upnorthguy

Denso O2 sensors are perfect and are OEM equivalent. When I bought one a few months ago Rockauto had the best price for that downstream sensor (about $50 as I recall). Look around online for a 5% RA coupon to save a few bucks.

You can get a compression tester from AutoZone for free from their tool loan program. (You basically buy it and then they refund your money when you return it). To use it, you just remove a plug, screw in the end of the tester hose (has spark plug threads on it) and crank the engine a few times. The gauge will tell you the psi reading for that cylinder. Repeat for each (do the same number of engine cranks for each to get an equal comparison).

1. I wouldn't go with the super cheap ones. I'm not a fan of having to deal with the ball joints twice. The RA price for Moog is good. Amazon is about the same. With a good coupon you can usually get Moog at Advanced Auto for just a bit more and not have to wait for shipping time. I'd also consider how long you plan to have the car. Keeping it for as long as you can (a few years)? Go Moog. Just looking for it to go a year or two? Go cheaper. 2. Are the axles Subaru OEM or replacements? (Green inner cups are Subaru) If they aren't making noise and are OEM I would reboot them (boot kits are only about $10 on RA). No need to replace both sides unless boots are split or you have noise.

When I replaced my rack boots I used some red and tacky like this. It didn't take much (a couple of finger blobs). Also before you remove the jam nut (in grossgary's list the "loosen nut on inner tie rod" step) and similar to what fairftax suggested with the paint pen, I like to count the number of threads showing above the jam nut. Write that down. A small screwdriver can be helpful in counting as you can move it along the threads and not lose your spot/count.

Factory service manual. http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Legacy%20Outback/

Good tips from mikec here. Just to help clarify, the timing belt cover bolts don't break themselves, but the plastic that holds the captive nut does, so the bolt/nut just spins. Or the tab that holds the captive nut breaks off completely. Also, I think he is referring to Lisle seal puller like this. Great tool.

Check out http://beergarage.com/SubySeparator.aspx for some great photos/info.

Local salvage yard is a good bet. You could also use www.car-part.com to see if you can find someone close.

If the stud is going to come out, then it sounds like is is cemented in and a studless removal is not something that sounds fun. I'm thinking a replacement spindle is in your future, but as you already figured, donors will be hard to come by in VT. Knowing that, I'd torch it as montana tom suggested. If you trash the bearing it doesn't sound like your on a very different path than you're looking at now (the used spindle). I'd see if anyone on here has one they can sell you if there isn't anything in the yards near you.

I'm not quite clear on what you have apart. Do you have the ball joint castle nut removed from the control arm and you are just trying to get the ball joint out of the knuckle/spindle? If yes, then your best bet is something similar to the Snap On puller. You can build one yourself or there used to be someone that sold one on fleabay for about $45 (although a few quick searches are not pulling it up for me). Links to some DIY that show what other people did to make a remover: http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/suspension-handling/134369210-diy-subaru-ball-joint-removal-tool-around-18-1-lug-nut.html http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/99-do-yourself-illustrated-guides/46826-homemade-ball-joint-puller.html I made one similar to the clubwrx version (which required me to get a lug nut welded to the threaded rod). Works like a charm.

Thanks for the thoughts. I didn't include this, but I also replaced both engine temp sensors a few months ago as well (no change in mpg with those replaced). I used sensors from Advance Auto and there was only one choice. Any issue with those or does it need to be OEM? I haven't done anything with the knock sensor so I'll look to that next. I know I see people talk about getting these on ebay. Anyone have a recommendation for a seller on there?

My low mpg continues. I've had this 95 LS for about 1.5 years. Mileage has also been low the entire time I've had it (about 12-14 mpg with mostly city driving). Stock EJ22 with this work done in the last six months: PCV valve NGK copper plugs NGK wires Denso front O2 sensor Fuel filter Air filter Timing belt Clean MAF sensor (also tried swapping in a yard sensor...no change) Trans flush (last summer) Front/rear diff fluid (last summer) I've had a P0441 come on a few times. I have replaced a few pieces of vacuum hose and that seemed to fix it, but now it is back on again. The mileage has been the same with or without the code. I only have a basic code reader, so I can't get much info from OBDII. I borrowed a friend's reader that has more functionality to see what I could see but couldn't make out much (limited info through OBDII because it is a 95?). Looking for suggestions on how to identify and address the mileage issue. Does anyone know what info I should be able to get from OBDII with the right reader or using a cable/laptop/program?

