upnorthguy

Yakima Mighty Mount 3V. http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=43728 I wish Yakima did a better job of keeping some of the old information out there for fit issues. Yakima is good about providing help if you call/chat with them, which would be a good thing to do in this case to confirm that the 3V works for your '94. I should have saved some of those old Yakima/Thule fit books from my days at REI. There is a dealer lookup tool online (http://fitlookup.yakima.com/) that produces the following info Subaru Legacy Wagon 1990-1994 Fit for Factory Crossbars Weight Limit: 0lbs Towers Tower MightyMount 3V Snow Mounts PowderHound (w/locks) Big PowderHound (w/locks) FatCat 4 FatCat 6 WB300: Snow Mount Ski/Snowboard Carrier Notes 168DISCONTINUED MIGHTYMOUNT: Yakima no longer stocks or accepts orders on the MightyMounts for this vehicle. Check with your dealer or online retailer. Plenty of these on eBay.

There is a good EJ22 timing belt kit on ebay for $136 with Aisin water pump by mizumoauto http://www.ebay.com/itm/260925109309?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Apparently I had a cheap allen key when I was working on my 95 a month or two ago, as I put it in the hole in the side of the bell housing and started to try to loosen the crank bolt and heard a little snap and clink clink..broke off the end of the allen and it fell to bottom of the bell housing. I've switched to the largest phillips screwdriver I can fit into that hole. , I did the breaker bar starter bump method the first time to loosen, but I agree with your thought that it makes me nervous. Using the bell housing hole is easy and rock solid (provided you don't use a cheap allen key!) This isn't the photo that grossgary seems to always have handy, but Beergarage has a decent shot (this shows a clutch flywheel instead of the flex plate in an auto) It takes a little more fishing when the engine is in the car as there are hoses and things making it a tighter fit compared to the photo, but still plenty of room on the passenger side. You can stand next to the passenger front wheel and spin the engine with your right hand on a socket wrench on the crank bolt and gently push in on the screwdriver to feel for the hole to come around as you turn the engine.

No need to scour eBay for a FSM. Electronic copies are available online: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/ or http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/

Usually it is Grossgary beating the OEM gasket, but we all learn eventually! Those paper gaskets are horrible Surprisingly, the gasket at the dealer is cheaper than the crappy one from a parts store (in this case). I used some ultra grey on one side of the gasket to hold it to the water pump when placing it.

I'm not sure about the tugging, but the clicking as you go around corners is definitely your CV joints making noise. They can drive like that for quite a while (at least adding grease and a new boot can help prevent further damage). One of my earlier wagons had a bad CV on each side and I drove it like that for 100k. Most people either go for a decent junkyard replacement or a rebuilt OEM axle as the non-OEM replacements are prone to noise/vibration/etc. Top pic is the rack and pinion bellows (boot) just as you guessed. I just replaced both of mine as they were torn in about three places per side. Before you do anything, soak with PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench or some other pentrating oil for a few days. Be sure to count the number of threads showing on the inner tie rod above the jam nut (in the middle of your #2 pic) and write this down (for each side) so you replicate it when reinstalling everything and keep your alignment! You can hold the outer tie rod (a big crescent wrench works nicely) undo the jam nut on the tie rod end , hold the tie rod and then spin out the inner tie rod (no need to undo/pop the outer tie rod where it attaches to the knuckle). My jam nut was easy to undo, but I had a hard time getting the inner tie rod to move out of the outer tie rod. I ended up using a pipe wrench on the inner tie rod and that worked well. Remove old bellows, clean up the ball on the inner tie rod, regrease with fresh stuff, slide new boot on (*including the small metal clip!!**) and then reattach the inner tie rod to the outer tie rod. Most replacement boots come with a plastic zip tie to secure the large end. Some come with a smaller zip for the small end, but most people reuse the metal clip (like a hose clamp) on the small side. A decent video can be found here: and Beer Garage has a nice write up with pics here http://beergarage.com/SubyRackBoot.aspx I got a pair off eBay for $15 (free shipping) since I'm rolling in a Craigslist special '95 and even a couple of years is good enough for me. I see that same seller has them for $13.50 right now...deal! http://www.ebay.com/itm/Set-of-2-Power-Steering-Rack-and-Pinion-Bellow-Boots-Subaru-BT102-/161191226929?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2587beee31

