Ravenwoods
-
Posts
275 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
3
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by Ravenwoods
-
-
Kelly Blue Book says $2098-$3535 for a vehicle in FAIR condition. For GOOD condition up to $3900.
I've been looking through the Mechanic's inspection notes from 2021 (about 135,000 miles) and he noted that the Head Gaskets were seeping and gave an estimate of $2500 to replace them. Is 2005 one of those years where Head Gaskets were a major problem? I know my 1995 Legacy seeps too but I've heard that its not a problem. Should I avoid this car because of the seeping head gaskets?
-
This 2005 has an automatic transmission. Mileage 140,000. Timing belt changed at 134,000 miles. The owner lived out of state and came up to Fairbanks, Alaska in the summer and drove it then. But hasn't used it hardly since about 2021. So the guy that has been keeping it for him is now selling it for him. Asking $4500. Problems: Struts are shot, rear hatch struts are shot. Right front bearing might be shot. Right front CV axle boot not attached anymore (not cracked). So we lifted the front right wheel off the ground and discovered the CV axle nut is Missing! So possibly just putting a nut on might fix it. I did give the seller an old used nut I had laying around and loaned him my 32mm socket.
He loaned me all the maintenance records he has (2019-2021).
Just wondering what you all think of the 2005 Outback wagon? I'm tempted to offer $3500. I don't really need a car yet. The 1998 Forest is ugly as hell (331,000 miles) but still going strong with great KYB struts and new timing belt kit from last fall, new spark plugs and wires. And I still have a 1995 Legacy I'm getting ready to replace the bad leaking seal on the front of the engine. I'd sell it after I fix that if I get the 2005 Outback.
-
We got a 2010 Outback last year and after not being able to find a dipstick for the Automatic Transmission, I discovered that it has a CVT, which I had never heard of before. The previous owner said he did a drain and refill of the transmission, which probably means about half of the fluid was changed. The car has 178,000 miles on it and I read on Google that a CVT has a shorter life expectancy than a regular AT. Looking for recommendations on whether I should do a flush or not? Sounds like I would need to take it to someone that has the equipment for a flush? The CVT is performing flawlessly so far. I have been doing some light trailer towing though.
-
1 hour ago, nvu said:
The pedal is has a bistable helper spring mechanism. The first half of travel the spring wants to push it back up, when you pass halfway, the spring wants to pull the pedal down. Think of an old school light switch.
Could you try pressing the clutch all the way down, then keeping it held down with a 2x4 or something. Check if the slave cyl is holding the fork down after an hour.
This sounds like the most likely explanation. So is this spring in the passenger compartment? The temperature with air conditioning doesn't get that hot. So I'm assuming it is located at the clutch itself or in the engine compartment. You have to drive the car around for a few miles so that the engine and engine compartment get thoroughly hot. I'm not actually too interested in making a repair since We don't have too many really hot days here. The rest of the year it works normally. I did notice something interesting this morning when I got in the car and tested the clutch. The very first time I pushed it to the floor it did stay down even though the engine is cold. But after I pulled it up it worked normally again.
-
7 hours ago, el_freddo said:
I can’t be bothered working out what 80°f is in Celsius, anyway, what type of brake fluid are you using in the clutch system and when was the last time it was flushed?
Also a good time to put a new flexible hose to the slave cylinder.
Cheers
Bennie
85 F. is about 30 C. I'm using DOT 3 brake fluid and I sucked out the fluid in the reservoir and put in new a year ago. I didn't flush the whole system. I suspect the problem is more mechanical. When I pull the clutch up it goes through some resistance, just like you do when you push the clutch pedal down. Halfway up it then pops the clutch all the way up. Its as though a spring or something gives resistance. The car has some bad rust around the right rear fender and rear door frame. So I'm not too interested in the car's longevity.
-
1
-
-
11 hours ago, lmdew said:
Clutch hose replaced? System air free?
No maintenance at all. No hose replacement. A year ago I did suck out the brake fluid in the Clutch reservoir and put in new brake fluid. The clutch works normally when its not hot. It feels more like a mechanical problem like a spring or something. When you pull the clutch pedal up it goes through some resistance halfway up and then pops up all the way nicely.
-
It's been a year since I first posted this about the clutch problems in hot weather. I didn't do anything to maintenance the clutch since then and it has performed well in the last year and the car has 7000 more miles on it (330,000 miles now). So today we have hot weather again and I was out driving and it repeated the same problem as last year when we had temperatures up in the mid 80s here in Fairbanks, Alaska. To refresh the topic, the clutch pedal gets stuck in the down position in hot weather if you drive the car around much and the engine and clutch get hot. You have to pull it up with your foot. And it gets difficult to shift gears. So this only happens in hot weather in the mid 80s or hotter. After the engine cools down, the clutch will be normal again, based on previous experience. Just like last year I don't plan on doing anything to remedy the problem. This is a problem that happens maybe once a year. I just avoid driving it when hot. It definitely would not be a good car in the lower 48, but up here with our cold winters it seems happy.
-
This car has an AT and about 220,000 miles on it. When I look under the front of the car it leaks from the front pretty much center of the engine. Revving the engine speeds up the leak dramatically. I haven't had time to examine it closely up on blocks yet. Leaks about a quart of oil in 20 miles or less. I don't see anything on top of the engine leaking, so probably from under the timing belt cover. Any suggestions on the likely culprit? Can I fix it without taking the engine out?
