cal_look_zero

Seems very low by comparison to the one I modeled mine after; 176 awhp 181awtq

It's going to be a heat triggered relay/thermostat, much like a flasher. You can probably find a way to circumnavigate the thermostat to have them on at all times. Heated seat systems are a very basic circuit (I used to have to replace them all the time in VWs)

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/104-gen-4-2010-present/39656-2012-ob-seat-heater-stops-working-2.html

For the gaskets, your best bet is to buy the Cometic gaskets made specifically for the frankenmotor. Cometic P/N: H1631SPK040S

Top up the coolant and run the car (from cool) with the rad cap off. See if you're actually getting coolant circulation or not. Sounds like either poor/no flow, or a blockage somewhere.

You can get DW WRX fuel pumps for under $100 shipped, and the pump itself is smaller then a can of soda... Or is the H6 pump a whole different mongrel?

Why would you want non interference? So long as you don't snap a timing belt, there's nothing wrong with an interference design; and they typically make more power as a result of better CRs.

Just pull the fans. 95 should be 2 bolts on top for each one, and the connector at the bottom.

I would check the tophat mounting nut for the strut.

Sounds like my OBS... minus the D/R Why would you put D/R in a streetcar?

I have 4 of them in working order from an 02 WRX if anyone can verify the cross fitment I call them door jamb switches.

I know when I worked at a Subaru dealership, the "factory" add ons were installed at the dealership by the ASE Master techs. Everything from moldings to short shifts and exhausts.

I know you say you got all of them, but did you get the 12mm under the rear main seal and the 10mm in the oil pan area?

I have the same relay chatter on and off in my 97 OBS. Seems to be related to my clutch switch usually; happens if I don't mash the clutch to start the car. But yes, it's an ignition relay.

Happens all the time, at the worst possible time. I'm down to 30 minutes to change one out lol.

Ultra grey.

^This. The extra length of the strut causes everything to not want to line up. Unbolting the sway bar is pretty much necessary, and it will be fun to get lined back up as well...

I changed out my whole RSB for one from a WRX. Just jacked up the rear and put stands under the pinch welds on the body. Unbolted the 2 clamps holding the bar to the body, and the whole thing swings out. There's not much (if any) tension on the bar when the wheels are off the ground.

18" of 1/4" round bar from a steel shop. Pull the outer (accessible) retaining clips and insert the rod from the backside. Tap it out with a hammer. Very easy.

Yes I do lol. Looking into PP6 and dyno tune through Pre.

Calculated it at about 11.2:1 given the shaved heads, thin HG, and displacement.

I could, but running a PP6 will allow me to have Pre run it on the dyno and tune it perfectly as opposed to the "hotdog into the air" method of mapping by butt dyno/engine load/feel. It's a ways down the line for me.

EJ25D block, EJ22E SP heads, .040 MLS head gasket. I'm right about 11k miles and compression tests about a week ago put all 4 at 240psi.

I'm running NPRs in my franky. 240psi on all 4 cylinders... I'd say they're decent.

I'm looking into either a PerfectPower6 or MegaSquirt so I can actually tune my engine. I think it's modified too heavily for the stock ECU to be able to fuel it properly. The car pulls hardest right at 4k rpm; like a turbo kicking in. Definitely something I want to mitigate and get a more fluid powerband.