Sounds like the resistor pack (if you search this forum, there are a few discussions about it) and it sounds like it is likely near the blower motor behind the glove box. I've replaced those a few Dodge vehicles for the same issue. Excellent item to get from the salvage yard if you can snag one. I think I did buy one at a parts store and it was fairly reasonable (just under $20). I don't know those Imprezas as well, but I took a guess at the opposedforces diagrams and came up with this (check to see if it is right)...looks like part #20 http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/us_g10/type_60/climate/heater_system/illustration_2/ If that is the correct part (72024AA000) then a quick search via Google turns up prices from about $35-$75. Maybe someone around the forum has one they will sell you, depending on the part that fits your car.

Here are some other discussions on tail light problems with suggestions for chasing it down: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/107346-tail-lights-out-but-interior-on/?hl=%2Btail+%2Blight+%2Bshort&do=findComment&comment=902227 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/141734-fuserelaytail-lightslicense-plate-lights-problem/?hl=%2Bparking+%2Blights There are so many experienced people here...many times there is already a discussion saved on a topic, which makes it worth running a few searches. Good luck!

His profile says '98 Legacy wagon. FSM (Factory Service Manual) discussion/links are in this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/143474-fsms/

A favorite around here is www.car-part.com. See what is near you for parts and then find a local independent shop that will install the rear differential for you (or get dirty and try it yourself if you are inclined and have a garage!).

Engines are pretty cheap for your car. www.car-part.com is a great search tool to see what salvage yards near you have in stock. A search for a '90 Legacy using a Las Vegas zip comes up with quite a few engines, priced from $200-580 and a handful that you need to call on the price. Any skills to try and install yourself? Otherwise, add in the labor for install and you could be near the $950 you are looking at spending for the Loyale.

There is a bunch of discussion on this same topic in another recent thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/143451-is-my-alternator-going-bad/?hl=alternator including info about a cheap rebuilt alternator ($80) available from the dealer for this vintage of Legacy. Shouldn't need a hoist/remove the engine for the oil pan gasket. Ultra grey RTV is what most people use and it can be done with the engine still in the car. Check out the factory service manual you can find online here at http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/ Here is a video that a board member (Miles Fox) did on the oil pan (he uses a cork gasket plus ultra grey RTV) but he does include some verbal instruction about how it can be done from under the car.

Someone on Craigslist in Sterling, VA (just west of DC) has had an Outback bumper cover like that listed for the past few weeks. $50. Not sure how much shipping would be. Outback bumpers like that for '96 to '98 will fit for sure. I think '99 will as well, but I'm not totally sure. http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/pts/4247109001.html

I don't know any standard hair dryer that will burn a person. If hair dryers got that hot every woman with long hair would be in trouble! If you are talking about one of those heat guns that looks similar to a hair dryer, that is a different story- those will do some damage (to your head an the hose). I've done some excellent work with a hair dryer and frozen washer fluid lines. The only thing melting was the water in the washer fluid.

Something to keep in mind/investigate: most states require that the only lights on the rear of a car be red in color when in operation (except for reverse lights, of course, which turn off when you are done reversing).

