upnorthguy

If you need to do the separator plate you might as well pull the engine. It really isn't that bad. Just take some photos and use tape to label your connections. Briansmobile1 has . Tracking down an engine hoist is the hardest part.

This article looks like lots of good info about adding delay to your rear wiper. If you want yours to be delay as the only setting when you turn it on, you just need to wire in a delay circuit somewhere.

As Fairtax suggested, you need to see what is going on. If you need to adjust the brake, here is some info. From FSM: Parking/emergency/e-brake section D: ADJUSTMENT 1. SHOE CLEARANCE 1) Remove adjusting hole cover from back plate. 2) Turn adjusting screw [diagram shows screwdriver moving wheel up] using a slot-type screwdriver until brake shoe is in close contact with disc rotor. 3) Turn back (downward) adjusting screw 3 or 4 notches. 4) Install adjusting hole cover to back plate. 2. LEVER STROKE 1) Remove console box lid. 2) Forcibly pull parking brake lever 3 to 5 times. 3) Adjust parking brake lever by turning adjusting nut until parking brake lever stroke is set at 7 to 8 notches with operating force of 196 N (20 kg, 44 lb). 4) Tighten lock nut. 5) Install console box lid. Lever stroke: 7 to 8 notches when pulled with a force of 196 N (20 kg, 44 lb) Tightening torque (Lock nut): 5.9±1.5 N·m (0.60±0.15 kg-m, 4.3±1.1 ft-lb)

I'm sure someone knows the answer to your question...just no one that has viewed it as of now. Just over 24 hours isn't always long enough for the heavy hitters to chime in.

You should be able to find a new cv axle at any chain auto store (looks like there is an Advance Auto Parts about 12 miles north, AutoZone is maybe 6). Those non-OEM axles are not generally preferred because the quality sucks compared to the OEM axles (even used OEM), but it sounds like you are in a bit of a time crunch. Search the site for "axle shaft" for your model car and it should find the results that fit. Looks like the ball park is $70-80, but search online for discount coupons (you can usually find one for 20-30% off).

Click on the "Forums" on the top of the page. Then scroll down to the "Marketplace" section. Look for "Subaru Part/Stuff for sale".

Scarce is relative. I'm guessing there are people on the board that have one or more of these laying around. Post an ad on the parts wanted section here and see what you get!

I resealed my oil pan when I had my engine out for the separator plate. Definitely easier to do it then compared to working on it now if you have a clutch coming up. Ultra grey RTV is good for the pan seal. You shouldn't have to replace the oil pickup tube, but there is an o-ring where the tube attaches that you should replace when you have the pan off. See beergarage for pics and a write up (except that he uses a cork gasket on the pan and most people here prefer/suggest RTV).

+1 to the rag. I've lost a few screws into the abyss behind the radio. I didn't even try to find them. It is way, way easier to undo the temperature cable below the glove box rather than at the back of the control unit. One side will take you 15 seconds for removal and reinstall, the other will take you 100x that if you are lucky. You should be able to pick up a temp control unit at a salvage yard. The yard near me only charges $15 for that type (more for the digital controls). If the price is anything close to that I would pick up two if you can and you'll be set.

I saw the post for that Impreza. He is asking OBO, so throw something a bit lower at it. I bet you could get it for $650 or 700. Parts are easy to come by at the salvage yards and the work is easy enough usually. The rust doesn't progress much here in VA, so hopefully it isn't too deep.

There is a nice thread over at subaruoutback.org about how to do the mod to have your fogs stay on with the high beams (see pages 2+ in the thread). http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/80-electrical-electronics/6378-97-ob-fog-light-relay-location-2.html

I can't believe this is true. What county are you in? You should be able to find some info on your county court web site. I found some info for a few counties in central Texas that indicate there is small claims and the limit is $5,000. You can always represent yourself in small claims (that is the point of that type of court). That being said, it definitely would involve some time and a few bucks (filing fee for complaint), and may not result in resolution in your favor, but it may be worth pursuing for leverage. Keep in mind that the dealer may, and likely would, try and remove the claim from small claims and bump it up to the next higher level of court if possible (as the dealer would likely want to hire an attorney). Negative PR through social media can also be effective these days (assuming you've exhausted private discussions before going public).

For example, insurance might say that a new bumper cover is needed. Cost of bumper cover (usually a few hundred dollars) plus the cost of painting it to match and installation (another couple hundred). You go buy a used bumper cover from the salvage yard for $50 and install it. Delta is yours for the repair fund.

