upnorthguy

Sure, I will let you know. Could be in two weeks if I get time before the holidays. Otherwise in January.

I've had speedo noise like that in the winter when I lived in Minnesota.

I'm in a similar situation: picked up a Craigslist special '95 LS wagon with the EJ22 and the owners had been told the HG were bad. I've replaced the water pump and gasket (absolutely only use one from the dealer (only $4 in person) as the ones sold at Autozone et al totally suck!) and so far no leaks. I have not done a bunch of highway driving yet, but around town (up to 45-50 mph) everything is looking good with regards to coolant. (Oil leaks are another story that I have yet to address). There is some discussion about this in another thread that I started right after I got my wagon about how to test for HG leaks: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/141009-shop-for-machining-22-heads-in-northern-virginia/?hl=%2Bmachine+%2Bshop

By hardware I assume you mean the car and software you mean the scan tool, right? It looks like the scan tool can read all kinds of input data. That leaves the problem of what data a '96 is outputting. I'm fairly certain it is a limitation of the vehicle, and therefore a "hardware" problem with the car. I think I've seen another post on this either here or one of the other message boards.

That or find someone that is going to a salvage yard that can scavenge for you. I'll be headed to my local haunt in the next couple of weeks and could look for you. The parts shouldn't be too heavy, but that dash piece could be a little bulky for shipping. Is the dash piece you need this one: (from this stereo replacement link http://www.butkus.org/subaru/outback_stereo/outback_stereo.htm)

I'm sure the gurus here will want specific codes for better troubleshooting.

Here is a photo of the spring guard http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/443/624g.jpg/

I think that a friends transaction can work when you know the car as well as it sounds like you do and know what work needs to be done. I bought my '87 GL wagon from a buddy for $500 and it was one of the best used cars I've had. I think the $750ish number sounds reasonable.

There has been some discussion about this in another recent thread here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/141833-questions-on-lifting-my-95-legacy-sedan/?hl=lifting

I looked for recalls when I bought my '95 Legacy wagon and saw this. I have the spring guards mentioned in the remedy so I know my springs were replaced by the dealer at some point by one of the previous owners. Recall Date: JUN 25, 2001 Model Affected: 1995 SUBARU LEGACY Summary: VEHICLE DESCRIPTION: PASSENGER VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH FRONT COIL SPRINGS ORIGINALLY SOLD IN OR CURRENTLY REGISTERED IN THE STATES OF CONNECTICUT, DELAWARE, ILLINOIS, INDIANA, IOWA, KENTUCKY, MAINE, MARYLAND, MASSACHUSETTS, MICHIGAN, MINNESOTA, MISSOURI, NEW YORK, NEW JERSEY, NEW HAMPSHIRE, OHIO, PENNSYLVANIA, RHODE ISLAND, VERMONT, VIRGINIA, WEST VIRGINIA, AND WISCONSIN, AND IN THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. THE FRONT COIL SPRINGS WERE PRODUCED WITH POOR PAINT QUALITY WHICH, AFTER CONTINUED EXPOSURE TO CORROSIVE SALT, CAN RESULT IN BREAKAGE OF THE SPRING. Read more: http://www.automobilemag.com/am/99/1995/subaru/legacy/base_sedan/341/recalls.html#ixzz2m4GemOPZ Consequence: DEPENDING ON THE LOCATION OF THE FRACTURE, A BROKEN SPRING COULD MOVE PAST THE SPRING SEAT AND CONTACT A FRONT TIRE. SOME TIRES HAVE DEFLATED DUE TO CONTACT WITH A BROKEN SPRING. Remedy: DEALERS WILL NOTIFIY CUSTOMERS TO BRING THEIR VEHICLE TO AN AUTHORIZE DEALERSHIP TO HAVE A SPRING GUARD INSTALLED ON BOTH FRONT STRUTS TO PREVENT TIRE PUNCTURE AND REPLACE ANY BROKEN SPRINGS FREE OF CHARGE. OWNER NOTIFICATION BEGAN SEPTEMBER 18, 2001. OWNERS WHO TAKE THEIR VEHICLES TO AN AUTHORIZED DEALER ON AN AGREED UPON SERVICE DATE AND DO NOT RECEIVE THE FREE REMEDY WITHIN A REASONABLE TIME SHOULD CONTACT SUBARU AT 1-800-782-2783. Read more: http://www.automobilemag.com/am/99/1995/subaru/legacy/base_sedan/341/recalls.html#ixzz2m4Gadk26

Nice looking basket. The nature of Legacy factory racks as shown in the photo is that they are not rated for very much weight (125-150 lbs maybe? Don't have a manual handy). A basket like yours could allow for it to be overloaded with all that nice space. I'm not sure what the weight of the basket is...15-20 lbs? That would have to factor into whatever else you want to carry in it. Like any piece going onto a factory rack bolted to the sheet metal roof, heed the load rating in the owner's manual. Your EA racks attach the rain gutters (I miss those) and allow for a higher carrying capacity (just like the Yakima 1A towers do, for example). That basket would be a nice spot for carrying a full size spare for sure.

