poolskaterpt

Weapon R makes a short ram intake that doesn't throw a CEL You could bolt on 1.8 heads no problem, no change in compression, which have the dual port head to allow the moutning of a Borla Header unit which run about 120$ Cams would be an option. To turbo the same block you could use the 2.5 heads with the dual port making the engine approx 2.35L with slight drop in compression allowing you to run approx 5-6lbs boost safely into the same block. Just run the 1.8T trubo components, or 2.2T or 2.0T turbo components just dial the boost down to 5-6lbs. May need to run independent engine management.

that new/uncooked motor with the old cooling system may not make that 30 days mark !!! Check that old cooling system to prevent cooking this next one!

Thanks fairtax, that's exactly what I was thinking was coming my way too. no idea the build date, 6th VIN digit is a "4", keep on getting asked that one by parts suppliers. Part # i'm looking for is Subaru part # 38913AA100 From what I can gather I can grab one out of any 02-14 WRX 5 speed. Just want to get this right so my OBS can rip its way up the mountain this weekend and gets my girls and I snowboarding. Thanks man.

WOW, $737.50 from the stealership Found one from an 09 WRX (stage 2 5MT), will that work for this application? It's my understanding the center diff is the same for all the stage 2 5MT and the ratio should be no different in the center diff even though the tranny gear ratios are different.?.? Correct me if I'm wrong please. If above is not correct- Compatible models? (link, chart etc?)

Hey Fairtax, what kind of mechanical damage to other components am I looking at if I drive it until if fails completely? I have some thoughts on the potential consequences but want to hear what you say and see how they match up. This is my first Subie so the AWD system is a new animal for me but I wrench on lots of stuff so I'm not a hack by any means. Just trying to reason my way through this thing to make sense of it.

Thanks Fairtax, was hoping you'd chime in. Yeah that's what I thought a torque bid would feel like: like turning a 4WD with a Locke diff on pavement. I've had the tail section off this tranny before when I had a center diff support bearing fail/explode in there. Should be pretty simple to swap. Any tips on OEM vs after market for replacement?

Not trying to be lazy but when I searched "torque bind" I found a bunch of threads about people's problems that were not torque bind.

Getting a cyclic clunk at parking lot speeds while turning, happens in both directions and only once warmed up/ been driving for at least 10 miles at highway speeds. EJ22 with 5MT Tranny oil is fresh, fresh new CVs (was doing this before CVs changed), front end clear of interference points, u-joints are good. Thinking possibly torque bind? - what are the torque bind symptoms? - does torque bind only occur in autos? Not being too lazy to search, just not finding info specific to this application

In that case, I swear by those tires!!! Hahaha

Oh, for a little extra pep in your step- weapon R makes a short ram intake for your car which will accept the stock MAF and no check engine light

I have an outback sport with the 2.2L and cannot say enough good things about it. It is my first subie and I'll continue to drive these cars for many years to come. I'm a convert. Do the brakes, plugs/wires, change all fluids and that things should run forever. I'm not 100% on this but I believe that 2.2L is a non interference engine- anybody else step in here- so check that way you know whether or not to do the timing belt and water pump while you're at it. If non-interference then no top end destruction if the by break

I have an outback sport with the 2.2L and cannot say enough good things about it. It is my first subie and I'll continue to drive these cars for many years to come. I'm a convert. Do the brakes, plugs/wires, change all fluids and that things should run forever. I'm not 100% on this but I believe that 2.2L is a non interference engine- anybody else step in here- so check that way you know whether or not to do the timing belt and water pump while you're at it. If non-interference then no top end destruction if the by break

If you can get 60$ off the Cooper CS4s get them, I've got a set with 18k and 2 winters on them and they do great- tread life looks great, wear is even, and they Even look fairly newish despite some serious abuse. Hankook as mentioned before are solid but wear a little faster, Of those three I'd take the kumho. But seeing as this isn't a best tire thread... Get the coopers 'cause they are the best! 'Merica, F$&k YEAH!!!

Just want to say thanks for the help and replies, it's much Ppreciated

I know I can get the backlash set with the dial indicator, my concern is the preload on the driver side being excessive and that is why reinstalling the passenger side for backlash to the previous mark has resulted in binding. Risk to pinion or ring gear bearings?