-
I have an used set of 16" Forester rims, the alloy kind. Our 2010 Outback has 215/70/16 All weather tires on it, but I'm planning on getting a set of true winter tires for the better braking ability. Will the old Forester rims fit the Outback? Someone is selling some 215/60/16 winter tires. I'm assuming those will work fine.
-
The oil leak is so bad I had to add 1-2 quarts today after only 30-40 miles. Yesterday I put in at least 2 quarts as well. I bought another car for my wife today and now I'll drive the 98 Forester with 325,000 miles. I'll park the oil gusher until Spring or Summer before I investigate the oil leak. I'm guessing I'll have to pull the engine out.
-
I'm going to look at a car for sale . Automatic transmission, 170,000 miles. Sounds like he replaced the cam and crank seals. Any opinions on this car or what to look for specific to this year and model?
-
Sounds great. I'll plan on pulling the engine. But I still plan on getting a newer Subaru as well. Our 98 Forester is rusting out at the right back fender.
-
So if it is a rear main seal that needs replacing, is that a major undertaking? I've never pulled an engine. But I have done timing belts.
-
This car has an automatic transmission and 216,000 miles on the odometer.
Just recently I started getting a strong smell of burning oil. Today I popped open the hood and smoke was coming up from the rear of the engine near the fire wall.
Does this kind of leak require one to pull the engine? I'm starting to look around for a younger Subaru.
-
Problem has gone away with cooler weather. It only happened that one hot evening. With 323, 000 miles on it maybe the car will die soon! But the engine still seems so strong.
-
1 hour ago, nvu said:
Be careful adjusting the hydraulic clutch pedal. The master cylinder rod needs to fully release when the clutch is all the way up. There's a tiny hole in the master piston that releases pressure when it's all the way released. This is to account for temperature changes and expansion. When the clutch pedal is fully up, there should be some play in the pin connecting the pedal to the master cyl rod.
There's a spring in the slave cylinder that takes up the slack. There's no pretensioning to adjust over time like cable clutches, the spring in the slave cyl self adjusts after every press and release.
It sounds like either there's air in the system from a bad slave seal or the hose is rotting out. Also could be cracked clutch fork.
My wife drove it today with no issues, and it was a bit cooler today, only about 80. Yesterday I did vacuum out the old fluid in the reservoir and put in fresh. Do steel hydraulic lines rot out? We are in a low rust area so corrosion is generally not significant here. Wouldn't air in the system cause a problem even in cold weather? Wouldn't a bad slave seal allow fluid to leak out? And one would notice a drop in the fluid level? Before I vacuumed it out the fluid was still on the full line. No signs of leaks.
-
7 hours ago, Ravenwoods said:
I'll give it a try.
The "hose" is a steel hydraulic line, not a hose. Do steel lines go bad?
-
10 hours ago, lmdew said:
New hose and brake fluid. Bleed it wall after the hose change.
I'll give it a try.
-
13 minutes ago, forester2002s said:
I'm not familiar with a 1998. But if it has a hydraulic-actuated clutch, then the slave-cylinder may need replacing (located at the top-rear of the engine-block).
If it's cable-actuated, maybe the cable is sticking.
It does have the hydraulic clutch with brake fluid in it.
-
We have a Forester S with 323,000 miles on it, and looks like it too. But the engine is still strong, doesn't seem to burn oil, but of course leaks oil.
New clutch put in about 150,000-160,000 Miles ago.
So the clutch is still strong. In past summers when we had lots of temps in the mid 80s or higher the clutch pedal would act strange. You could push it down but then need to pull it up again with your foot. So this only happens in hot weather and after the car has been driven a awhile and all the parts in the clutch system are thoroughly hot. So yesterday was one of those days but this time it was worse. Almost impossible to get it into any gear when the car is stationary. Once you get moving then you can manage.
And of course today when the car has cooled down the clutch is back to normal.
So there must be some need to make a clutch adjustment. When you have to pull the pedal back up, you can feel that a spring somewhere gives resistance about half way up the pedal stroke, then decreases after that point. It is almost like you have exceeded the springs correct depression.
Any suggestions on what to do?
-
On 4/28/2023 at 2:03 AM, lmdew said:
Hopefully Dad has an OBDII reader for her and has taught her how to use it. Easy to clear.
So sounds like the best approach is to ignore it?
-
On 4/27/2023 at 9:50 AM, 1 Lucky Texan said:
6 cyl or 4cyl?
scan for and make note of any other codes including 'pending' codes. Clear the codes and see how quickly the P0420 comes back and any other codes as well.
many people jump to changing the cat conv (and of course they do go bad) but, that code can be caused by exhaust leaks, vacuum leaks or bad wiring. The code on the 4 cylinder cars is only a 'nanny' code intending to monitor cat efficiency but is NOT used to alter any air:fuel ratios or other operating parameters.
Its a 4 cylinder 2.5 liter.
-
My daughter drives the car only for short trips. I suspect some of the problem is she never takes long road trips. I borrowed the car last month to take a 140 mile trip to test drive the car. No check engine light the whole day. But as soon as she started driving it again the light has been on the whole time.
-
6 hours ago, Ferret54 said:
When we had this code on our daughters 2001 Outback ( 2.5L ), it was 10 years old. No exhaust leaks. Tried rear Oxygen sensor, still P0420. So I purchased an extender. Had to drill out the center for the Oxygen sensor to fit, then installed it. Takes rear sensor out of the flow. No more P0420. It was still on the car when we sold it 2 years later.
I have no idea what an extender is.
Opinions on 2005 Outback? Looking to buy
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
The seller has accepted my $3500 offer.