upnorthguy

You could also ping user Lockmedic over at subaruoutback.org in the 1995-1999 section. He is a locksmith and a Subaru hound.

Yeah, electrical isn't my forte either. I'll dig around some more near the steering column and try and post some pics for those visual learners. As expected, I needed some hobbit hands to try and get at the connections under the dash. The instructions were great for getting the general guide for the wires under the hood and what plug to use to access the interior. This will also help me scavenge for another harness when I hit the salvage yards since I have a better idea of where to look. I posted in another thread, but if anyone has a need for the factory wiring instructions (four pages) for 95-99 fog lights (the dealer install kit, not the same as Outbacks I think) drop me a PM with your e-mail and I'll send you a pdf copy. Update: Fairtax's last bit of advice was spot on. The wire I needed was in one of the bundles coming down from the light stalk. The connector size didn't match up and the wire was in a different location from the instructions I had. It was still blue/yellow, but the tertiary color spot was different. Fog lights in action.

Thanks to the excellent set of fog lights I now have from grossgary, I'm almost wired up. The wiring instructions that came with the kit (which says they are for "Legacy ('94 ~ MY )" and include the same fog switch that is in the 95-99 vehicles that have fogs. I have all the connections made except one. It doesn't seem to match up with what the instructions say. A screenshot of the wiring instructions page in question can be seen here: http://prntscr.com/5uleye The last lone wire is supposed to splice onto a white 8-pole connector that is on the right side of the driver foot area. There are a number of plugs there, including some white ones, but none that match up with the diagram shown in the instructions. I looked for the wire referenced in the instructions as well (yellow/blue) but I didn't see it in any of the bundles there. I'm trying to decipher the wiring diagram to figure out what connection I am missing (I loaded a screen shot of the fog light wiring http://prntscr.com/5umpyu). I just took the rig for a spin (it is night now) and I see the switch lights up as it should and dims when I dim my dash lights so that seems to be in order. Just need that last connection to get the fogs powered up. Any thoughts?

With bleed screw out and radiator cap off, that should be enough to help purge extra air (with a little front end elevation).

If you search for "burping" I think you'll find some posts about it. Usually, it is best to fill the block through the upper radiator hose first, then attach it and fill more. Elevating the front end (on ramps, up a curb, on an inclined driveway, etc.) help as well. I agree with xdeadeye1 and think it sounds like air in the system.

I was able to rig up a crude cam gear wrench using an adjustable wrench on the spoke of the cam gear and a pipe wrench to hold the adjustable while I got the cam nut with a socket. It could be tricky with the engine still in the car (I had my engine out when I did this. Ideally you would use a strap wrench. I've seen pictures online of guys that used a board and some bolts to make a cam gear holder more like the metal wrenches you can get for $50ish online.

See my previous posts here and here for some discussion on rack choices You don't say if your car already has a factory rack or not so I can't tell what fits. Yakima or Thule are like Pepsi and Coke (both have their fans, both are popular and both work). I don't have any of the aero bars, but then again, I already have a bunch of stuff that fits my old Yak round bars. I don't think it is worth the money, but I don't drive with my bars on all the time (I put them on when I need them, and then take them off). If you are going to be carrying around a bike rack or a kayak rack all the time because you do it frequently, the aero profile helps with wind noise. I think the reduction in drag as it relates to mileage is de minimus. Look for a nice big box on Cr@igslist or search fleabay and see if there is one for sale near you (people almost never want to ship them because it would cost too much).

Isn't this where the flashers could save the day?

I know that is all you need, but without going for the 140 mile drive, you should be able to have either Napa or O'Reilly's order that set in for you. Paying $9 for the kit (oil pump gasket, crank seal and o-ring) will be cheaper than the $30 in gas you said it would take. The kit that xdeadeye1 is saying he got from Rockauto for $9 is undoubtedly the same kit I'm point you towards. They have 9 remaining for $5.12 each. WIth shipping it is probably more than what you'll pay if you get Napa to order it in for you.

I understand the nearest dealer is 70 miles away. What about an auto parts store as I suggested? Advance Auto (part in the link above)? Napa (same/similar kit is $9.93)? Pep boys ($9.99)? O'Reilly's ($8.99)? Whatever auto parts store is near you and has a site, search for "crank seal" and that gets you to the Fel Pro kit.

Of course you don't have to replace them, but as long as you have it apart, you really should. For the oil pump gasket you can use anerobic sealant like this, the Right Stuff by Permatex, or a rubber gasket. I used a rubber gasket that came as part of a Fel Pro kit that included the oil pump gasket, the crank shaft seal and the oil pump o-ring. The entire set is $9.99. (Don't forget to use a coupon for Adv Auto, which can usually be found with a quick online search. For example, TRT30 gets you 30% off right now....) This is the same kit used by Miles Fox in his EJ22 video .

I just bought some fog lights from grossgary that include a set of wiring instructions that is for the dealer add on (not integral like the Outbacks). It uses some of those snap around wire splicers. it tells you which wires to pick up to get the dash lights, etc. If anyone wants a copy, send me a message with your e-mail and I'll send you a copy of the pdf.

I'm guessing you probably have a friend with a smart phone...buy him/her a six pack and sit in the car and have a cold one and download away.

