upnorthguy

I have a friend that lives in the San Fran area that is having transmission trouble with a 99 Impreza. She was quoted $2k for parts/labor to replace her tranny with a used one. This seems high based on what I think the tranny cost should be, but I don't know now much shop time is involved for the swap. (I also don't know if she has a manual and the quote includes a new clutch). Does anyone have an idea on what the book time for a transmission replacement should be? Thanks!

Replace the s with a c in forces and you're there. http://opposedforces.com/parts/

Even if you had to do all the things on the your list, your still looking at hundreds of dollars and not $10k for a 2006 car (that could still need work now, or in the near future!). I would fix it up. If you have a few tools, you can do most of that work yourself. Youtube videos, online descriptions and info posted here (and other forums) provide enough info for you to make these repairs. I'm not sure I would invest in new paint on that car unless the rust attack was minimal. Otherwise, enjoy a solid performer (mechanically) for as long as you want to and wait until your next car to have a nice paint job. +1 on the timing belt/components. You can get a kit from ebay (mizumoauto is one used by folks here, $135) with a timing belt, pulleys and a water pump. Your vintage of the engine is great because it is non-interference so a broken belt will not damage the engine, but it will leave you stranded.

The Fel-pro gaskets I got from Rock Auto seem be just fine (and looked very similar/identical to the gaskets on there...which were probably original). I think Fel-pro gaskets were available locally, but I had some other things to order so it made sense to save a few bucks as RA had the best prices for what I needed (and I wasn't pressed for time).

When I had my engine out I replaced the o-rings between the engine and that coolant crossover pipe. I did not closely examine how those hose fittings were attached to the crossover pipe, but my initial reaction is that a repair on it would be tough to do. It is probably a brazed fitting. I would think a donor replacement would be more effective in the long run.

OK for use where winter temps are "warmer." Used in a coldish place, pucks often crack.

If you did end up tackling this, Beer Garage has a nice write up (two pages!) with pics for a Legacy Outback- maybe it would have some similarities to yours. Lots of screws to remove from the looks of it. http://beergarage.com/SubyHeaterCore.aspx http://beergarage.com/SubyHeaterCore2.aspx

Many people get timing kits (belt, pulleys, water pump) from ebay (Mizumoauto is a good one for $136) or from Amazon. There are a number of dealers that sell OEM parts online, but I find the shipping is usually pretty expensive. For many Subaru parts, my best price is going to the dealer near me (maybe three miles) and having them order the part(s) and I pick up in a few days. This works 90% of the time for me when I need Subaru OEM parts. Get a Subaru thermostat or Stant Xactstat (looks just like OEM-nice and big compared to el cheapos).

What kind of supplies do you have that you can "spray propane"?! I haven't seen any cans of that at the auto parts store. Maybe you mean something else?

If you have some salvage yards near you it would be worth a trip to look for pumps. I picked up a couple last week and paid $9 each (of course, I don't know for sure if they work...but at that price I'm willing to roll the dice). Looks like online dealer parts include the entire fuel pump assembly (fuel sender unit, pump) and the cheapest I saw was just under $300. You could check www.car-part.com. Looks like there are a few yards in Idaho Falls that have some listed (Marler Auto Supply, Bonneville Auto Wrecking, Cross's Crashes) for decent prices. Bring some cash and negotiate.

I just went through this on my 2001 Civic. Same thing- wipers slapping the bottom plastic cowl below the windshield. It was broken/super worn plastic bushings in the transmission just as Fairtax suggested. I bought a used wiper transmission on ebay and that solved the problem. Although, getting the wipers to line up correctly was a real pain as there were no marks on the transmission like some of the videos I saw online. I spent way more time than I wanted trying to get the wiper cycle like it should be.

I just went through a bunch of this testing while trying to troubleshoot a problem on my '95. To check fuel: remove the fuel hose that goes from your fuel filter to the top of your engine. Remove it on the engine side (be ready with some paper towels/rags and gas will be wanting to spew out a bit. Wear some goggles/glasses as well. Get a small bottle and insert the fuel hose into it and then turn the key to the on position (no need to crank). You should get a shot of gas into the bottle (with my car it was about 1/4 cup) when the fuel pump primes. To check fuel pressure you need a fuel pressure gauge kit (can be "rented" from some auto parts stores (e.g. Autozone) for free (you pay a deposit (essentially equal to the cost of the tool) and then they refund that when you return the tool). Someone had a thread in the last few days with a photo of a fuel pressure kit hooked up. To check for spark, the simple way is to remove the spark plug boot, unscrew the plug from the cylinder head, and then put the plug back into the boot and set the plug on the engine block. You need the metal hex surface of the plug to contact the block to ground it. Have your assistant crank the engine and look for spark at the gap. There are also spark testers that plug in line between the plug wire and the plug. It could also be worth it to check that the timing belt hasn't jumped. If your timing is off, the car will turn over and not catch (don't ask me how much this happened to me recently!).

