cal_look_zero

You shouldn't need a breaker bar. They're just 12 or 14mm nut and through bolt. I'd say jack the car up and soak the threads and nuts with PB blaster so it can soak in for a day or 2.

Gotcha. I've been on the hunt for a set of genuine cast iron rings, but haven't ever found any aside from a custom set that would be $$$. The general market ones are pretty much all the same from what I've seen. Thanks.

Where the hell do you find cast rings for these engines? I have yet to find anything non chro-mo.

Slow down tiger. Chances are if someone "gave" you a DOHC 25, you need to pull the oil pan and witness the phenomenon known as "The silver milkshake". 25Ds have a nasty habit of eating rod bearings. Not that it's the end of the world, but it's more trouble than it's worth. Ask me how I know... I'm in the process of sourcing an EJ257 (STi) engine to replace the 25D that I salvaged for my frankie. It's not that it's a bad engine by any means. But I have experienced my fuel cut at 6200rpm, and I doubt those internals will last me long at that rate... The only thing the heads are good for is either selling, reusing on the 25, or slapping onto a 22 and turboing it.

You mean these guys: Those are your sway bar end links. Better just to replace those, no sense in monkeying with the bushings. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-SUBARU-REAR-SWAY-BAR-STABILIZER-END-LINK-SET-/120657669782?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1999%7CMake%3ASubaru%7CModel%3ALegacy&hash=item1c17c1ee96&vxp=mtr

They can be replaced moderately easily. If you want a really solid ride, you can go with Group N bushings, or just replace with OEM. http://rallispec.com/prod_chart_stibush2.htm

I just bought one in similar condition... for $800

3&4 misfire is commonly attributed to the camshaft sensor.

Go buy the green o rings at an auto parts store. They hold up to drastic temperature changes better. I bought a kit for $5 and had my a/c pulled down and recharged for $45. Do all of the o rings. Usually the ones right there are the dryer fail. Replace the drier while you're at it too.

Easy way to test your ac circuit is to jump the pressure switch plug with a paperclip. If the clutch engages, you have low pressure in the ac system and need to find and repair the leak, and get the system recharged. Pull the plug off the dryer (Cylinder mounted to the passenger strut tower) And jump the plug. If the clutch engages when you do that, it's an easy fix. (See above)

Gotta unbolt it and compress it in a vice or c clamp. Put an allen key or something to hold it in place, install everything, and pull the key to release the tension.

Snorkus

Came in to post this exact sentiment.

I had a similar issue and it was the cable for the cruise control being a little too tight. Check both cables before you get too crazy trying to fix everything else.

Yeah, the snorkus is a crucial part of the MAF system. MAP cars can get away with an aftermarket intake, but without a tune, MAF based cars run like crap without the snorkus. My car came without one, and fell on it's face after I built my frankenmotor. Slapped a snorkus on and it pulls hard through every gear above 2k rpm.

I have a Frankenmotor. EJ25D block, single port 22E heads, Delta cams, Grimmspeed phenolic spacers, 300cc DW injectors, port matched heads, Cometic "hybrid" head gaskets shaved .010 under, 10mm oil pump with 2 shims, 2" header, and some other stuff. Another build similar to mine put down about 175 WHP, and he was a little lower compression than me. Basically a brand new engine. Ended up with all new internals, new valves/springs/retainers, etc. About 7000 miles in now and I average 22mpg on the hilly freeway/in town, 26mpg on flat freeway, and have yet to have anything with less than 8 cylinders or a turbo beat me. #1 rule: Don't screw with your intake.

You know, the stance kids pay excessive amounts of money for that ride height and camber!

Sounds like the rear shifter bushing. That little "peg" at the far right of the picture goes into a bushing bolted to the tunnel. Usually side to side play is a result of the "fork" at the left having worn bushings. If you end up needing to replace that, I highly recommend a kartboy shifter bushing.

The bushings are a bit of a pain to get to, but nothing crazy. You can access them from under the car. I personally recommend spending the extra pennies and going with kartboy bushings. $65 a set, but it will feel as crisp as a new STi.

The rack specifies no more than 100lb evenly distributed. I've had 2 sheets of 3/4" ply and a dozen 2x4s on the roof before; nearly 150lbs without issue.

How much? Sounds like a good solid DD.

^^^ What he said. Before: After Buddy of mine did it to the carpet in his 97 Legacy. Think he went with 3 bags of Rit, but you really can't have too much overkill; and it's cheap.

That said, I've had 2 complete EJ engines in the back of my Impreza... without folding down the back seats.

The 2.2l engine was offered in the lower trim models of Legacy after 96, but I personally see no major difference in the cars themselves. At least nothing that couldn't be fixed with a few parts change outs.

Easy way to test if the solenoid is going out is to have someone try and crank it while you smack the starter with the butt of a ratchet or similar.