WRX rear sway bar WRX sedan rear lateral links* Wheels/Brakes: 2005 WRX 16x6.5 rims Accelera Alpha 205/60/16 tires 2002 WRX disc swap* WRX master cylinder and PV swap* Interior: 2003 WRX seats front and rear. Pioneer head unit and door speakers (2) OEM underseat subwoofers ProSport oil pressure gauge WRX Momo steering wheel* WRX pedal covers WRX map lights* (*= bought but not yet installed)

Exedy all the way. Well worth the money. I opted to get the KSB04 (2.5rs clutch) for my 2.2 and it's a nice balance between OEM and a stage 1.

I emailed the guy, and those were his corrected crank hp numbers. My bad.

Not so much a search and rescue as more of a humane adoption and rehab: Front end bashed in, reeking of pot and wet dog, oversized tires that were bald and rubbing the fenders, no stereo, headlights pointed to the ground, cracked windshield, blown suspension, and piston slap up the wazoo... To this: Frankenmotor, WRX/STi suspension, WRX interior, WRX rims, UEL to Invidia knockoff exhaust, factory Yakima rack, new headlights/fogs/corners, LED lighting, WRX underseat sub, and plenty more.