Ravenwoods

Looks like it is located behind the battery instead of mounted on the transmission.

I'm getting ready to change my ATF fluid and watched a Youtube video to see if there is anything different about changing it in this vehicle. I was surprised to see a spin off ATF filter. So I just checked my 2005 and it does not have a spin off filter. Are there certain years the transmission came with the spin off filter? This video was done by a guy in Canada. Do Outbacks in Canada have the spin off filter and those in the US not have that option? My car has 140,000 miles on it.

The engine does turn over a few times before firing up. Perhaps a sign of lower compression? Of maybe the fuel injectors are not as good any more?

A couple weeks ago our 1998 Forester with a manual transmission turned over 333,000 miles. We bought it in 2003 with about 110,000 miles on it. A previous owner had outfitted it to be towed behind an RV and we were told that about 50,000 miles on the odometer were towing miles, so the engine had maybe 60,000 miles on it. We had the timing belt changed at about 120,000 miles on it and it was still good and was the original belt. The clutch went out at about 160,000 miles and we had it redone. The body looks like hell with lots of rust around the right rear fender. Someone drove into the Forester at some stage causing some cosmetic damage, enough for the insurance company to total it. We kept it since the cosmetic damage was rather minor. The trim that runs along the bottom below the doors on the right side was hanging so I just tore it off. The car still drives well and I replaced the timing belt and pulleys, spark plugs, and spark plug wires about a year ago. I have parked it for the winter as I now have a 2005 Outback that I got for a decent price that needed new struts and had a bad wheel bearing. I'm using the Foresters 16" alloy wheels on my 2005 Outback with some new Michelin X-Ice studless tires. The original alloy wheels that came with the Outback have summer tires on them. So I've got decent wheels for the Outback regardless of summer or winter. I'm hanging onto the old Forester as a backup car. I'm expecting visitors from Norway next summer and they could borrow that car while they are here. So I'm not sure what part of the Forester will give problems next, probably the clutch or head gaskets. We had the head gaskets redone when we had the clutch replaced. The clutch pedal does cause some problems when we have hot weather here in Fairbanks, Alaska, when it get about 85 Fahrenheit. Are there many of you who put over 300,000 miles on your Subaru? Maybe I should find another Subaru body that needs an engine and swap it out.

My 2005 Outback did something weird the other day. I started it up and the center display where you can view Outdoor Temperature, mpg, miles until your gas tank is empty, etc., just showed IGN. The headlights didn't come on and the turn signals didn't work. But the 4 way hazard flashers worked. After driving it for a couple minutes the IGN disappeared and everything was normal again. I did a google search and found a single description of the problem. It sounded like the key ignition has a problem possibly from someone having a heavy key chain putting too much weight on the key. And that Subaru had a recall on this problem. The problem has not repeated itself yet. Does anyone have information on this?

My daughter has a 2000 Legacy Wagon, Automatic Transmission, about 180,000 miles on it. When starting from a stopped position, the car starts with only the front wheels pulling, but after a second all 4 are engaged. What's causing this and how can we fix it? It's been like this for a while.

The seller has accepted my $3500 offer.

Kelly Blue Book says $2098-$3535 for a vehicle in FAIR condition. For GOOD condition up to $3900. I've been looking through the Mechanic's inspection notes from 2021 (about 135,000 miles) and he noted that the Head Gaskets were seeping and gave an estimate of $2500 to replace them. Is 2005 one of those years where Head Gaskets were a major problem? I know my 1995 Legacy seeps too but I've heard that its not a problem. Should I avoid this car because of the seeping head gaskets?

This 2005 has an automatic transmission. Mileage 140,000. Timing belt changed at 134,000 miles. The owner lived out of state and came up to Fairbanks, Alaska in the summer and drove it then. But hasn't used it hardly since about 2021. So the guy that has been keeping it for him is now selling it for him. Asking $4500. Problems: Struts are shot, rear hatch struts are shot. Right front bearing might be shot. Right front CV axle boot not attached anymore (not cracked). So we lifted the front right wheel off the ground and discovered the CV axle nut is Missing! So possibly just putting a nut on might fix it. I did give the seller an old used nut I had laying around and loaned him my 32mm socket. He loaned me all the maintenance records he has (2019-2021). Just wondering what you all think of the 2005 Outback wagon? I'm tempted to offer $3500. I don't really need a car yet. The 1998 Forest is ugly as hell (331,000 miles) but still going strong with great KYB struts and new timing belt kit from last fall, new spark plugs and wires. And I still have a 1995 Legacy I'm getting ready to replace the bad leaking seal on the front of the engine. I'd sell it after I fix that if I get the 2005 Outback.

