poolskaterpt
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Everything posted by poolskaterpt
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ej22 Performance Upgrades
poolskaterpt replied to muddblood's topic in NA Fuel Injection Engine Tech
Weapon R makes a short ram intake that doesn't throw a CEL You could bolt on 1.8 heads no problem, no change in compression, which have the dual port head to allow the moutning of a Borla Header unit which run about 120$ Cams would be an option. To turbo the same block you could use the 2.5 heads with the dual port making the engine approx 2.35L with slight drop in compression allowing you to run approx 5-6lbs boost safely into the same block. Just run the 1.8T trubo components, or 2.2T or 2.0T turbo components just dial the boost down to 5-6lbs. May need to run independent engine management. -
that new/uncooked motor with the old cooling system may not make that 30 days mark !!! Check that old cooling system to prevent cooking this next one!
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Thanks fairtax, that's exactly what I was thinking was coming my way too. no idea the build date, 6th VIN digit is a "4", keep on getting asked that one by parts suppliers. Part # i'm looking for is Subaru part # 38913AA100 From what I can gather I can grab one out of any 02-14 WRX 5 speed. Just want to get this right so my OBS can rip its way up the mountain this weekend and gets my girls and I snowboarding. Thanks man.
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WOW, $737.50 from the stealership Found one from an 09 WRX (stage 2 5MT), will that work for this application? It's my understanding the center diff is the same for all the stage 2 5MT and the ratio should be no different in the center diff even though the tranny gear ratios are different.?.? Correct me if I'm wrong please. If above is not correct- Compatible models? (link, chart etc?)
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Hey Fairtax, what kind of mechanical damage to other components am I looking at if I drive it until if fails completely? I have some thoughts on the potential consequences but want to hear what you say and see how they match up. This is my first Subie so the AWD system is a new animal for me but I wrench on lots of stuff so I'm not a hack by any means. Just trying to reason my way through this thing to make sense of it.
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Thanks Fairtax, was hoping you'd chime in. Yeah that's what I thought a torque bid would feel like: like turning a 4WD with a Locke diff on pavement. I've had the tail section off this tranny before when I had a center diff support bearing fail/explode in there. Should be pretty simple to swap. Any tips on OEM vs after market for replacement?
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Not trying to be lazy but when I searched "torque bind" I found a bunch of threads about people's problems that were not torque bind.
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Getting a cyclic clunk at parking lot speeds while turning, happens in both directions and only once warmed up/ been driving for at least 10 miles at highway speeds. EJ22 with 5MT Tranny oil is fresh, fresh new CVs (was doing this before CVs changed), front end clear of interference points, u-joints are good. Thinking possibly torque bind? - what are the torque bind symptoms? - does torque bind only occur in autos? Not being too lazy to search, just not finding info specific to this application
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Tires
poolskaterpt replied to nipper's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
In that case, I swear by those tires!!! Hahaha -
Oh, for a little extra pep in your step- weapon R makes a short ram intake for your car which will accept the stock MAF and no check engine light
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I have an outback sport with the 2.2L and cannot say enough good things about it. It is my first subie and I'll continue to drive these cars for many years to come. I'm a convert. Do the brakes, plugs/wires, change all fluids and that things should run forever. I'm not 100% on this but I believe that 2.2L is a non interference engine- anybody else step in here- so check that way you know whether or not to do the timing belt and water pump while you're at it. If non-interference then no top end destruction if the by break
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I have an outback sport with the 2.2L and cannot say enough good things about it. It is my first subie and I'll continue to drive these cars for many years to come. I'm a convert. Do the brakes, plugs/wires, change all fluids and that things should run forever. I'm not 100% on this but I believe that 2.2L is a non interference engine- anybody else step in here- so check that way you know whether or not to do the timing belt and water pump while you're at it. If non-interference then no top end destruction if the by break
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Tires
poolskaterpt replied to nipper's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
If you can get 60$ off the Cooper CS4s get them, I've got a set with 18k and 2 winters on them and they do great- tread life looks great, wear is even, and they Even look fairly newish despite some serious abuse. Hankook as mentioned before are solid but wear a little faster, Of those three I'd take the kumho. But seeing as this isn't a best tire thread... Get the coopers 'cause they are the best! 'Merica, F$&k YEAH!!! -
Just want to say thanks for the help and replies, it's much Ppreciated
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I know I can get the backlash set with the dial indicator, my concern is the preload on the driver side being excessive and that is why reinstalling the passenger side for backlash to the previous mark has resulted in binding. Risk to pinion or ring gear bearings?
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Fairtax, That thing is clean as a whistle. Degreaser with wire brush prior to full pressure washing... It's really clean. I just don't think the counting the turns out method was quite accurate enough, one tooth's worth of rotation spans the entire adjustment tolerance range for the backlash. I'm going to pull the tranny, just need to know how much the dang "weighted special tool" that gets placed on the passenger side weighs. Don't want to buy the dang tool
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So I yanked one side at a time with meticulous indexing, changed the seals but now that the retainer plates are back in the shafts just do not turn quite right. Get a cyclic binding/increase resistance then free spinning with each revolution. Looking at pulling the tranny out to set the preload and backlash- does anyone know the mass/weight of special tool weight that gets placed on the passenger side when servicing according to the manual?
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Shesaid, I was on basic searching last night and came across tons of build threads. One in particular caught my eye involving swapping 2.5L dual port heads onto the 2.2L making the EJ22 approx 2.35L and allowing the bolt on of the WRX exhaust system including turbo unit with top mounted intercooler. No harness swap required and posters said they did not have to swap engine management systems due to slight decrease in compression with the 2.5 heads allowing up to 6lbs boost with no worries. Your thoughts?
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She said, Yeah that's my plan is to grab the full long block, harness etc off of USDM smashed WRX. So will the harness still pose quite a challenge or were you thinking of JDM to US splice being such a pain?
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Thanks "shesaid", I live in Cali so yeah i have to pass emissions, which really shouldn't be too much of an issue if I grab the engine out of another car that passed here in cali- so long as it doesn't throw a CEL the levels will be within state spec. "step one- learn what these designations mean: EJ20G, EJ20R, EJ20H, EJ20K, EJ205, EJ207" - know of a good resource to find spec info on these? I just ran a search but only came across posts that were tagged because of problems rather than an engine spec resource. The brakes for sure will get grabbed. I'm not going to be building a crazy tuned car by any means, just hate the lack of punch on the uphills going snowboarding or having to pass multiple slow trucks on the highways out here. Needs a little more rump roast when I hit the gas!
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Hey guys, I am thinking about taking on an EJ22 to EJ20T heart transplant for my 99 OBS, had a few questions: MY OBS has the 5 speed MT 1) what years of WRX with EJ20T should I look for? 2) What all components do I need to take from other car: brakes, ECM, harness, exhaust, etc (not looking to change dash)? 3) what should I absolutely avoid in the process? (tips/tricks) 4) Should I keep my "glas trans" or should I grab the WRX tranny and rear end to match the gears too? Thanks everyone. this is a killer forum. Cheers.
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My Manual seals are pressed in from the inside. **** DO ONE SIDE AT A TIME- DO NOT TAKE BOTH SIDES OUT AT ONCE IF YOU ARE PLANNING TO DO THIS WITHOUT REMOVING THE TRANNY***** Mark the retainer plates and tap on them with a wooden dowel to break them free and then count the turns out, making sure that once they are loose enough to loosen by hand that you apply a pulling force so you can feel exactly where the threads are freed up. The seals provide a little friction so it won't be really sloppy when the very fine threads have disengaged. Mark the point where the threads let go so you know where to start counting your turns back in. This is important as the plates set the preload on driver and backlash on passenger. That is why you do not pull both sides out simultaneously unless you are removing the entire tranny to use the special tool and the required weight. This method assumes the preload and backlash were dialed in prior to removal. I just went through this, be meticulous.
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Oh wow, thanks Fairtax. I've never seen a seal with that orientation be pressed from the inside. I'm used to wrenching most on volvos and older Detroit born vehicles
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Try adjusting the clutch to your liking for release point. Make sure it is fully disengaging and re-engaging to allow for smooth shift. The MT really hates the synthetic fluids, I use Lucas oil 75/90 non synthetic and it cleared up the harsh downshift into second and first that was note able when I first for my 99 Outback Sport as the kid I got it from was running synthetic with limited skip additives. You do not need an oil with limited slip additives as the center diff is a sealed unit. Just straight gear oil GL-5 grade is the way to go
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The side plates sets the preload and backlash on the front diff so they are important. I'm going to mark them well an count the turns out to be able to reset them. Pulling the seal straight out would be next to impossible as the drive splines prevent getting purchase on a rear surface to pull it. Thanks Fairtax and Tirod