Rockauto has the Denso (OEM) O2 sensor for about $51. Look online for a 5% off coupon.

Search the 90s to present section in the new gen forum for "lift" (back one level from this thread). There are numerous threads about this (as you guessed, not the first time this question has been asked).

As Fairtax said, 95 Auto EJ22 has EGR.

Discussion in this thread from within the last week. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/153285-1998-outback-disk-brakes-onto-96-legacy/

About 15 mpg in my 95 LS with EJ22 with 4EAT and stock 195/60/15 tires. Driving around town (up to 50 mph) with trips generally 1-5 miles.

Hit a salvage yard and pull an accessory 12V outlet. I snagged a couple from the back trunk wall of 96-99 Outbacks wagons.

All the Advance Autos around me read check engine lights for free. I'm sure it varies by location. A few years ago I bought a cheap code reader from fleabay (about $20). It does the job fine.

Some people here take out the transmission to get at the back of the engine (rear main, clutch in the case of a manual, separator plate). Since you need to do headgaskets, it is better/smarter/easier to pull the engine. Much easier access for the heads, etc. The vid by Briansmobile that I linked to above shows Brian going through the process of disconnecting everything needed before you pull the engine. You're right that he doesn't actually show the lifting of the engine, but that is the easy part. You could also check out beergarage. Good write up and some pics.http://beergarage.com/SubyHoist.aspx. Between the vid and beergarage, I got everything disconnected fairly easily. I made sure to hit every fastener I could see with some penetrating oil ahead of time to maximize chance of easy removal. I just used my regular metric sockets to access the bolts connecting the torque converter to the flex plate. I think they are six point, but I'm not positive. Seemed to work fine. I made sure to stick a few fingers through the access hole to press in on the converter when I started separating the engine from the tranny to keep the converter tight against the tranny. Seemed to work, but maybe I got lucky (?!). As Fairtax sugggested, I think one of the hardest parts was getting the engine separated from the tranny. It really took some prying to get them apart. I used a couple of thin screwdrivers to get a crack started, then got a small pry bar in there to widen it more. I pulled the intake manifold as it makes access much easier. Not that bad. This was also my biggest car maneuver to date. It took me a while to complete, but I only had a couple of hours each night to work on it and I ended up chasing a stupid mistake to get it running again after I dropped the engine back in. Now that I've done it, I could do it much much quicker. Do some searches here for reseating the torque converter for those that have to deal with it separating from the tranny (worst case scenario is ugly!). It is like something akin to the dog whisperer. I'm glad I didn't have to learn the trick.

Wiring diagram for your wagon can be found here: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Legacy%20Outback/1998/

Do you hear the noise when braking during those sharp turns? (Check to see if the noise changes during the turn with brakes applied and coasting.)

Pulling one at a yard will be the cheapest for sure. Plenty of labor to get at it though. Depending on how much wrestling you want to do, you may try to watch for one on fleabay (or someone on here). I bought a front subframe for my old Civic (old one was rusted out enough to cause failure of state safety inspection) for about $105 (included shipping) from a yard in Cali. It was worth it to me not to pull it at a yard.

Last summer I broke an allen wrench off when I was using it to hold my flex plate (must have been a foreign cheapo!) and heard the stub go rattling down in the belllhousing. I turned the crank by hand a few times to see if I could shake it loose and heard nothing, turned fine so I kept on rolling. When I finally got around to pulling the engine months later I looked for the broken piece and it was nowhere to be found...also must have passed through like Gary's bolt.

The gear ratio of any transmission you swap in needs to match your rear differential. (Or swap in a differential with matching gear ratio to your "new" transmission.)