I think you should not deprive the NASIOC forum of your wisdom. They are always looking for some good contributions.

Please, please, let the rest of us "waste" our own time. Well, at least the two minutes it takes to remove one hose clamp, slide a radiator hose off, and pour some coolant into the block.

Of course, parts from a salvage yard would be a good option. I haven't messed with the heated seats so I'm not sure how easily you could try and remove the pads to swap. Swapping out the seats sounds easier. I'd bring a battery with and test any yard seats before you buy (unless the yard has a guarantee).

For your favorite electronics items. With the Chapter 11 bankruptcy declaration earlier this week, roughly half of the stores are closing. I just got a nice discount on some parts at a store near me. See if the favorite 272-1092 12V bulbs are there!

When in doubt, check the owner's manual. There should be some information in there about it. My 01 Civic with a factory radio requires the input of a "radio code" after the battery is disconnected to prevent theft. If the code is entered incorrectly 10 times the radio locks up.

Also, when people post cars on Craigslist they are not always accurate or don't give the full name. You really need to see a picture of the car to have a better idea of what it actually is. I see listings all the time that aren't quite right.

If you end up going deep for the core, beergarage has a decent play by play here.

A hammer, a Sawzall, rust... Are you having an ABS issue (e.g. ABS light on)?

I've never added shims on the back. Pads come with a very thin plate usually (not sure I'd call it a shim, but it is already on there) Definitely antiseize any contact point on the pad (the two ends that slide along the caliper body and on the back where the piston hits). Just be careful not to get any antiseize on the pad itself (slippery compounds tend to hinder breaking ya know!).

I've replaced a few calipers on different cars. All pretty easy. Down the line: - Loaded or unloaded are fine, just depends on price and deals (sales, online coupons, etc.) Last pair on the fronts of my 95 LS I bought the lower Advanced Auto calipers, but ended up returning them for some loaded Beck Arnley's because of some issues with how the pads fit into the AA remans ("remanufactured") - Rotors, pads, calipers do not need to be matched by manufacturer. - I paid a few bucks more for the B/A calipers, but with a coupon, it wasn't too much more. I don't think there was a huge difference between them. I wouldn't buy the cheapest/cheap rotors. Buy at least mid or higher grade. Warping cheap new rotors would be annoying. I'm sure there are lots of opinions about what pads to get (ceramic vs. semi metallic, etc.). I've had cheap ones and middle and they've all worked decent for me (much better than the old pads that were really worn out!). Middle of the road is good. -If you replace the calipers, you'll need to bleed the lines some since there will be some air in the system near the new calipers. When I've done it, I just opened the bleed screw on the newly installed caliper and pumped some, then added more to the master reservoir, repeat until no air bubbles are coming out. I'm sure you can find some info about bleeding on here. -No special tools required. The socket to remove your old hub had to bigger than a 17 or 19 mm (you'll likely need up through 17 or 19 mm on your brakes). Hub should be something big like 30-32mm range. Pick up a container of antiseize (like this or similar) and two cans of brake cleaner (cheap stuff works just fine) and some of those heavier blue paper towels. Does't hurt to have a flare nut wrench for the brake lines/bleeder valve screw (but a regular combo wrench can work too...). I haven't worked on any Foresters, but I wouldn't think there is anything special about the brakes compared to Legacys. Wrench on!

An engine crane/hoist is the easiest, especially if you are removing/installing by yourself.  You can also rig up a chain hoist above the car if you have a decently strong setup above (garage/rafter boards).  These engines aren't that heavy (well under 500 lbs, only a couple hundred even with heads on).  I've heard some burly people on here talking about how they picked one up with one hand and tossed it in the back of their haulin' scoob (or something close to that).   If you can borrow a hoist that is the best (luckily a neighbor of mine had one so I rolled it down the street!).  Here in the US, you can get a cheap hoist (e.g. from Harbor Freight) for as little as $130 when it is on sale (which pays for itself quickly compared to renting one as described by ScottAust).   When I removed my EJ22 (to service the oil separator plate) I only needed the usual hand tools and the engine hoist.  I did replace my cam/crank seals and a Lisle seal puller ($12) was worth gold for ease of use and frustration savings, but definitely not required.

If you unbolt the power steering pump and just move it to the side, you aren't opening any part of it up to access an o-ring so nothing to change. Just flop it to the left (see the youtube video by Briansmobile1 where he removes an engine from an Outback. He goes through manifold removal including the power steering pump).