upnorthguy

noob2soob22: "Pick up a cheap OBDII scanner from Harbor Frieght, and carry it in your car preferably near you. Next time you get the check engine light, pull over and turn the key back to acc and then to on ( not running). scan the computer and write down the code(s) that are presented. look them up online when you get home." 92 was not yet OBDII so that won't work.

Hill holder was a feature for manual transmission that prevented the car from rolling back on a hill while trying to switch from the brake to the gas. I loved that feature on my old 80s EA81/82s. I heard it went away in the 90s but it is back again. Not an issue for you because you have AT.

Thanks for the info everyone. This is on my (ever growing) list of salvage yard items I'll be looking for. If I don't find one I can always get a t-handle allen wrench and that should work.

I'll be looking for a timing belt tensioner bracket when I hit the salvage yard. Does anyone know if you can remove the bracket without removing the cam sprocket on that side? It isn't clear to me after looking at the FSM. There the cam is removed before the bracket, but I'm not sure if that required for clearance issues or if they just chose to do things in that order for other reasons. After a momentary vision of an upcoming episode with helicoils or something similar I realized that my problem hole is on the tensioner bracket and can be solved through an easy replacement. I was having a hard time figuring out the part number but I think I have it (13086AA012 if someone could confirm that I have the right part that would be helpful) from a site called opposedforces.com. Is there another/better site for determining part numbers that one cannot determine from some of the online mail order dealer sites/diagrams? Yes, I've determined that I needed a better torque wrench. Getting things accurate with a beam wrench is not that easy.

I'm wondering if anyone with a Legacy in the '95-'99 range that has a sunroof (power moon roof) could post a pic of the emergency tool used to manually open/close the sunroof. The '95 I recently purchased does not have the tool and I'm trying to figure out what I am looking for or what I can use as a substitute (is a hex head?). Thanks!

I also just got a '95 last month so I'm going through many of the same issues. Both of my inner tie rod boots are ripped like yours. It looks like a simple removal of the inner tie rod end to slip on new boots. I'm going to clean and regrease the joint as well.

As others have found, I think, this is not a true statement. The A/C button slides out of the control unit. You lift a tab on the back of the unit and push the A/C button out. There is one bulb on there with the 1/4 turn base just like the other dash bulbs. In my 95 Legacy LS, this bulb was even a bit shorter than the OEM bulbs in the control button bulbs. I used a Radio Shack #7219, sku 272-1092, $1.99 for a pair) bulb just like the others and there was no colored sleeve (or "bulb rubber) on the A/C bulb. I did encounter a minor issue: the RS bulb is just a smidge longer than the bulb in there so when you go to push the A/C button in and out it still engages/disengages, but it is a bit sticky like it is getting hung up slightly on the longer bulb. Upon inspection, I saw in area beneath where the bulb sits there is a slight mount of plastic (the opposite of a dimple). It looked like just enough to rub against the longer RS bulb and cause the stickiness. I removed a cover on the A/C switch body to access: there are four tabs that you gently pry open and the switch comes apart. NOTE: be careful as there is a spring in there that assists with the switch return. It isn't super strong, but it did fly out a few inches (onto the towel I had down to catch any small parts). Once I had that cover off, I could get at the bottom half of the switch body and closer to that little nub of plastic that was interfering with the RS bulb. I hit it with a dremel bit for just a few seconds and removed a mm or two of plastic. I reassembled the switch (with the spring back in the little tubular channel and the back edge of the switch behind the metal clip you see) and this eliminated the hangup created by the RS bulb. I just installed and tested it and my A/C button is back in the world of illumination (blue)...and moves freely.