Electric angle grinder or air tool grinder will have way more power and cut into the rail faster. The Dremel will take forever unless you have some turbo charged model that is way bigger than the one I have/others I have seen.

On the fuse box under my hood ('95 Legacy) there is a little diagram that shows what each fuse relates to (most are in action, but there are a few empty slots/spares). Yours should be the same I'm guessing. Also, the owner's manual should have info about fuse arrangement.

I would suggest using some Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster on those timing belt cover and fan bolts now so it can soak before you turn them this weekend.. I'm sure they will be rusty with all that St. Paul salt. I cracked both rear timing covers (they house the nut that the front cover bolts to) when the nuts spun due to rust. I'll be doing the zip tie method that Fairtax suggested if I decide to put the covers back on. Removing the radiator is easy: drain (plug located at lower passenger side of radiator) undo two bolts on top, disconnect the big inlet and outlet hoses, undo the two fan electrical connections and (if necessary) undo the two transmission cooler hoses next to the coolant overflow tank (which can be a lot easier for the upper hose if you remove the overflow tank).

There is a timing belt kit for this on eBay for $135 (includes shipping, seller is mizumoauto). I'm about to get one for my '95 Legacy.

I think this diagram from opposedforces shows your set up for reference: 1-inner oil seal 4-front axle bearing 2/3- front bearing housing ("knuckle") 5-outer oil seal

I got a rebuild kit off eBay for about $15 (free shipping). The "hardest" part of the process was getting the splined bolt onto the new contacts (which wasn't that hard). I studied up with a youtube vid ( ) that was helpful.

Trust johnc more than the wrecking yard guy!

+2 for both comments above. I've seen some cargo covers on Craigslist (grey for the 90s wagon interiors). I've purchased hundreds of items on eBay and only had a handful of dud transactions (all of which eBay resolved in my favor which equaled a refund).

A stainless helicoil definitely would increase the strength of the threads, but those helicoil kits are expensive! I got a new tensioner bracket for $6 so I'm ahead.

Thanks for the info. I need to pull the engine to do the separator plate so if I cannot get the bracket in place with the gasket before then, I should be able to wrestle it in later.

Fabulous first run to a salvage yard near me today. I can confirm that the tensioner bracket does easily come off without removing the cam sprocket. Three bolts and it is free (after removing the tensioner and water pump). Now that I have it off, I see there is a long rubber gasket along one edge (like the L shaped one on the water pump). I am pretty sure mine is bad. I don't see that piece in any of the timing belt kits on ebay. Does anyone know if that is a dealer only part?

Regarding the pipe: I always think about the possible outcomes. If the condenser is replaced and the system is recharged and the leak is gone...great. Lowest possible spent on parts/labor. If you replace the condenser get a recharge and you still have a leak because of the pipe, now you've wasted the refrigerant recharge and need to buy the pipe plus pay for another recharge. If it was my car, I'd replace the pipe as long as the system is being worked on. Maybe a salvage pipe (assuming you can get to a yard) would be worth a shot depending on time to get it and the price compared to $81. I've never replaced a condenser so I have no opinion on those.

I looked at the Yakima site and for a 2011 Impreza with a naked roof it says that you could use Q Towers. Those clamp to your roof with clips that fit the roofline of your particular car (Q128 in the front and Q83 int he rear for your new ride). Those clips have become pretty expensive over the years (I worked at REI in the 90s so I fit a lot of cars back in the day and remember the prices a lot cheaper!). You could look for both the towers and clips on eBay or Craigslist. Although it seems like CL has people selling entire systems more often and not just towers and/or clips. I had a factory rack added (by the dealer) to my new 2012 Dodge van and I have to say that process was painful. They ordered the wrong rack, twice it arrived damaged in shipping, then they scratched up the paint on the roof during installation, dirty finger marks on the headliner...but I'm not bitter. Of course, that was my first new car ever so I was more easily miffed. Just think seriously if you want to trust a dealer or private shop to install a factory rack. Don't rule out Thule gear if you see a good deal on some used stuff. You already need new towers/clips and Thule has a similar system that clamps to the roof. You can use your Rocketbox with Thule without problem (may require a different bracket to accommodate the rectangular bar). Side note: What kind of shape is your '98 in?

Sent you a PM with contact info for my old mechanic that could be worth a phone call/visit. He sold me my first Scoobie back in '94 and has a shop in a suburb SW of Minneapolis.