We got a 2010 Outback last year and after not being able to find a dipstick for the Automatic Transmission, I discovered that it has a CVT, which I had never heard of before. The previous owner said he did a drain and refill of the transmission, which probably means about half of the fluid was changed. The car has 178,000 miles on it and I read on Google that a CVT has a shorter life expectancy than a regular AT. Looking for recommendations on whether I should do a flush or not? Sounds like I would need to take it to someone that has the equipment for a flush? The CVT is performing flawlessly so far. I have been doing some light trailer towing though.

This sounds like the most likely explanation. So is this spring in the passenger compartment? The temperature with air conditioning doesn't get that hot. So I'm assuming it is located at the clutch itself or in the engine compartment. You have to drive the car around for a few miles so that the engine and engine compartment get thoroughly hot. I'm not actually too interested in making a repair since We don't have too many really hot days here. The rest of the year it works normally. I did notice something interesting this morning when I got in the car and tested the clutch. The very first time I pushed it to the floor it did stay down even though the engine is cold. But after I pulled it up it worked normally again.

85 F. is about 30 C. I'm using DOT 3 brake fluid and I sucked out the fluid in the reservoir and put in new a year ago. I didn't flush the whole system. I suspect the problem is more mechanical. When I pull the clutch up it goes through some resistance, just like you do when you push the clutch pedal down. Halfway up it then pops the clutch all the way up. Its as though a spring or something gives resistance. The car has some bad rust around the right rear fender and rear door frame. So I'm not too interested in the car's longevity.

No maintenance at all. No hose replacement. A year ago I did suck out the brake fluid in the Clutch reservoir and put in new brake fluid. The clutch works normally when its not hot. It feels more like a mechanical problem like a spring or something. When you pull the clutch pedal up it goes through some resistance halfway up and then pops up all the way nicely.

It's been a year since I first posted this about the clutch problems in hot weather. I didn't do anything to maintenance the clutch since then and it has performed well in the last year and the car has 7000 more miles on it (330,000 miles now). So today we have hot weather again and I was out driving and it repeated the same problem as last year when we had temperatures up in the mid 80s here in Fairbanks, Alaska. To refresh the topic, the clutch pedal gets stuck in the down position in hot weather if you drive the car around much and the engine and clutch get hot. You have to pull it up with your foot. And it gets difficult to shift gears. So this only happens in hot weather in the mid 80s or hotter. After the engine cools down, the clutch will be normal again, based on previous experience. Just like last year I don't plan on doing anything to remedy the problem. This is a problem that happens maybe once a year. I just avoid driving it when hot. It definitely would not be a good car in the lower 48, but up here with our cold winters it seems happy.

This car has an AT and about 220,000 miles on it. When I look under the front of the car it leaks from the front pretty much center of the engine. Revving the engine speeds up the leak dramatically. I haven't had time to examine it closely up on blocks yet. Leaks about a quart of oil in 20 miles or less. I don't see anything on top of the engine leaking, so probably from under the timing belt cover. Any suggestions on the likely culprit? Can I fix it without taking the engine out?

I have an used set of 16" Forester rims, the alloy kind. Our 2010 Outback has 215/70/16 All weather tires on it, but I'm planning on getting a set of true winter tires for the better braking ability. Will the old Forester rims fit the Outback? Someone is selling some 215/60/16 winter tires. I'm assuming those will work fine.

The oil leak is so bad I had to add 1-2 quarts today after only 30-40 miles. Yesterday I put in at least 2 quarts as well. I bought another car for my wife today and now I'll drive the 98 Forester with 325,000 miles. I'll park the oil gusher until Spring or Summer before I investigate the oil leak. I'm guessing I'll have to pull the engine out.

I'm going to look at a car for sale . Automatic transmission, 170,000 miles. Sounds like he replaced the cam and crank seals. Any opinions on this car or what to look for specific to this year and model?

Sounds great. I'll plan on pulling the engine. But I still plan on getting a newer Subaru as well. Our 98 Forester is rusting out at the right back fender.

So if it is a rear main seal that needs replacing, is that a major undertaking? I've never pulled an engine. But I have done timing belts.

This car has an automatic transmission and 216,000 miles on the odometer. Just recently I started getting a strong smell of burning oil. Today I popped open the hood and smoke was coming up from the rear of the engine near the fire wall. Does this kind of leak require one to pull the engine? I'm starting to look around for a younger Subaru.

Problem has gone away with cooler weather. It only happened that one hot evening. With 323, 000 miles on it maybe the car will die soon! But the engine still seems so strong.

My wife drove it today with no issues, and it was a bit cooler today, only about 80. Yesterday I did vacuum out the old fluid in the reservoir and put in fresh. Do steel hydraulic lines rot out? We are in a low rust area so corrosion is generally not significant here. Wouldn't air in the system cause a problem even in cold weather? Wouldn't a bad slave seal allow fluid to leak out? And one would notice a drop in the fluid level? Before I vacuumed it out the fluid was still on the full line. No signs of leaks.

The "hose" is a steel hydraulic line, not a hose. Do steel lines go bad?

I'll give it a try.