Partial update: I'm pacing myself on the repairs/parts as the car is not needed as the family third yet, but I've discovered a few more things. I removed the timing belt covers and, of course, both sides had a bolt or two (even after I'd been soaking with PB for a few days) that was frozen which spun the backing nut in the rear cover and cracked each one. Rear timing belt covers have been added to my parts list. Has anyone had luck acquiring these at junk yards? I did not see any melting of the rear timing covers, so I'm hopeful that the engine was not overheated a bunch. After cleaning lots of oil off of various parts of the engine/transmission, I think I can now say that the separator plate is leaking a fair amount, both valve cover gaskets have some leaks, and maybe the oil pan (it is at the rear, which could be fallout from the separator plate leak). Looks like an engine pull will be coming, but not until after I get the t-belt and water pump done. The timing belt itself has some decent cracking, so it can't be long before it would be shredding, so my planned replacement is well timed. I learned a couple of weeks ago that Fairfax County was upping the penalty if you didn't title your car within 30 days (from $100 to $350) so I need to get it registered. To do that, I need a current emissions inspection. Since there is a significant leak at the water pump (the gasket) I decided to install a new gasket so I could try and stem the water flow and get the car to an inspection location. After the usual wrestling with rusty hose clamps and a frozen spade connector to a ground wire for a rad fan, radiator out, timing belt off, starter bump to loosen the crank bolt (took 6-7 bumps before it came loose...a bit scary!), water pump removed, new gasket in place (just the main one, did not replace the "L" shaped one on the side), torque everything. I had a devil of a time figuring out the spot to stick an allen wrench to hold the flex plate so I could tighten the crank bolt (a wasted 15 minutes). Now I can't believe it took me that long to find it. Fill 'er up with some water...and proceed to hear water steadily leaking out of the water pump location (same as before) as I'm filling. Ugh. Way more than a drip. I started it up and, surprisingly, the leak reduced to just a small drip now and then. off to emissions testing (pass, yay!).The leak is, like it was last time I checked, definitely from around the water pump joint and not the thermostat gasket. I know my t-belt kit that I plan to get from mizumoauto includes a new water pump. I'm wondering if the water pump currently on my car could have been damaged (warped?) or something to make it so that even a new gasket installed would still allow such a hefty leak? This may be moot because if my planned water pump replacement, but could something have happened to the block that a new water pump/gasket will not address the issue? Side story: During the emissions test the inspector told me my car wouldn't start (even though it started fine to get to the station, and the three times I started it to move up in line just prior to the test). I just replaced the battery when I purchased the car two weeks ago and have not had any problems with starting. Turn the key, all dash lights come on but no crank. We look for alarm system (none to my knowledge and no key fob came with the car). One of the mechanics comes over and taps the starter with a long screwdriver and voila. This leads to some searching on here last night that points me in the director of ordering a rebuild kit from ebay with new contacts and plunger. Even reman starters are expensive! If the rebuild doesn't work I'll pick one up at the junk yard. Side story number 2: I learned (the hard way, of course) that it is not a good idea to start and run the engine for a couple seconds to check the timing after installing the belt WITHOUT connecting a small hose between the transmission cooler inlet and outlet tubes. That fluid shot 10 feet in the air and a one second blast made for some fun cleanup under the hood. John, I'm like you- no garage and just working outside the shed. I live in (and dislike) the typical northern VA home that does not have a garage (or even a carport in many cases).

Update: I used some degreaser and sprayed and wiped a bunch of goo under the engine tonight...what an oily mess. I ran the engine some to burn off the cleaner and when viewing the underside, saw nice big squirts of water coming from the water pump seal. Obviously that is bad and likely steaming off on the exhaust pipes. Maybe that is the source of the white smoke (and not a bad HG)?! I will take a look at the plugs as suggested by Matt to see what they look like. Can just pull one plug per side or do I need to inspect all four? If it is just the water pump seal, is it still worth it to pull the engine to get at the oil separator plate seal? I guess I could just do the other seals I would get access to while doing the water pump/timing belt and then see what happens...