Success on starting the engine tonight. I can't understand how something like this happened, but... Fairtax's comment about how it must be the timing off or the valve seats (near zero likelihood) made me think that I should check the cam gears to see how they were reinstalled. I couldn't recall if there was a key or what to line it them with the cam shafts. I turned the timing belt/gears so that all marks were lined up. Then I removed the left cam gear, and confirmed that there is a nub on the back that matches to a notch in the cam shaft. All is good on that side. Then I removed the right cam gear and saw the nub, but then realized that the nub was not lined up with the notch in the cam shaft. I have no idea how I could do that and tight the gear down. I do recall seeing that the cam gear on that side had a slight wobble to it- just enough to make me wonder if it was there previously (I had never paid attention to it before, so I couldn't be sure). I then reinstalled the right cam gear and lined up the nub with the notch and, of course, the timing mark was not at the top, which explains why I was getting such wacky low compression readings on those two cylinders. Timing belt back in place, turn the key and vroom....lots of smoke from the gear oil in the cylinders. Quite a nice smoke show. The check engine light was on so I checked the codes and had a pile (P0201, 302, 303...plus a few more). Looks like those are all misfire and injector codes. I cleared them and they have not reappeared. I need to button up a few things but I should be test driving tomorrow. I have expanded my supply of spare parts as I acquired two salvage ignition coil packs and fuel pumps last week. Thanks for all the suggestions along the way.

I redid the timing belt again for the third time. I don't know any reason that the valve seating would have changed since it last ran before I removed the engine for resealing. I got a new DMM today and checked voltage incoming to the coil pack: 11.96 V. When cranking the incoming voltage for the coil pack is about 9.75V. I checked resistance across the coil pack. Per FSM, it says primary resistance should be 0.69 ohms +/- 10%. I was getting around 1.3 ohms (both between pins 1 and 2 and 2 and 3). Secondary resistance was OK (spec is 21.0 kohms +/- 15%).

Checked compression again today. 70, 70, 90, 120 (5 puffs per cylinder). I got another shot of gear oil in each cylinder, plugs in, connected wires and tried it. It seemed to fire for a one or two explosions like it was going to catch, but then went back to the turning over with nothing happening. Headed out of town for vacation...further north to a land of more Subarus. I'll hit a salvage yard and look for an ignition coil pack and maybe a fuel pump.

This should have been posted in the "Subaru Part/Stuff for sale" (different category in the Marketplace section).

I got a compression tester from Autozone last night. Unfortunately, the one extension piece it came with isn't long enough to clear the top of the spark plug hole, so I don't have a way to tighten it other than spinning it in with the rubber hose and trying not to get it too tight (making removal a problem). I ran it on all cylinders, although I am a bit skeptical of the results because of the inability to tighten. Pressures were (dry) 30, 60, 90, 120 psi. The 30 and 60 were on one side of the block and the 90 and 120 were on the other side. I was going to to a wet test after getting a bit of gear oil in there and then my battery ran out of juice and the skeeters were getting me so I'm charging up and going to check out wet pressures tonight. I haven't tried to figure out the pressure specs yet, but the 30 and 60 seem pretty low. No fuel pressure tester, but it looks like I can get one from Autozone.

+1 to separator plate. Also, front seals (as you already listed) might have some issues. Valve cover gaskets and valve cover bolt seals are another likely spot. My 95 seals were definitely crispy crunchy and letting some weeping oil (although nothing like the steady seepage from the separator plate that caked the tranny crossmember, power steering rack, and everything in that area). Oil pan could be another spot (although hard to know for sure because of all the other seeping around it).

When I took the plugs out tonight I can definitely smell and see some gas residue on them, so it seems like there is plenty of gas getting to the cylinder. I let things dry out for a bit (probably could have been longer) and got a shot of trans fluid in each spark plug hole. Turned the engine over for a few seconds. Installed plugs, turned it over. It felt like the engine fired once or twice like it was about to start but then it just went to turning over. Maybe I need a little more oil in there. I have to admit that getting 1/2 or whole capful of oil into each hole is trickier than I would have thought. I put up a post in the parts wanted looking for an ignition coil. Unless I can try and check out one of the other parts yards around or find a good source online that is reasonable (non OEM from Advance Auto is $100).

Mr. Beergarage did the ol' vice grips workaround for those. Although counting on that method can yield variable results...

If you do decide to replace yourself, Beergarage has a decent write up (for a 96 Outback).

I see spark, but I'm not sure if it is "enough." I only have a pretty crappy cheapo analog voltmeter, so specific voltage is not that easy to read (10v scale isn't enough, 50v doesn't give great detail). I'll get a digital so I can get a better handle on what I have at the coil during cranking. I think I mentioned somewhere above that I have no idea how old the wires are, but I could get a new set. It is just strange that everything was working before I disconnected/removed everything to take out the engine. Would it be normal for wires (or the coil) to just "go bad" like that and not show any other reduced performance? I looked for coils at the yard when I was there two weeks ago but they were already picked from the cars there. I'll have to try another spot. For squirting some oil into the cylinder: do I just put a little shot (a few drips, a little more?) in through the spark plug hole?

Looks like you can find them online (e.g. partsgeek.com for $73 looked to be the cheapest option). I'd be willing to try and grab one next run to the yard. Hardly any rust on things down here in VA.

Welcome! Tons of good info here. I learn something new every time I look at a thread! 15" Subaru rims (and others, I'm sure) will clear your calipers no problem. My '95 L came with 15" OEM alloys and had the single piston brake calipers but I replaced them (front) with the dual piston calipers (and larger rotors) that are on Outbacks (e.g. a '96 Outback) that will only fit 15" rims. To get some more height, there are tons of threads about lifting. Easiest option is to swap in Outback struts/springs. Direct bolt on for your '97 if you use Outback parts from '96-'99 (or Forester-see years in threads-->). Check out these threads here here and here.