In the FSM, go to the engine section. in the version of the FSM I have the timing info is in the pdf named "MSA5TCD95L5458". Torque specs are there. I found that the plastic on the timing covers likes to break when the frozen nut/bolts are turned, and you end up removing the cover . Zip ties work to resecure them if you don't break it too badly. Spray with some penetrating oil before. Getting out the seals can be a bit tricky (I didn't want to score anything). Spend $13 bucks on this Lisle seal puller. Makes removal so easy. Beergarage.com has a nice pic tutorial on a bunch of stuff, including the oil pump. It also has the o-ring part number (806919050).

Yes, you can remove the timing covers without removing anything else. It is a little tight in there, but should be no problem. The biggest issue could be some of the timing cover bolts might be seized up, which means when you go to remove them, some that have captive nuts in the rear cover spin and break the plastic.

Not sure if you could tell during your removal, but if the added wire harness used the factory relay location, it is buried up above the fuse box at the driver footwell (some pics in this thread). Of course you can always have it somewhere else (easier to access!). I tried digging around up there when I was at the yard, but it is super tight and hard to access in vehicles that have the remote door opening and a security system (which the Outback did in the car I was digging into).

Seems like it is just further down in the listing on RA: http://prntscr.com/5morgw I expanded Subaru>Legacy>98>2.5L H4>Suspension>Strut then about half way down in the "Original ride quality" section $71.79 each (plus you can always find at least a 5% off coupon online).

Do other lights light up (such as the radio, heater/AC controls, any switches like fog lights, rear defrost, etc.)? Bulbs can burn out that provide light to the back side of the dash and various buttons/controls, but there are a number of different bulbs there which would leave one or two dark spots on your dash. If all of them are out it seems unlikely that they all decided to burn out at the same time and it is some other problem (fuse, wiring).

When I was digging in an Outback (I think it was a 97) at the yard last month to get the fog switch, I looked at the wiring ... it didn't seem like an easy thing to separate (ran into a much larger bundle, totally taped up factory style). The fog light kit on non-Outbacks (GT and maybe LSi?) may have been dealer install and more separate, but from what I've seen the Outback wiring would take a lot of untaping and digging to get free. My knuckles were beat up enough that day and I didn't dig any deeper than the dash switch. People add fogs to cars often enough...just need to get the wiring figured out to catch power for the dash lights so the fog button lights up when your lights are on. (I haven't done it yet, but this is on my list of projects in the next month!). I found a vid someone did . Good start for the wiring.

No need to hit the dealership for wires...just get a set of NGK wires (you can get them at parts stores (Advance Auto, etc. ~$64, but look for online coupons to get the price down). They can also be ordered from Amazon ($41.86). Two day shipping if you have Prime.

I've been looking into adding fog lights for my 95 LS and found that it does not have wiring for fog lights. I think some of the newer years had the wiring in place. I'm not sure about the Impreza, but for my Legacy I can add the factory fog switch to a blank in the dash, I just have to wire it up.

In the sig line... '95 LS EJ22 4EAT. Cooling fins are in decent shape, but I don't have a good idea of how old the radiator is generally.

Steering wheel does not need to be removed. It is a little tight, but keep wiggling and the cluster bezel comes out (that is a tighter fit with the steering wheel compared to the cluster itself).

Interesting event this weekend. Coming back from a quick trip to the store (just < 1 mile). Realize there is no heat as the mrs is complaining. Look at temp gauge and it is a little higher than normal...and rising. Cold air is blowing. Keep cruising home and a block away I see some steam start to come out from under the hood and smell hot coolant. I figure something blew out (hose, etc.). Coast in the last block to the house, get the hood up and see the air bleed screw is broken (top is cracked). The air bleed screw might have been weak, as I thought it seemed a little soft when I buttoned up my engine reinstall some months ago, but the car has been driven daily many times since then and no problem. Temp gauge on the dash is always at the same spot when warm, hot air blew fine. Yesterday I decided to throw in a new OEM thermostat I had (old t-stat was factory size- nice and beefy). As I went to fire it up I saw CEL (P0115 and P0125). Did some searching and came up with engine coolant temperature sensor. Fired it up and saw a small coolant leak. Determined that the upper radiator hose blew out, but it didn't split the hose or pop a slightly loose hose clamp...it blew out the plastic at the lip where the upper hose was connected to the radiator (a small ring of plastic was inside the upper hose, corresponding to where the hose clamp was secured). I was able to dremel off a small plastic stop nub on the stub on the radiator so I could get the hose on there another cm or so, and then clamp it down. I replaced the ECTS and cleared the codes. Figured out that the air bleed screw is M10 x 1.25 threads and stuck a bolt in there). Coolant added, fired up and after some burping, heat is again working. Any thoughts on why the pressure built up and blew out the upper radiator connection? I'm thinking it was a bad thermostat and the lack of circulation built up pressure there. Something else?

Profile says 98 Outback Limited. Need to know more about what car the calipers came from. I have a 95 LS and my front calipers were single piston with the smaller rotor (that fit with 14" wheels). My car has the 15" alloys on it and I upgraded to the dual piston and larger rotors. If the calipers you are being offered are from a 14" set up they won't work with your larger rotors (unless you get rotors that fit, either the matching set from the donor car or new ones). If the calipers you are looking at don't work, you can get reman calipers at Advance Auto for about $45 each using a coupon (they have one for 35% off right now).