Dang it, I lost my reply before it posted...here is take 2: Matt: I saw the discussion about the problems with non-OEM t-stats so I did plan to use an OEM 'stat. Good reminder. I also was planning on the valve cover gaskets and the cam seals. Based on discussions here, I was not going to do the oil pan seal unless I found that it was leaking when I figure out the source(s) of the oil leaks. Grossgary: I like the sounds of GD's PAHR. I looked at that thread...totally excellent! I will get my supplies and set up a spot on my bench to clean those heads up myself. I definitely will be working on this on the weekend (or two probably) and waiting for shop work is not my idea of fun. Fairtax: I didn't know what the fire ring was until I read the PAHR thread, but, now that I do, I will make sure that the fire ring area is nice and clean. johnceggleston: The person who sold me the car took it to a local shop for regular maintenance//repair work. I know the shop fairly well and they diagnosed the HG problem (and quoted $1100 for the repair apparently). I also had to add a fair amount of water to the radiator before I made the two mile drive to my house and saw plenty of white smoke behind me on the drive (although I did keep an eye on the temp gauge and it never went above the normal running temp). I have not checked for bubbles in the radiator yet, but I will do that. Are there other tests I should do to triple confirm that I have a HG problem?

Greetings- I just bought a '95 Legacy LS wagon with the EJ22 engine (EA4T with 143k) for cheap ($500) because it needs head gaskets. I'm going to do the work myself (first time for this repair) and I'm wondering if anyone in Northern VA area has a recommendation for a shop that can machine the cylinder heads after I remove them. I live in Springfield for reference. I'm going to pull the engine to do this so I am going to do the timing belt/water pump (of course) and already saw some discussion about the eBay kits with the Aisin water pumps (which looks like a great deal). I also see that there is decent amount of gunked on oil on/below the block so I am going to clean the block and investigate that and figure out what else I need to do (e.g. oil separator/baffle plate, etc.). I'm still trying to figure out which head gaskets I should use. I know the consensus for the EJ25 motors looks to be a HG with MLS. How about for the EJ22...do most people use an OEM head gasket? Decent aftermarket like Felpro that is similar to the OEM? Or some other aftermarket that is superior to the OEM? Any info is appreciated.

Hey Everyone, I'm happy to be back in the gang of scoobie owners. I just purchased a 1995 Legacy LS wagon (for $500) to use as a third car for my oldest daughter who is about to get her license. I have previously owned a number of family members: '86 GL-10 sedan, '87 GL wagon (loved that d/r), '88 DL wagon, and a '90 Legacy wagon (we had some bad luck with that first gen EJ22!). This wagon is in pretty good shape with only 143k miles and no body rust. The big project for it is the need for head gaskets. I'm going to work on that myself so I'll continue digging into the various threads here on that topic. I've seen lots of discussion about what gasket to use (OEM v. some other MLS) and I haven't figured out what direction I'm going yet. I have some time so I can do more research. I need to find a shop in northern Virginia (just SW of DC) where I can get the heads measured for flatness and machined if needed. Anyone have a recommendation? I look forward to using the board more. I received some great help (on the old message board!) when I changed my first timing belt on the '87 GL back in 2001 or so.

Greetings- I saw an old Scoobie around town the other day and it made me wax nostalgic. I do not currently own one, but would like to get another to have as a "fun" car. A couple of searches on Google brought me back here. I didn't realize that the board moved (I have since searched some emails and found the message from ShawnW in August 2003) from ezboard. Glad to be home again! I'm not sure what my handle was there (it may have been the same) but I had a handful of posts as I worked on my car. I know I got some good tips while replacing the timing belts in my '87 GL wagon. Subarus from my past: 1988 DL Wagon (4x4, 5sp; from 79k-179k before rust won) 1986 GL-10 Sedan (4x4 5sp; those air shocks were wicked) 1990 Legacy L Wagon (5 sp 2.5l; lemon motor, but once replaced it was decent) 1987 GL Wagon (4x4, 5sp D/R; CO car so no rust when I got it. This one was my fav!) I grew up in northern Minnesota so Subarus were a fixture in the winter driving. Of course, the heavy use of salt usually brought the cars to an early grave body-wise. I have decided I would like to keep my eyes open for one of the following: 1986-1989 DL or GL wagon 4x4 5sp (D/R would be nice if it was a GL) 1990-1994 Loyale wagon 4x4 5sp 1983-1984 GL wagon 4x4 I'll keep my eyes on the for sale section. I currently live in the DC area but get back to MN to visit so anything in between isn't too far away. Of course, for the right car who knows far I'll go... Glad to be back and looking forward to some more winter driving in a classic car!