Are you looking for new or open to used (salvage)? There is a pick and pull in VA Beach that you could check out: http://www.picknpull.com/locations.aspx?View=Detail&ID=75 100 Sykes Avenue Virginia Beach, VA 23454 US Phone 1: 757-417-0380 Phone 2: N/A Fax: N/A Hours: Mon-Fri 9:00 am - 5:00 pm Sat-Sun 8:00 am - 5:00 pm

I applied the Subaru Radio Shack bulb wisdom to my 2001 Civic. The recirc, A/C, rear defrost buttons are lit up with little base bulbs just like the Legacy. Same deal, the dealer charges a crazy amount for the replacement (which includes a new plastic base). Another $1.99 for a 2-pack from Radio Shack, a few screws and my rear defrost button lights up again. When searching for Honda threads on this with pictures on how to get at the bulbs, I was surprised that no one in any of the forums I came across mentioned using the Radio Shack bulb. Those Honda guys all go for the OEM replacement I guess!

Are you using a new Subaru OEM water pump gasket (metal)? If not, the third-party gaskets sold at auto parts stores really suck. I tried one of those papery monsters on a whim while waiting for other parts and it absolutely did not work. Once I got my OEM gasket from a dealer, I used some very fine sandpaper and sanded the water pump and the block where the pump sits. This solved my leak.

Like Miles Fox said, he was able to get a good grip on that cam because his rear timing cover is not in place (and because the engine it out of the car). If yours is still in the car, as I suspect it is, it is harder to get a good grip on that cam gear. My right hand recently took some abuse when I was trying to line up that cam and it snapped over a couple of times as I tried to get it to balance with the timing dot up top. That inner timing cover has a nice corner on it that kept gouging my hand. I finally got pissed smart and put a leather glove on while I wrestled it into place.

I'm finding a decent number of independent shops that look to enjoy working on scoobies: http://www.waspautomotive.com/ (some decent Yelp reviews) http://www.nealsgarage.com/manufacturers/import/subara-car-repair/ http://www.turbotime.us/ (Cary) http://www.importperformance-nc.com/Subaru_Service,_Subaru_repair,_Subaru_machanic.html http://www.jjimport.com/import-auto-repair-raleigh/subaru.php http://importmotorwerks.com/subaru/ You have nice low miles for that vintage...it should keep running for another 100k (unless it spent too much time in the 507 salt).

Trolls like that are usually hit and runs. He'll never reply (but we will keep replying...!).

I don't know about keeping "a" bottle of Heet in the car...keep a pile in your car when it is that cold! In MN, I would put in one bottle when I filled up the tank. The product info says each bottle (12 oz) is good for up to 20 gallons of gas. http://www.goldeagle.com/brands/heet/faq.aspx

Mine creeps off hot just a little bit (less than one cm). Maybe you can grab onto the cable/sheath down in the passenger foot area (just under the glove box, look for the white plastic triangular piece with the cable attachment near the center console) and give it a wiggle/pull to make sure it is seated and see if that helps reduce the cold direction creep. That E clip at the control is the biggest pain in the rump roast. I had my unit out to replace the bulbs and wish I would have come across some posts sooner steering away from undoing that clip. Getting it back in took triple the time it took to remove the whole thing and clean the cup holder and change the bulbs. Removing the cable in the passenger foot area is sooo much easier (no E clip)!

I don't know your level of wrenching, but if you have any mechanical aptitude, you could do a lot of those things yourself and cut that cost way down: -The timing belt on that car is pretty easy and you can get a t-belt kit for that (includes water pump, pulleys and cam seals, tensioner) for about $216 on ebay. -You can get a new half shaft for about $75, but most people here prefer to try and get an OEM half shaft from a salvage yard. -OEM thermostat is about $25, gasket is another couple of bucks. Two bolts and some new coolant and that is done (best to do this when doing the timing belt because the extra room gained with the radiator out is very helpful) -I haven't replaced a Subaru steering rack, when I've done one on a Civic and it took some time, but was doable (I'm a driveway kind of guy working of jack stands in the cul-de-sac!). Again, most here prefer to get an OEM rack from a salvage yard car rather than one from a parts store. $2,900 is a lot of money to spend on a car worth a few thousand...

For crank seals on the EJ22, watch this excellent video that Miles Fox put together: