poolskaterpt

OK, here goes. Have a bad driver side front diff oil seal. Doing the CVs while I'm at it. Background- had a center diff bearing fail (shatter) 20K ago, split the tranny, found the bearing fragments and replaced no problem (also found some other old fragments of hardened metal from something else which failed and was repaired prior to my owning it). Kept the old seals and slid the halves back over the diff seals. Did not reset the backlash with the differential side retainers when it went back together (pops reassembled while I was at work, he couldn't help himself). Must I pull the trans to do this job like the manual calls out, or can I simply pull the side retainer, swap the seal & O-ring and reinstall the side retainer to the same exact point (indexing its original position/turns)? If I must pull the trans its all good, have all the necessary tools/equipment.

It doesn't burn oil, doesn't have the old persistent detonation with the key off cylinder deposits. If the higher octane fuel cleared it up, the knock sensor would have to be functioning properly and the octane increase wouldn't have improved it; or am i committing improper subaru medicine here? I'll check the sensor, thanks for the help everyone. Now onto changing the front differential oil seal that is leaking and the CVs while I'm at it

Ran 91 octane through with bottle of techron and cleared it up. This started recently completely independent of intake installation so the intake is non-factor. Knock sensor huh? Why would a knock sensor prevent acceleration? I'm not showing that I'm running lean. Thought that was only a component on the turbo cars. Any way to test the knock sensor instead of just throwing parts at the car?

Have my 99 OBS with EJ22, 120K on engine, 173k on chassis, Weapon R Dragon Short ram Intake (no CEL over rides needed) new timing belt, plugs & Wires. I've owned it since 140K and done some restorative maintenance on the powertrain (tranny bearing, center diff, CVs, U-joints, back to stock exhaust setup) When moderately accelerating in any gear from low RPM to high RPM ( 1200- 3200) it hesitates/hiccups until 3200/3400 when it cleans up and picks up steam solidly. Damn near like hitting a powerband on your 2stroke dirtbike! like when a boggy turbo finally overcomes lag and boost kicks in (mind you this thing is not turboed!). ALso it is critical to note I am not changing the throttle position during acceleration, just depressing the pedal to mid throttle and waiting for it to tach up so it will stop hiccuping and get my butt down the road. No DTCs according to the Innova, timing is on according to spec. If I drive miss daisy it will accelerate smoothly up through the tach range. Hypotheses so far: 1) clogged fuel filter 2) fuel pump working on taking a crap 3) clogged injectors 4) gremlins, drunken gremlins

Lucas 75-90 non-synthetic. Smooth shifts even at low speed into 1st

Hey everyone, Just picked up my first soobie and am looking to build it a little bit; nothing crazy just want to take advantage of the 2.2's potential. I'm looking for a good header to mate a custom exhaust to. I'm pretty sure the '99 is a single port head (correct me if I'm wrong). Car's current status: 5MT with new Exedy clutch going in this weekend. Weapon R Dragon Intake en route Will be putting in short shift soon as well. Also, if anyone knows what programmers/engine management systems are compatible that would be great to know too. Thanks y'all:drunk:

That noise is the throwout/clutch release bearing. I wouldn't drive on a squeaky one for too long as they can seize when they get hot (city driving) and the race can possibly shatterzzzand then you cannot engage the clutch (pull it away from flywheel) and it can cost you a towing fee equal to the cost of replacement clutch.

I've done this same thing on an '87 Volvo 240 with aluminum heads; I blew the plug clean out of the head and it sounded like a baja VW Just used a tap with some hi temp lithium grease between the teeth rows and then implanted a healey coil into the head. While pressurizing the cylinder as described above with intake valve open via compressed air through the manifold with no shaving upon inspection with boroscope after the procedure. The thing held solid for 89K after the minor surgery:popcorn:

For future smog strugglers whose exhaust system is intact (unlike above scenario): -Bosch 2+ plugs - Make sure to adjust to proper idle tach. -stop by the local small airport and run a 50/50 aviation fuel and E85 mix - Run it down the highway at higher RPM than usual 4500 or so to get the CATs nice and warmed up. - Disconnect PCVs and close manifold ports to prevent stalling. - Pull one of the air filters (preferably the one closest to manifold) on a 2.2L This will help your engine burn the fuel more completely and decrease the HC level (hydrocarbon) which indicates unburned fuel, or heavy crankcase gases being vented into the intake. WORKS 60% of the time, EVERY TIME!!!